Stenner pump and wiring dilemma

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skimmerswimmer

Well-known member
Jul 30, 2013
520
Long Island, NY
So...I've been reading a lot of the Stenner posts and researching my options, but I'm still trying to figure out what my best option is. I've got a few issues to work through on my setup, so who better to ask than you guys?

I have 230v at the main pump, but it's on a timer located in my basement next to the main breaker panel. The circuit is only live about 12 hours per day. If I purchased an adjustable Stenner pump and added an outlet on the same line, I could adjust the injection pump as needed for proper dosing, but that leads to my first problem...Stenner apparently doesn't make an adjustable 230v pump that does not click continuously if it is at anything less than 100%. Can't have that clicking (wife vetoed it...and I agree), so I need to find another option.

I have a 115v line available about 40 ft away from my pool equipment, so it may be possible to run conduit and extend the power to my pool equipment, then purchase a Stenner 115V pump with the programmable timer built in, like this one:
http://www.uswatersystems.com/stenner-econ-t-dosing-pump-e10t.html , though I have no idea what this will cost me. I've contacted an electrician but I've not heard back yet.

Another option would be getting a fixed rate 230v pump, adding an outlet to the existing pool pump line, and then adding a mechanical timer to try to adjust dosing with the on/off tabs. The problem with this is the timer would only get power 12 hours a day (since the whole line is on a timer in the basement), so it would only make it halfway around the dial. This would make setting the dosage time even trickier and adjustments would not be easy either.

I really like the idea of getting rid of the Hayward Chlorinator and not having to worry about rising CYA levels, but I need to find a practical solution. I thought about running a long extension cord from the 115 outlet but the wife doesn't think it will be safe enough. She's probably right. Anyone see any other options?
 
You could run 220v to an intermatic et1125... It's a digital timer with battery backup... You can also power the timer itself from its own 220 breaker and feed the outputs from the pumps timer if that makes sense...
 
You have several options:

(1) Running a 120 line to an ET-1105CR 40 feet should not be too expensive (I had a 60A 220V subpanel run 150 feet in thick wall metal conduit from my main panel at a cost of $1200 - a 120V line 40 feet in PVC should be much less). Attach a 120 v outlet in a weather tight box to the ET-1105CR. Plug a 120 V Stenner into the 120 V outlet and control the dosing with the digital timer.

(2) Tap off the pump line to an ET-1125CR. Attach a 220V outlet in a weather tight box to the ET-1125CR. Plug a 220 V Stenner to the 220V outlet and control the dosing with the digital timer. What I don't know is how long the batteries will last in the ET-1125 with power available only 50% of the time.

In my opinion, number 1 is the preferred option - timer about $50 less and power available 100% of the time.
 
You could use an interval timer. It would connect to the main pump power line and allow the Stenner to run a set number of minutes whenever the main pump comes on. That way you wouldn't have to run a separate line for the injection pump.

Here are a few from Grainger that would work.

If it were me, I'd pick the THR-3856U and set it up for delayed interval and set the delay for a few seconds and then the interval to whatever is needed to maintain the FC.
 
Bama Rambler said:
You could use an interval timer. It would connect to the main pump power line and allow the Stenner to run a set number of minutes whenever the main pump comes on. That way you wouldn't have to run a separate line for the injection pump.

Here are a few from Grainger that would work.

If it were me, I'd pick the THR-3856U and set it up for delayed interval and set the delay for a few seconds and then the interval to whatever is needed to maintain the FC.
Click to expand...

Its amazing the devices that you can find being manufactured - an elegant option to tie dosing to the pump on time. The only thing I don't like about it is for a residential application, anytime you need to adjust the dose, you need to shut power off since you have hot connections near the adjustment switches.
 
garyengr said:
You have several options:

(1) Running a 120 line to an ET-1105CR 40 feet should not be too expensive (I had a 60A 220V subpanel run 150 feet in thick wall metal conduit from my main panel at a cost of $1200 - a 120V line 40 feet in PVC should be much less). Attach a 120 v outlet in a weather tight box to the ET-1105CR. Plug a 120 V Stenner into the 120 V outlet and control the dosing with the digital timer.

(2) Tap off the pump line to an ET-1125CR. Attach a 220V outlet in a weather tight box to the ET-1125CR. Plug a 220 V Stenner to the 220V outlet and control the dosing with the digital timer. What I don't know is how long the batteries will last in the ET-1125 with power available only 50% of the time.

In my opinion, number 1 is the preferred option - timer about $50 less and power available 100% of the time.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of #2...my understanding is that the ET1125CR can control two loads independently and on different timers, so in theory, I could set the mechanical timer in the basement to always on, then at the equipment pad, install one of these, with the two outputs going to two separate outlets, one for the pool pump and one for a fixed rate 230v Stenner pump. This would avoid having to run any more conduit and would also not drain the batteries since the power is always being supplied to the unit. Am I missing something?
 
I recently ran 120v flex conduit about 50 feet and it cost me $80 including wire, flex and insulated box ( Home Depot ). The hard part for you will be digging the trench, pool builder had mine already dug for the plumbing:) This way you have continous power. I did not see in your sig, do you have pool automation?
 
rphpool said:
I recently ran 120v flex conduit about 50 feet and it cost me $80 including wire, flex and insulated box ( Home Depot ). The hard part for you will be digging the trench, pool builder had mine already dug for the plumbing:) This way you have continous power. I did not see in your sig, do you have pool automation?
Click to expand...

