Salt using Chlorine ?

[SacDave]

Not sue if this is the right area to post but it is a chemistry question.
I have a salt pool with a non-functioning Aqua Rite chlorinator. So all last year I had problems with the pool holding chlorine, So in the winter I drained about 2/3 of the water and refilled the pool. So this year I’m having the same problem with chlorine levels. So following the advice of my pool supply store I have slammed/shocked the pool, tried algaecide treatments. So far nothing has helped To kind of give you an idea of whats going last Wednesday 6 bags of shock after 4 hours 2 bags of E-Z CLOR Q2 shock oxidizing treatment the next morning Thursday chlorine was almost non existent. So I added two more bags of shock. So Friday following the advice of the pool store employee who’s been trying to help me sent to another one of their stores to talk to “Mark” I explained what was going on he said if the chlorinator was not working the salt would be using up the chlorine. So is this true? He said my option were to drain the pool or replace the chlorinator. He did add he could not come close to selling me a chlorinator compared to what I could buy one on line for. As for draining the pool not really a responsible option in CA. So before I bite the bullet on a new chlorinator dose salt using chlorine seem right ? BTW I’m not big on technical stuff, so defiantly laymen’s terms. Hears the test results from Friday.
Pool 20,000gal. I did add salt after I drained the pool.
Total chlorine 1.0
Free Choline 1.0
pH 7.4
total alkalinity 100
Calcium hardness 230
Stabilizer 70
Salt 3300
Phosphate 0.0

 

[DaninFLA]

you need a real test kit so you can accurately test for CYA and Chlorine levels. you are hurting yourself by adding those bags of shock. do not put any more in. they add chlorine, but also add a lot of CYA. CYA gets too high and you need too much chlorine.

your pool isn't holding chlorine because you have algae growing that are consuming it. You need to SLAM your pool. SLAM is not shocking your pool, go to the Pool School tab at the top and read up. first thing you need is a proper test kit.

the pool's test results are not accurate, especially for CYA (called stabilizer in your results).

the saltwater chlorinator cannot keep up with the algae once its established, so you have to fully sanitize the pool first via SLAM, then it will maintain chlorine. there is a good chance your chlorinator is fine, don't throw it away yet.

another tip...stay out of the pool store. they don't know what they are talking about.

 

[ping]

Welcome to TFP!

The pool store advice is the problem, they don't have a clue and they are only going to cause you more problems and take your money trying their ideas. Salt does not consume chlorine period. There are two things that consume chlorine, sunlight and organics. The shock packets that you have added are making the problem worse as they are adding to the CYA which makes the SLAM process use more chlorine. The simple answer to fix your pool is going through the SLAM process, see my signature for the link.

To properly SLAM a pool using one of the recommended test kits is required. You can get the TF-100 from PoolSupplyWorld as they are closer to you than TFTestkits.net.

Do you know what is wrong with the Aqua Rite? We have fixed many units that people think are broken with a simple $3 fix. Tell us the problem the Aqua Rite is having and we can diagnose it, or use the search function for "current limiter" and you will find many threads that deal with this well known issue.

Ask questions as they come up, we are here to help.

 

[SacDave]

The shock I'm using is Supper Shockwave Cal Hypo I believe it contains no conditioners. On the aqua rite the generating light hasn't stayed on more than 1 minute in two years, only way to get it to turn on is by turning off and back on. Also on the circuit board upper right hand corner there are burn marks by what looks like a large ceramic Capacitor I (don't think it's Cap.) So I'm pretty sure the it's not working has to be at least 7 years old. I also did a algicide treatment ran the pump for 24 hours sweeping the pool multiple times then cleaning the filters,then adding shock. The pool looks really clean no kind of dust when I sweep it. Is there a specific test kit for CYA? I have new test strips the CYA looks correct. Do you think his statement about about the salt using chlorine is true?

 

[jblizzle]

You are correct that cal-hypo does not raise CYA ... instead it raise CH (calcium) which is also bad when it gets too high and requires water replacement.

We do not recommend the us or algaecides either as they are more of an insurance (not needed) to prevent algae from starting. You need chlorine ... and to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process.

Test strips are garbage, and the pool store testing is no better. Clearly the pool store guy is clueless as salt does NOT consume chlorine.

If you want to take control, invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits.

Also there are threads that discuss a potential fix for your SWG controller that would cost you < $5.

 

[SacDave]

Thanks I think I'll order the TF-100 . As for fixing or replacing the SWG I'm still debating that. One problem I noticed the salt seems to attract Bees my wife went to the emergency room twice last year. I will also start leaning how to take control of the pool , i do agree the pool stores sell a lot of Snake Oil.

 

[ping]

The large ceramic capacitor thing is called the "current limiter" and is 99% the reason the SWG will not stay on. It is very simple to replace with some basic soldering skills. There are many videos on Youtube showing how to replace the part for about $3 and lots of threads here on the board at TFP.

 

[tim5055]

Well, everyone else covered the bases so I'll just say Welcome to TFP!!

 

[SacDave]

I replaced that already Could not remember the name. I'd might just buy a complete new system, that would cover all the bases. Honestly when the system worked lot less problems. What test kit would you recommend? As for soldering skills build guitar amps as a hobby.

 

[tim5055]

What test kit would you recommend?

Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer, both make my testing quick & easy.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. Yo need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.