Zero Chlorine

Jul 26, 2012
6
Hello all.

Just opened up our Intex AG pool. Completely drained and refilled with city water. Water is very clear. I am getting zero chlorine levels.

Kit: Taylor K-1005

FC: 0
PH: 7.8
TA: 90
CYA: 30- (That black dot never disappears, even with the tube filled).

I'll add Clorox bleach, and will get a FC reading shortly after, but by morning, it's back to zero.

Never had this problem. Any ideas? Looks like I may need to add stabilizer?

Mark
 
Welcome to TFP Mark, sorry we haven't answered you sooner.

I am sorry for answering you with questions, but I can't avoid it. So how much Chlorine are you adding each time, and what was going on in the pool prior to drain and refill? What FC level are you targeting with each addition? There are two things that consume Chlorine and they are Sunlight and organics. You may not be adding enough, and the Sun may be getting all you are putting in. You do need to add stabilizer for sure, so I would get on that today. Post back, and we can go from there.
 
Good morning Mark! When you reply, I'd like to suggest taking a moment to include all of your pool information into your signature. This can be done by going to the top of the TFP page and selecting "Settings" just under the Pool School button. When the next page appears, look to the left menu for "Edit Signature". It will help all the TFP readers assist you in the future. :) Have a great day.
 
If you have low CYA - and you do if the dot never disappears - the sun will steal all your chlorine in a few hours.

Even a perfectly balanced pool will lose 2 or 3 FC every day. More if it's really hot and sunny or if it gets a lot of use.

You just need to raise the CYA level to 40 or 50 and accept that a pool is like a pet and requires daily feeding. If you use the sock method we describe to add CYA, the pool will stay swimmable to whole time.

If by chance you end up with the water going cloudy from too long with too little FC, you'll need to do the SLAM process. And to do that you'll need a better chlorine test. Luckily, you can buy just the FAS-DPD test and turn your kit into a K-2006. Even if you don't need to SLAM, it's still a much better test than the one your kit comes with. No questioning the shade at all. It's pink or it isn't. Pretty foolproof.
 
Sorry for not getting back to you all. I went and bought some stabilizer and my chlorine levels were back to normal, well, I missed a few days of adding chlorine because of the weather, so my FC went from 4 to zero pretty much, but my all my other levels were good:

FC: 0 or reallllly low (been about 4-5 days since I added anything)
pH: 7.5
TA: 90
CYA: 50

Intex- 16'
Intex Sand Filter
 
Fc is the single most important number.....keep that up period. It is better that is higher than it is lower. All things being equal, don't let fc drop below the minimum for your cya.
 
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