Help with chemicals

grottoguy

0
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 24, 2014
478
NJ
They filled our pool last Friday and just yesterday they came out and added salt and started our SWG. Our pool was cloudy so they added two chlorine pucks (one in each skimmer) and added five bags of what they called Chlorine shock. Each bag was about 8 inches by 6 inches (im guestimating). He also put in 25 pounds of PH minus. From here on in, they will come out each week to clean the pool and filters, etc, but I would like to take over the chemicals. We set the SWG at 60% and am running the filter pump 12 hours a day, although we ran the pump an adduitional 12 hours yesterday to circulate the chemicals added. (I know not to use Chlorine pucks any more.)

We tested (using the TFT test kit) our water this morning and got the following results:

PH 8.2; CL 5; FC 8.5; CYA 65; TA 100, and CA 175

I plan to adjust chemicals each evening and am wondering if I should start adjusting or wait a day or so to see what develops from what was added yesterday.

Thanks
 
Some initial feedback for the readings provided:
PH - should be 7.5 - 7.8 Suggest lowering soon
CL - (?) is this supposed to be "CC" Combined Chlorine? If so, it should not be over .5
FC - Fine based on a matching CYA of 70 (rounded up)
CYA - almost to your target for an SWG (70-80)
TA - fine
CA - Perhaps "CH" Calcium Hardness? recommended 250-350; might depend on age of your pool/plaster (is it new)

- - - Updated - - -

Okay, then definitely take the chemicals slow! Please review this page: Pool School - Start-up New Plaster


It is important to follow your builder's instructions and those you see on this page since your plaster needs to cure. Pay special attention to when you can add CYA and chlorine. If your PB has already added based on their recommendation, then you can discuss any concerns with them. But the page/link provided does have some good info for you.
 
First, call the builder. Tell him the pH is high and ask if it's okay to adjust it. Note the time and date and who you spoke to. Or text message or email so it's timestamped. If there's any warranty issues, you want it on him.

As an aside, when you do the FAS-DPD test, you don't need to bother with the coilormatching chlorine test. You can see from your results that they don't match.

The rest is okay. CYA might still rise a little because it takes a few days to completely register for some odd reason.
 
Some initial feedback for the readings provided:
PH - should be 7.5 - 7.8 Suggest lowering soon
CL - (?) is this supposed to be "CC" Combined Chlorine? If so, it should not be over .5
FC - Fine based on a matching CYA of 70 (rounded up)
CYA - almost to your target for an SWG (70-80)
TA - fine
CA - Perhaps "CH" Calcium Hardness? recommended 250-350; might depend on age of your pool/plaster (is it new)
I'm going to guess that the FC is a reading using the FAS/DPD chlorine test no the CL is the OTO chlorine test. As FC is 8.5 the OTO test would be maxed out at 5.

Grottoguy can confirm is I am correct.

If so you will need to use muratic acid to bring the pH in line as Pat suggests.

Did the pool builder give you any recommendations for chemistry to maintain your warranty? I don't want to begin making suggestions that may be contrary to your warranty requirements.
 
My wife did the testing so I will need to confirm with her when she comes home what she meant by those numbers.

MY PB has no recommendations whatsoever. When they were here yesterday, his service guy told me he was going to just turn on the SWG and not add any Chlorine. That didn't make sense to me as the pool was cloudy, so he agreed to add the Chlorine. In addition when he added PH minus he didnt do any calculation to figure out what to add - he just randomly picked an amount and told us conflicting things about how he picked that amount. They haven't told me anything about chemicals affecting the warranty, but their standard contract states that improper maintenance can void the warranty.

Thanks

He wasn't even going to turn on ther SWG after he hooked it up becasue eh said he was not familiar with this brand (they generally use a different brand but I asked for the AutoPilot Digital).
 
The test that was 5.0 was the total chlorine test in the tf100 test kit. We added five drops of r-0600. I added 56 ounces of miriatic acid I picked up from Leslie pools today.
Since the builder doesn't seem to care, you're going to have to. You're the guy who will be stuck with the end results for years and years. Keep the pH in check.
 

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The test that was 5.0 was the total chlorine test in the tf100 test kit. We added five drops of r-0600. I added 56 ounces of miriatic acid I picked up from Leslie pools today.
just as an aside, the acid is probably less expensive at Lowes. Sometimes the pool store pricing is not bad, but around here I've found I save money at the big box stores.
 
just as an aside, the acid is probably less expensive at Lowes. Sometimes the pool store pricing is not bad, but around here I've found I save money at the big box stores.

Thanks. I'll be watching PH every day. I got acidi at Home Depot initially but it was a type thread said not to use because it didn't say the percentage on the bottle so I went over to Leslie's
 
Thanks. I'll be watching PH every day. I got acidi at Home Depot initially but it was a type thread said not to use because it didn't say the percentage on the bottle so I went over to Leslie's
does Leslie's show the level/baume? Lowes has both the low strength Lo Fume (green label) and the full strength (blue label) in the paint department.
 
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