how hard is it to replace flex pipe from pump to filter?

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C

ChewBiscuit

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Jul 25, 2013
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Here's a pic of my flex pipe from my pump to filter:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/bledthemultitude/Mobile%20Uploads/20140710_185436.jpg

That smaller segment between the pump and that fitting has a small hole in it squirting a small stream of water. I read somewhere on here that it's just best to replace them when that happens. How challenging would you say replacing that is to someone who hasn't done it before?

Is this all that needs to be done?

1. Turn off pump, open the basket lid to let pressure out. (or do I need to completely drain it?)
2. Unscrew fittings, take to hardware store to get a similar length piece and fittings, and some glue. (or reuse fittings?)
3. Glue, screw fittings together, and let sit for a day. (or shorter?)
4. Prime pump, fire it up.

I'd like to DIY it as this piece has been replaced every year I've had this pool. Getting tired of paying the pool guy top dollar to come repair what "seems" like a simple fix, but again I have never done it before, my plumbing experience is limited to garbage disposals and sink faucets / traps. :)

Or should I just call the pool store?

Thank you in advance for any advice!
 
Your to do list fairly much sums it up, but you might consider switching to hard PVC, it is not much more difficult to work with, you use have to be more careful on measuring the lengths of each piece.
 
You're a smart man Chew. PVC flex pipe is plumbed the same way as solid pvc except for different glue, but the same primer. You should replace all the fittings as well as any o-rings. Make sure you use primer also. Assuming you are using male fittings from your pump to the filter, then usually putting in the males first and then plumbing the flex pipe into them is usually the best option. Also it's smart to overbuy an extra foot of flex just in case.
 
I used a lot of flex for a 300 gallon marine reef tank I had and it worked well there, with an entire room of sumps and refugiums but all protected from the weather. I don't think I'd want to use it where exposed to the elements though and Isaac-1 above and other posts here pointed me away from trying it. I assumed I'd just be avoiding extra fittings :)

If you DO use it though, it glues into the fittings just like rigid PVC does. It may have just been me, but it seems to want to "back out" of the fitting more than rigid does so I'd have to hold it a little longer until it was set. I'm a pool newb though, so just passing on a little of what I saw using the flex of up to 3" for the reef system.
 
I forgot to ask before hitting the store, do I need a certain kind of primer or glue?

Guy at the store gave me E-Z Weld, schedule 40 up to 4" pressure. Says for potable water, DWV, and sewer. Will that work?

Also, does just taking the lid off the pump basket depressurize enough? Or is there more to it? Should I close the filter? Returns? Etc.

Thanks!
 

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Never heard of E-Z Weld, most people use Oatey brand PVC glues. If you are gluing white PVC to white PVC you can use clear cleaner (yellow can) or purple primer (purple stains everything purple for inspection purposes otherwise they are the same), then you can use either medium clear standard PVC glue for the joints, or I prefer blue rain or shine which will cure when wet, but does not give as much working time. (there are others, but these are the popular ones) If you are gluing to a CPVC fitting like a Jandy valve or a pump fitting you need to use a special glue like Oatey Red allpurpose glue, which is used when you are mixing types of fittings between PVC, CPVC and ABS.

Ike

p.s. it looks like E-Z weld has a full range of PVC glues and primers, which one do you have?
 
no cleaner OR Primer they are the same thing, just primer has the purple stain in it for inspectors to see, I have never seen the unpurple, but it sounds like a good idea for inspected work. Purple primer is messy as it is very thin (think working with purple food coloring)
 
Isaac-1 said:
no cleaner OR Primer they are the same thing, just primer has the purple stain in it for inspectors to see, I have never seen the unpurple, but it sounds like a good idea for inspected work. Purple primer is messy as it is very thin (think working with purple food coloring)
Click to expand...

Straight from oatey's website... "1. What is the difference between pipe cleaner, primer / cleaner and primer?
All pipe surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with pipe cleaner. The cleaner is formulated to remove surface dirt and any oil or grease that exists on the pipe from the manufacturing process. Primer/cleaner and primer contain more aggressive solvents and will soften the pipe surface to allow the solvent cement to penetrate more effectively. Primer is often required by plumbing code and sometimes a purple colored primer (purple primer) is needed."

Also, when pipe cement should be applied while the primer is still wet.
 
Well here's what I got.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/bledthemultitude/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_201631.jpg

It's ran all night with no leaks!

I think I was confused by the primer vs. cleaner thing thing. I used only cleaner and cement. Do you think I need to re-do this now? Or will it just not last as long? When I do the line from the filter to the heater I will use all 3, cleaner, then primer, then cement.

Also, is that union placement good, or should I have put a second one closer to the filter?

Thanks for all of the advice and help! At least now I'm up and running and feel like round two will go much smoother.
 
You did a real nice job on that. You should be proud of your work.

A union by the filter would have been nice, but it looks like your run from the elbow to the filter might have been all union if you had put in another one. :-? I'd say you made the right choice for this situation. On the up side, pipe doesn't leak, unions might.
 

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