Pool out of control

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Pool Caretaker

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Jun 4, 2015
7
Langley, BC, Canada
Hi, My name is Pool Caretaker because the family relies on me to take care of it :)

I had 2 great years with my above-ground pool, but this year is a disaster, I can't get rid of the green tint (although it's clear, I can see the bottom easily.) I did the same things as last year, except the pool got warm faster due to good weather. I'm using the test sticks, so don't have accurate numbers to tell you yet, my Taylor 2006 is on order.

Meanwhile I tried getting a pool store to advise me and their numbers were totally different from mine - my Alkalinity showed high (180), their's showed low (95). My chlorine was 10+, their's was 6.5. Anyway I shocked it last night and I'm leaving the cover off so it isn't such a warm breeding ground for algae. I've read and read and read your advice and many many posts, thank you for the education. But I don't know what to do now - my pool is still green, according to the test strips the chlorine level is off the charts, and if the store test is right my CYA is 0.

I'm on well-water, I had used metal-out twice, and the store test says I have 0 copper, manganese, or iron. We have a rare good weekend coming up, and I so want a solution in time for Saturday - is that possible? My understanding is that this chlorine should go down quickly if it's killing the algae - why is it still so high and the water still so green??? It's like nothing is changing except I'm making the environment rapidly worse.

(I will buy store bleach on your advice, but meanwhile I used Burn-out because that's what I had. I put in a 400gr. bag which is way more than my 3300gal pool needs, but the store people said to do that first.)

I'm so hoping you can help me here!? Many thanks.
 
How were you chlorinating your pool the last two years? Trichlor tablets?

What did you just shock with? Dichor?

Both of those probably have the CYA in your pool too high. Until you know what your CYA actually is by testing it yourself correctly, all you can really do is dump some containers of bleach in blindly.
 
Caretaker, can you also post a picture of your water"
CLear +green can indeed indicate metals, which oxidize when shocking or when ph is high.

The two recommended metal sequestrants here are Metal Magic and Jack's Magic. Both require a LOW chlorine level to work, so no point doing it while shocking/slamming.

Best course is to first post your results when you get the kit, and then next steps will be based on CYA determination.

If its looking like algae but your CYA is actually in range (need some, but if too high, will need to do a partial drain before slamming) then you will ultimately proceed with Slam so read up in the link in my signature.

Alternately, if you pass the overnight chlorine loss test, water is clear (but tinted) etc., thn you will lower chlorine and possibly ph to add metal sequestrant...might need a double dose to clear.

Hope that helps! Welcome and post back so we can get you sorted.
Cheers!
 
Thank you for your replies yesterday! I had the water re-tested and the CYA is now 30 - they said they can't test for the metals. I can't do the overnight test without a better kit - in the mean time can you tell me if it's safe to swim in, if I let the chlorine drop to 3-4, and if the green tint remains but doesn't get worse? I can see the bottom easily. We just want to use the darn pool!
 
PC, (unfortunately) most other threads on this subject repeat that generally speaking, it's not a good idea to swim when the water is green. Not just because of algae itself, but because there could be other harmful bacteria in the water. Until your K2006 arrives, all the numbers provided are really a guess to us - even when provided by the pool store. By now you probably know from TFP posts that we don't think too fondly of pool store testing. :)

I would take the advice already provided and emphasize a couple more things: Do not add anything else to your water right now except for regular bleach; read very carefully the SLAM instructions and Chlorine/CYA Chart from this site (also lined below in my sig). That will be your starting point. We look forward to new test numbers once your kit arrives.
 
Caretaker, you say you can see the bottom clearly...any way you can post us a pic?

Are any of you blond? If the clear green is oxidized copper, you might tint your hair green. Best to sequester hen the FC is lower...BUT first should rule out lar/need for slam.
 
If there is iron in your water, high chlorine (and pH rise) will cause the iron to give the water a slight yellow tint, which will look green when combined with blue pool walls and reflections of blue sky. Let the chlorine level drop below 10ppm, then adjust your pH to 7.2 (using your test kit and Pool Math to add precisely the right amount of acid). The problem may clear up on its own. If it doesn't, Jack's Metal Magic or a similar sequestrant will likely be the next step.

Problem #247 with pool stores: If you mention "green water", they will blindly tell you to shock the pool, without asking further questions. Unfortunately, if the green is due to metals, the chlorine can make the problem worse. But that makes the pool store happy, because now they can sell you even more expensive junk to solve the problem they caused. Out-of-control pool = profit!
 
