problems getting my water balanced

[tpell40]

Hello everyone, I am new to the site and have been reading different posts for over an hour and still have questions. I have an above ground pool, 15 x 42...just a basic from Walmart. last year we used a salt water system and didn't have a lot of problems, this year the SWG is not working. I have spent a ton on chemicals in the last month and have drained the pool and started over and still having problems.
We had the pool balanced and 2 days later it was green. I tested the water with multi use smart strips (yes I know cheap strips, had no idea about other testers) and I adjusted the pool according to the Clorox pool and spa recommendations. Which suggested I use green algae eliminator and a water clarifier. It was still green 2 days later so I shocked the pool with Clorox pool and spa xtra blue. The water is now cloudy and is testing at a 10 for total chlorine and a 10 for FC, and the PH is 6.8, with alkalinity registering 40 (the strips says 120 is normal range). Let me also say I am on city water so we have chlorine already in our water.
All the chemicals I have on hand are
Pure baking soda (12 lb bag)
Clorox pool and spa xtra blue shock
My salt pool salt water stabilizer
my salt pool PH reducer
alkalinity increaser
green algae eliminator and water clarifier.
and Clorox
can I use any of the huge bottles of the salt water chemicals I purchased last summer, although I am no longer using a salt water system? I also want to start switching over to the BBB method. Anything easier and safer!
I know I need to get my PH and Alkalinity up and the chlorine down. I know the sun will help reduce my chlorine today since it will be 100 here today.
Thank you for all the help, my girls have been begging for a month to swim.

 

[gqjeff]

whats the CYA? If its not present the sun will be killing that chlorine!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Here's a few things to get you started (you'll hear much more):
Priority #1 - TF-100 test kit! The proper test kit is everything. Why? Because we've all learned (from personal experience) you cannot reply on pool store tests, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They don't read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need.

#2 - Golden rule - Avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process. The following are short articles from this site that you will see linked in my signature below: Pool School, Recommended Levels (for YOUR pool), PoolMath Calculator, SLAM, and the Chlorine/CYA Chart.

#3 - At this point, only rely on regular liquid bleach as your chlorine agent. Other products have potential side effects.

#4 - You need CYA (stabilizer) If this water is brand new, then start getting some in ASAP. Use the Poolmth calculator in my link below to help.

Until you get the test kit, everything is a guess. But cloudiness or green indicates algae, so you might want to read-up on the "SLAM" link below.

Great to have you with us!

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!!

Your first step is ordering a test kit, the strips are worthless. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. Yo need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

The test kit may seem like a lot of money, but it will be the best money spent on the pool.

5,000 gallons is the cut off point in our recommendations. Less than that and it's probably less expensinve to just dump the water and start right form the beginning. Over 5,000 gallons it is probably less expensive to clear it up with chlorine.

 

[tpell40]

Thank you all. I have ordered the TF100 as suggested and am replacing the water. Hope to get it fixed correctly this time because city water is not cheap.

 

[Patrick_B]

Good deal, and welcome to TFP!!