Nope..no automation. It would be so cool if Stenner made a 230v adjustable pump that did not click, that would solve all my problems, simple add a double outlet to the existing box and adjust as needed. I think they need to introduce a nice quiet dc or stepper motor design in their offering with switchable 115/230 input voltage and built-in power supply.
 
skimmerswimmer said:
I like the idea of #2...my understanding is that the ET1125CR can control two loads independently and on different timers, so in theory, I could set the mechanical timer in the basement to always on, then at the equipment pad, install one of these, with the two outputs going to two separate outlets, one for the pool pump and one for a fixed rate 230v Stenner pump. This would avoid having to run any more conduit and would also not drain the batteries since the power is always being supplied to the unit. Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

No, that is an excellent idea. Only negative is the pumps would also have a hot line to them even when off. You would need to remember to shut off the mechanical timer in the basement or flip the breaker before doing any work on the electrical (should do this anyway - but occasionally I rely on the switch to remove power from an outlet).
 

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garyengr said:
No, that is an excellent idea. Only negative is the pumps would also have a hot line to them even when off. You would need to remember to shut off the mechanical timer in the basement or flip the breaker before doing any work on the electrical (should do this anyway - but occasionally I rely on the switch to remove power from an outlet).
Click to expand...

I just met with an electrician at lunchtime and he looked at all the options and said that the 115v accessory outlets near the pool are all 14 GA wire, so he can't legally extend them in new conduit to run pool equipment without changing to 12 GA. He also looked at the 230v feed to the pool area and it was run in 1/2" pvc conduit and is also 14 GA wire and is not even on a GFI breaker. He said the best option is to run new 12 GA wire through the existing conduit from the breaker panel using the existing wires as a pull line with enough wires for both a 230v outlet and separate 115v outlet. Keep the pool pump on the 230v line and add an always-on outlet for the 115V line, then connect the programmable E10T 115v Stenner pump to that line. Said the job would cost about $600. Not sure what I want to do now....seems a bit expensive.
 
If that includes all parts (ET-1125CR, outlets, weather tight boxs and covers, GFI, and wires) and the the number of 90 deg bends are less than 4 and run is short, then price might be high. If runs long or there are the equivalent of 4 90 deg bends, pulling 5 12 ga wires through the PVC could be difficult and he would earn his fee. Suggest you get a couple of more estimates.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and purchased the Intermatic ET1125CR timer, 220v 45MPHP10 Stenner Pump and the 15 gallon gray tank. Electrician is coming on Monday to do the install. I also purchased 14 gallons of bleach from Walmart (free delivery on orders over $50) which should be here by Friday. We'll install a new 4x6 post and mount the timer, two outlets and a kill switch in the existing location where the lines comes out of the ground. Hopefully I can get it all set up by the middle of next week.

I think I still have a 50lb bucket of tabs unopened. Wonder if I can sell it locally for a few bucks.
 
skimmerswimmer said:
Well, I pulled the trigger and purchased the Intermatic ET1125CR timer, 220v 45MPHP10 Stenner Pump and the 15 gallon gray tank. Electrician is coming on Monday to do the install. I also purchased 14 gallons of bleach from Walmart (free delivery on orders over $50) which should be here by Friday. We'll install a new 4x6 post and mount the timer, two outlets and a kill switch in the existing location where the lines comes out of the ground. Hopefully I can get it all set up by the middle of next week.

I think I still have a 50lb bucket of tabs unopened. Wonder if I can sell it locally for a few bucks.
Click to expand...

I also have a bucket nearly full plus a nearly full box of shock (24 1 lb bags). Keep the tabs for that time when your CYA is low.
 
Yep using my extra pucks now since all the rain diluted and went to the overflow. CYA and pH went crazy. Pucks have the pH back and slowly getting CYA back. BUT then came Tropical Storm Bill, here we go again. Never thought I would say STOP RAINING ALLREADY!!!!!!!!!!
 
rphpool said:
Yep using my extra pucks now since all the rain diluted and went to the overflow. CYA and pH went crazy. Pucks have the pH back and slowly getting CYA back. BUT then came Tropical Storm Bill, here we go again. Never thought I would say STOP RAINING ALLREADY!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Ship it all to Tucson!!! 107 today, pool up to 85 and little rain in sight.
 
I had the ET1125CR installed yesterday and I received the Stenner pump and 15 gallon tank today. I also bought one of those poolskim devices and the TF-100 test kit with the speedstir. Everything seems to be working really well. I set the Stenner pump on a schedule for 15 minutes in the morning, 30 minutes at lunchtime and 30 minutes in the early evening, starting tomorrow, so I'll be checking the chlorine levels every night for the next week or so to dial it in as best I can. I took my first TF-100 readings tonight and compared them to the Lamotte ColorQ pro kit. This is my first time with the TF-100 kit and some of the readings were quite different between the kits, namely chlorine and CH.

ColorQ - FCL 5.88, TCL 5.96, PH 7.4, ALK 76, CH 222, CYA 59
TF-100 - FCL 8.0, TCL 8.0, PH 7.5, ALK 90, CH 375, CYA 45

Lighting was not great since it is evening so can't be sure about the CYA reading on the TF-100. I'm surprised by the chlorine and the CH results. Will have to do a bunch of parallel testing over the next week and see if the readings are consistently off in a similar way. I'll also need the wife to check the color changes next time since I have trouble with lighter shades of some colors.

The poolskim device is extremely effective...first time ever coming home from work and not seeing a pool full of floating leaves, pollen, etc. Whoever designed that thing must be rich by now.
 

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