Alkalinity
- Thread starter melody.boutz
- Start date
Baking soda will raise Alkalinity. Without affecting PH so much.
Full test results would help diagnose if that is what you need and don't need to raise PH as well?
Full test results would help diagnose if that is what you need and don't need to raise PH as well?
No. I just would need the alkalinity raised.
Today the ph was at 6.5 so I added some chlorox ph up.
My water is very clear and clean looking so I'm not too over worried. I just couldn't remember if it was baking soda or borax.
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Today the ph was at 6.5 so I added some chlorox ph up.
My water is very clear and clean looking so I'm not too over worried. I just couldn't remember if it was baking soda or borax.
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OK here's the full test. I had to redo cuz I had forgotten what the exact numbers were.
Acid demand was determined using this chart and I had a little trouble but got it as close as possible.
Thus was all determined by using poolmaster 5-way test kit
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The acid demand test isn't necessarily required. I understand it can help if you find color matching on the PH test challenging. With a PH of 7.4 and TA of 80 you shouldn't need to add any muratic acid unless your PH continues to rise.
What is concerning about that test is CL is 2 and CC is 2 but you didn't post you CYA level. That is a key number you need to know to determine where your choline needs to be. CC of 2 indicates you may have algea in your pool.
How does the water look?
What is concerning about that test is CL is 2 and CC is 2 but you didn't post you CYA level. That is a key number you need to know to determine where your choline needs to be. CC of 2 indicates you may have algea in your pool.
How does the water look?
Additionally, you do not need to raise TA. It will/did come up when you raised pH.
Please read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It'll strengthen your chem knowledge a lot.
As Aimee said, your chlorine is too low and your CC's are too high. Report your CYA and tell us what your water looks like.
Oops, I see now you reported your water as very clear.....Thanks! CYA?
Please read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It'll strengthen your chem knowledge a lot.
As Aimee said, your chlorine is too low and your CC's are too high. Report your CYA and tell us what your water looks like.
Oops, I see now you reported your water as very clear.....Thanks! CYA?
Agreed on all counts here. TA is fine, I would raise PH with Borax if needed. Chlorine is low and CC indicates that you have some algae growing. Keep at least 3-4 ppm chlorine in there. Check CYA and we will advise next steps. You will need to set chlorine level based on CYA level on the Chlorine CYA Chart
Here is a little reading material
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
And just in case
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Here is a little reading material
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
And just in case
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
The water is beautiful.
This test didn't come with a cya. It's a 5 way test from pool master. Should I get the chlorine test?
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According to the first article, it says use a solid cya or conditioner to raise it. I never added a conditioner to the water at all so it may test kinda low.
I don't have a way to test cya right now but in raising fc and cc...
I have 2 chlorine floaters, currently using one in the pool which I always keep filled to the top with 3" tablets. I could add the 2nd floater to the water filling it with tabs as well.
I could throw in another bag of shock this evening. I have both chlorox and in the swim shocks. Both are chlorine based. I usually shock every Wednesday but if necessary I could do it today no big deal.
My pool gets direct sunlight pretty much all day long. The pool feels much like a warm bath water. I read that sunlight has to do with amount of available chlorine.
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- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Perhaps you might consider the Trouble Free Pool Care Method as an alternative to your weekly shock and chlorinate routine....it will make your life a lot easier and it will be cheaper in the end.
Considering you are shocking weekly and adding lots of pucks to your floater, I'm going to guess that your water has lots of CYA (Cyanuric Acid, also called stabilizer or conditioner) in it. Eventually your CYA is going to get so high that the chlorine in the pool will be unable to fight off algae. At that point your water is going to go cloudy and green.
Take the advice of the tens of thousands of people here - give the TFPC Method a shot, I'm confident you will not regret the switch.
The Taylor kit that includes a test for cya is $53 on eBay. (Taylor K-2006)
Any other recommendations for cya test? Thanks
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- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you're comfortable with getting stuff on eBay, I guess so. I bought my K-2006 on Amazon. eBay always worries me with getting second hand stuff. Many of the Taylor chemical reagents are only good for 2 years before they expire and that is based on optimal storage conditions. If you can't certify that this kit on eBay is original and was stored properly, you could get a batch of bad chemicals.
I'd recommend you check out TFTestKits.net and look at their TF-100 which is just like the K-2006 but contains different amounts of reagents for the tests you are most likely to perform the most (FC/CC, CYA, TA, pH). Or, if you're skeptical, then get the Taylor kit off Amazon where you're more likely to get it in original condition.
Just my $0.02 opinion...
I see your point in that. I have bought things from the seller on eBay. Vminnivations. They're the ppl I also bought my pool from them and some other things. They have sent me new and good quality things
But I'll check this link. It would be nice to get it a little cheaper.
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I highly recommend and use the TF100 from tftestkits.net. it will last longer and give you more tests in the long run than the k2006.
see this Pool School - Test Kits Compared
see this Pool School - Test Kits Compared
Yah I checked into it. No one else even had the tf100
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I'm pretty sure that's because the owner of this website are the people who make the TF-100 and are the sole source for this kit...I believe TF stands for troublefree....maybe I'm making a correlation out of a coincidence, but that is my observation.
Yah I think your right about tf being trouble free. What you said also explains the reason for my not being able to find it elsewhere. I was glad to get the site and have one ordered soon.
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Welcome to the forum! The people here are so helpful! I agree that you read up on the TFP 'method. It will save you time and trouble.
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- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,761
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
While waiting for your new test kit, I suggest you spend some time in Pool School. It's the button at the upper right of this page. Read, re read, and study. Everything you need to know is spelled out. It may seem a bit overwhelming and complex at first, but it will gradually all make sense. One other thing you need to know, stay out of pool stores and ignore any water test or advice from there. It just wastes your time and money. Everything you need to know about pool care is right here, ask any of the thousands of people who have found the site.
Any questions you ever have, just post them and there is always someone here who will be happy to give you the answer. And my experience is that the answers are from THE experts in pool care.
Any questions you ever have, just post them and there is always someone here who will be happy to give you the answer. And my experience is that the answers are from THE experts in pool care.
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