This sounds like metal to me. Personally, I'd take the chances of my grey hair turning green n swim if it's so darn hot. But that's just me. lol
 
Clear green sounds like metals. Unless you have a source of metal free water available, you will need to use sequestrant on a regular basis to keep the water clear. Most of our members on well water have issues with iron. You will need Jack's magic or Metal Magic to keep the metals in suspension.

Have you added a dichlor/trichlor product lately? Have you added CYA lately? If not then I would not trust the CYA test result and retest yourself when your kit arrives.

Leave the cover off until the FC comes down. Since we are unsure of your CYA level we don't know if 4ppm chlorine is enough or too much. It would be best to wait until you can test with your own kit.
 

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I've just posted a picture, it's much better than it was, but still green compared to the last 2 summers. Thanks for your ideas, I've left the cover off for several days and I think it's helped. The chlorine's low by the end of the day (as expected), about 0.5 on the test strip so I bump it back up at night. The Ph is about 6.8 right now. I do have a floating dispenser for "Stablilized Chloronating Tablets - Trichoro-S-Triazinetrione" as well. I can't buy either of the brands of sequestrant you recommend, but have tracked down a couple that are HEDP based, so will buy one tomorrow and try it too. I'm following all advice that you've provided, and my kit should arrive by Friday. Many thanks to all of you! :)
 
The pool is so clear except for the tinge of green. Hopefully it works out for you.,
 
Thanks for the pics, caretaker!
With that clarity, I'm pretty sure you'll just need to maintain chlorine levels (see the FC:cya chart in my signature) to normal maintenance levels and use the hedp sequestrant. But once your test kit comes in, post your results and we'll help you get balanced, which will make it easier to handle the metals.

Your ph per test strips is too low, even for metals, but with small gallonage, I'd not want you to overshoot bringing it up blind.

The best ph level for metals/well water is about 7.2, just so you know.
 
PC, it's been a few days since I first replied. Did you ever receive your test kit yet (Taylor K2006)? It seems you are still using test strips huh? I ask because I know we've all had a couple different thoughts about what may be making you water green (algae or metals), but without that test kit, we are taking a lot of chances guessing. We really need the accurate numbers that only the proper test kit can give. I also know from owning that exact same pool once upon a time, that the water gets warm REAL fast due to its size. Mine was always green because I didn't know TFP, how to properly SLAM, nor did I own the proper test kit at the time. So while you "may" have metals in the water from that area, it may also be something else (i.e. algae), but without the test kit we don't know.

You are also using "stabilizers" (tablets/pucks, perhaps powders) that increase CYA quickly, and that effects your pool's ability to maintain chlorine properly. In addition, your Free Chlorine (FC) has dropped way too low - perhaps on more than one occasion, and that's a breeding ground for algae. FC and CYA are two very important tests that can only be done properly with the right test kit, and not done by the pool store.

PC, we all want to give you the best advice possible, so anything you can do to expedite getting your hands on the right test kit and posting those numbers will help tremendously.
 
The wait for the test kit is brutal - but by the end of this week for sure! I can't understand why this critical item is so darn hard to get - I live in an area with several pool stores to choose from. But so many don't have FAS/DPD - if it's so important, why is it so rare? The one store that carries them quoted a professional kit (Taylor 2005) at $1400!!!!! The others were $380 and $345 - yet the one I ordered from Amazon (Taylor 2006) was less than $60 U.S. Question for Texas Splash - when your water was green from algae, was it as clear as this? Picking up sequestrant today, will update if anything changes :)
 
Pool Caretaker said:
The wait for the test kit is brutal - but by the end of this week for sure! I can't understand why this critical item is so darn hard to get - I live in an area with several pool stores to choose from. But so many don't have FAS/DPD - if it's so important, why is it so rare? The one store that carries them quoted a professional kit (Taylor 2005) at $1400!!!!! The others were $380 and $345 - yet the one I ordered from Amazon (Taylor 2006) was less than $60 U.S. Question for Texas Splash - when your water was green from algae, was it as clear as this? Picking up sequestrant today, will update if anything changes :)
Click to expand...

Pool stores want you to give THEM control of your pool (and wallet!), not provide you with tools for you to take over control (bad for their bottom line).
 
Green tint in pool solved!! :) Despite the fact that the pool store said I had no copper, iron or other metals, the solution came in the form of "Pool Magnet Plus." I still haven't had a chance to test with my new kit, but early last week I decided to try the 'HEDP' based sequestrant - I'd used a different type twice already, and wasn't too hopeful. But your suggestions that it sounded like metal nudged me to try again with the type recommended here, and by the next day - voila! I'll send another pic later. Thanks to all!
 

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