Need a salt test?

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I split your post to its own thread, not polite to hijack ;)

I would get a salt test because the SWG can start to give false readings if things go south.
 
I would get an electronic salt tester. I just did so after a recommendation from a pool guy (that did our pool inspection). They run $100 or so from Amazon. I got the ExTech ExStik II. Tests salt, TDS, and temp.

I found my SWG was off by several hundred ppm after getting the tester. You can also buy a calibration solution for $10-15 (for a lifetime supply) and calibrate your tester every 6 months.
 
I would get an electronic salt tester. I just did so after a recommendation from a pool guy (that did our pool inspection). They run $100 or so from Amazon. I got the ExTech ExStik II. Tests salt, TDS, and temp.

I found my SWG was off by several hundred ppm after getting the tester. You can also buy a calibration solution for $10-15 (for a lifetime supply) and calibrate your tester every 6 months.

Waste of money if you ask me... It was off by a few hundred compared to the Taylor test??? Or compared to test strips? I doubt it was Taylor.

Regardless, a few hundred ppm is not enough to worry about. Salt does not need to be exact.
 
Compared to the SWG sensor. Regarding a Taylor test or an electronic tester, I believe the payback period is about 1 year if you test salt and TDS 1-2x/week. (~20 tests per bottle). So for me, it's a good investment and a heck of a lot quicker than a chemical test.

But either one is sufficient. My main point was to not rely on the SWG sensor.
 
It's a personal choice if you ask me. If you feel a good TDS meter is worth it over testing with Silver Nitrate, then by all means get one. I can't speak to that Meter, but it's up to an individual. All that said, once a week testing for Salt is overkill but that too is a personal choice with no wrong answer.
 
So then, how quickly should I be losing salt? Very often we will get salt up to 3200, and within a couple of days back down to 2700. According to the SWG readings.

There's either a problem with the salt cell sensor or you have an enormous water leak, too much splash out or other water loss. If the 500ppm difference were real, that would be like 65lbs of salt in my 16,000 gal pool.

Most of the SWG sensors are NOT temperature compensated, and there can be several hundred ppm difference between cold water and warm water.


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If the SWG is working then all is well. If it reads low salt then you need to test. You said that it may read 2700 or 3200. That may be when it reverses polarity. I would use cheap test strips to see what you have and maybe take it to the pool store also. If it comes out 3200 or there about then you have a cell that needs cleaning or is failing.
 
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