Who do I trust? Me or the pool store?

QQQ

0
Mar 9, 2015
29
Missoula/MT
When I test with my taylor "basic" test kit it shows plenty of chlorine - 3 +. PH 7.5.

When I test with TF kit, My Free chlorine is usually about one or two and CC trace or none. My TA is about 190, cyn currently about 40 and going up with sock method.

Anyway I was going by the pool store and they, alarmingly, had my PH at less than 6.6. Total chlorine at .6 and free at .1. They also think my total hardness is low. it probably is as I can find any calcium in the pool. Pool store also shows TA at 90. Which seems odd.

So, I find the PH most alarming. I have tested several times with basic kit and it is always ok. But it also shows plenty of chlorine when it is actually a bit low.

I am most concerned about my ph. It also seems ok with a test strip. Any thoughts? Is the pool store incorrect? Can I trust my PH ?

Thank you!

QQQ
 
Current readings. Taylor test PH 7.5. TFTEST FC = 1. CC = 0. TA 190 CYA 40 ish + Calciium harness 0.

Mostly concerned about the PH. I don't know how the pool store could screw that up that much! Water is clear and feels good.
 
QQQ, I would most certainly go with your own readings first. Although you said you are concerned with PH for right now, if I were you, I would be equally concerned with FC if not more. That's what is going to let algae in your pool. It's quite low according to your reading. But remember you must have either the TF-100 or Taylor K2006 kit to accurately read your FC and/CYA. Those are critical. Just so you can see, take a look at the Chlorine/CYA chart (link) below and look at what your FC "should" be compared to the current CYA. If you still need assistance, let us know.
 
And how much would it cost to fix all your problems using the chemicals they so conveniently stock?

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Current readings. Taylor test PH 7.5. TFTEST FC = 1. CC = 0. TA 190 CYA 40 ish + Calciium harness 0.

Mostly concerned about the PH. I don't know how the pool store could screw that up that much! Water is clear and feels good.

Your FC is dangerously LOW. Your target FC should be 4ppm and should NEVER dip below 2ppm (these ranges will go up as your CYA increases to the recommended range of 60-80ppm). You need to get some bleach in that water now or else you're risking an algae bloom.

Your pH is fine for now. Anything between 7.4-7.8 is perfectly normal.

Pool store test results scale proportionately with monthly sales quotas .... When they need more revenue, your numbers will be worse :p


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I have my FC up to 4. We will see if it holds tonight. SWG seems to be having problems keeping up even though I have 'green' lights steady on my pentair ic20. When I test with the basic taylor test it is usually fine. When I test with the TF100 it is 1 or 2 typically when I read much higher on the "basic" test. I do not have any CC (or just a trace) but it has been crazy sunny and my CYA is low. But CYA is getting higher as sock is about empty. I wonder what could make the PH readings so different? Water 'feels" good and eyes are not red.
 
I have my FC up to 4. We will see if it holds tonight. SWG seems to be having problems keeping up even though I have 'green' lights steady on my pentair ic20. When I test with the basic taylor test it is usually fine. When I test with the TF100 it is 1 or 2 typically when I read much higher on the "basic" test. I do not have any CC (or just a trace) but it has been crazy sunny and my CYA is low. But CYA is getting higher as sock is about empty. I wonder what could make the PH readings so different? Water 'feels" good and eyes are not red.

Assuming your Tf100 reagents are still good depending on how old it is, I would trust the TF100 readings. That kit is very reliable (once you get used to testing:rolleyes:). And if not mentioned before, once you add stabilizer wait a week before retesting it. It takes that long to fully register. As far as using pool math to calculate your chlorine levels, what ever amount you put in to raise CYA, go ahead and enter that level in the calculator to get the correct amount of chlorine to add.

As far as why PH readings very so much between you and the pool store, Richard320s' post hit it right on the mark :deal:
 
Your running your CYA way too low for an SWCG. TFP recommends 60-80ppm so you can get maximum sun protection for your FC as well as other benefits for the cell chemistry itself. I can't run my CYA less than 50ppm or else my cell on time has to go up to 60-80% to keep the FC up. With 70ppm CYA and 50ppm borates, I can keep my FC at the right level with only 40% on-time on the cell.

Once you get your chemistry better dialed in, you can then tweak your SWCG settings.

Also, you may want to perform an OCLT to see if you have anything about ready to bloom. I definitely had a situation once where I had to run the cell hard to keep the FC up even though I was not seeing significant CCs. CCs are a nice early warning indicator but they are not always present when you're in the verge of an algae bloom. Just a personal anecdote so take it for what it's worth.


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