Just Opened Pool-Need Help with Readings

Aug 6, 2012
5
We have an inground Sylvan kidney shaped cement pool. We opened it two days ago and applied the usual shock. Today, I tested the water, and there was no free chlorine. Additionally, theAlk was 60, pH was 6.2, and CyA was 0. the water looks very cloudy and green. I tested for nitrates, and that was 3.0 after 30 seconds and over 50 ppm on the 60 second nitrate test. I am not sure where to begin here since so many things are off, and I could sure use your help in getting everything restored to normal. Did I mention that I am having a birthday pool party for myself in 8 days? Any help that you can give will be most appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
We have an inground Sylvan kidney shaped cement pool. We opened it two days ago and applied the usual shock. Today, I tested the water, and there was no free chlorine. Additionally, theAlk was 60, pH was 6.2, and CyA was 0. the water looks very cloudy and green. I tested for nitrates, and that was 3.0 after 30 seconds and over 50 ppm on the 60 second nitrate test. I am not sure where to begin here since so many things are off, and I could sure use your help in getting everything restored to normal. Did I mention that I am having a birthday pool party for myself in 8 days? Any help that you can give will be most appreciated. Thank you in advance.
well, you purchased a TF100 back in 2012 - but worrying about nitrates makes me think you have been visiting pool stores.

The solution to your problem is to SLAM your pool.

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
 
I'll chime in until someone more experienced comes along:

The order I'd tackle things in are PH first, then SLAM, CYA, alkalinity, and then calcium hardness if your pool is exposed concrete.

Usual disclaimers: If you don't already have one, you need a good test kit (like the TF-100) to be able to perform this; pool-store tests or test strips won't cut it. If you haven't read through Pool School, now is a good time to start.

Raise your PH with soda ash or borax. Use Poolmath to determine amounts.

SLAM the pool until your water is clear, you can make it through the night losing less than 1ppm of chlorine, and your combined chlorine reading is 0.5ppm or less. Unless ALL THREE of those markers are meant, there's stuff living in your pool, eating up your bleach.

After that I BELIEVE the order is less important. CYA will help you maintain chlorine levels so it doesn't burn off so quickly in the daytime. Total Alkalinity will help keep your PH steady so it isn't wildly swinging back to acidic levels. Calcium is important to keep plaster and exposed concrete pools from getting damaged. I know you can NOT tackle alkalinity and calcium at the same time. I don't know about handling CYA and alkalinity at the same time though.
 
I believe before you implement SLAM, take PH to 7.2 if possible, but also get CYA to about 30, otherwise the chlorine you're trying to increase will be lost and you might not be able to maintain the high level of FC required to SLAM. Of course we are making some assumptions here (that we don't like to) because we don't know if the readings above are accurate. :(

Also, when the term above is used, "I applied the usual shock", that is concerning in TFP because we don't do that. So we have to ask what was used for this purpose?

Lastly, it would be advisable to include all of your pool information into the "signature" which can be found by going to the Home Page, Settings, then Edit Signature. Make sure to let us know if you are chlorine only or SWG.

Understand lots of people are happy to assist. :) We just need to clarify a few things to better help you.
 
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