Opening advice

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J

jhkh

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LifeTime Supporter
Jun 20, 2014
132
Sumrall, MS
Hello everyone:D

Last year was my first season using the TFP method. Here is a reminder what I started with last year:

Before pic!!



I used a cover over the off months and this is what I'm starting with this year :party:



I'm getting ready to SLAM (yes, I have cleaned out debris and checked all equipment) :D

Here are my initial readings with TFP test kit:
pH 7.5
Chlorine 0
CYA 0
TA 100
CH 75
FC 10ppm
CC 5ppm

I just checking with y'all about how to proceed to make sure I don't screw up anything!!! Lol
I'm thinking:
1. fix CYA
2. SLAM
3. add salt
OR should it be :
1. fix CYA
2. add salt
3. SLAM

Thank you all sooooo much!!! I love my Trouble Free Pool:swim:
 
First thing you should do is add about 10 ppm of FC to your pool before adding CYA. You had CYA in the pool last year so with a reading of 0 this year, there is a chance it may have been converted to ammonia over the winter. To see if there is ammonia conversion do the 10 ppm FC addition and check the FC/CC after 1 hour. Post your results then.

Rake out as many leaves as you possibly can in the process.
 
OTO test?? Remind me which one that is. Could my DPD powder from last year be no good? It has dark purple chunks in it.

- - - Updated - - -

All I have added so far was about 7 gallons of bleach while I was vacuuming, brushing & cleaning out debris.
 
In your results you list the pH and the say chlorine = 0 (the OTO is the yellow matching test with the pH) .. then later give the FC and CC.

The powder can get chunky and purple, just break it back up.
 
If the OTO was clear, then I do not understand how you got any reading from the FAS-DPD test. The OTO is a nearly bulletproof test for the presence of chlorine in the water.

How was the test kit stored from last year?
 
I stored my test kit in a closet over the winter.
Obviously I screwed something up the first round of tests because here are my new test results after adding 4 gals. of bleach & circulating for 1 hr:


CL 5
Br 10
pH 7.5

FC 4.5 ppm
CC .5 ppm

CH 100
TA 110
CYA 0
 

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Add it in a sock, suspended in front of a return. Pump running 24/7 and occasionally squeezing the sock will dissolve the CYA fairly quickly. Even though it won't all be instantly dissolved, assume your CYA is at the level you targeted with the addition of the CYA and start the SLAM. For instance, assume your CYA is now 30 if you added enough to get there for the purposes of a SLAM.
 
Yes. After the SLAM, then you can get your CYA higher (70 at first) and work on dialing in your SWCG. It's easier/cheaper to SLAM at lower CYA levels so best to wait til the water is clear. If you need to while dialing in the SWCG after the SLAM, keep some bleach around to supplement until you figure out run time and % generation.
 
Hi everyone,

The SLAM is going great thanks to all I have learned here and all y'alls help!!!

While I'm slamming I need to learn about "dialing in my SWG". I would love to be able to use the timer. I see that I have one, but have always turned the pump on & off manually. I took pics because I don't see the "trippers" that should be on the dial to set it with according to the directions inside..... I also took a pic of the directions such as they are. If anyone can help with this, I appreciate it as always :D (Or do I need to post this in a different thread?) Thanks!!



 
You can get the little on / off trippers from most any hardware store. Just look for ones that will work with Intermatic mechanical timers ... might be by the hot water heaters.
 
That is right.
078275002135lg.jpg
 

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