What does SHOCK FC mean in the SLAM proces?

[wgaldos]

Hello,
I'm new to this and already loving this site. I've learned so much in the last few days.

I'm preparing to SLAM my pool; the CYA chart references min FC, target FC, and SHOCK FC. If my CYA is 60, http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Does that mean I should put enough bleach (as per the calculator) to bring the FC reading to 24 (shock FC)? Where would I find a test kit that would show me such high reading? The kits I've seen only show readings as high as 5

Or does that mean I should put 24 bags (1lb each) of shock in the pool? (my pool = 10.5K gallons)

If I use the target FC as my guide, for 60 CYA It says the target should be 7. Again, the kits only go up to 5.

are there any recommended FAS-DPD kits that can be recommended without braking the bank?

Thank you very much

 

[tim5055]

You need the TF100. TFTestkits.net

It will test FC up to 50.

If you are going to SLAM then you want to add the XL option.

Remember, a SLAM is not a one time addition of chlorine, but must be held at the shock level for as long as it takes to kill all the bad stuff in the water.

You never really want to to use powder shock for a SLAM and if your CYA is 60, unless you have a salt generator you don't want to use solid forms of chlorine at all.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Hello,
are there any recommended FAS-DPD kits that can be recommended without braking the bank?

These kits seem expensive. But really you are breaking the bank not buying one. The pool store chems will cost way more than the test kit.

Plus how much is your frustration and loss of pool use worth?

The XL option doesn't really add much money by the way, because it adds enough to the total to qualify you for free shipping.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and to answer your question. The min FC is the minimum amount your pool should ever get. Any lower and algae may form. Target FC is the number you want to be at day to day. Shock FC is the amount you need during your slam. Mustard shock is the number you should not exceed during your slam, and the number required for mustard algae.

You will save quite a bit by partially draining your pool and refilling to bring your CYA down. I know water is money, but it is that much less bleach you will need. Slams can go through a lot of bleach sometimes.

 

[Isaac-1]

I know the test kits we recommend seem expensive, but they will save you money in the long run. If you have been relying on pool store testing and advice, a good test kit could perhaps pay for itself in one missed visit to the pool store, if you have been trying to manage on your own using a basic test kit or test strips it may take a few months for it to pay for itself in dollars, but will likely pay for itself in better quality water and less frustration much quicker.

Ike

p.s. I too suggest the TF-100 probably with the XL option as the bet bang for the buck, all too often we hear about people buying the K-2006 then having to pay for more reagents right away

 

[emike93309]

I bought the TF 100 about a year and a half ago, and this summer was the first time I had to restock anything (fas-dpd and cya reagent was all). It pays for itself everytime the pool store salesman recommends $80 worth of garbage I don't need, and I can confidently say "no" because I know my numbers.

It's a long term investment, but I spent my first summer trying to make test strips and pool store tests work, and buying whatever Leslie's recommended. I wasted a lot more money on snake oil that summer than I would have spent on a test kit. Buy it now or you'll end up spending a lot more before this season is over.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

I agree about the test kit, but wanted to reiterate do NOT use packs of "shock" powder as they will either raise your CH or your CYA ... and neither is good.

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool