In the process of slamming pool, now there's metal in my water???

[cta2015]

About a month ago, I went to my local pool store to get my water tested and to get some chemicals in order to slam my pool, which at the time was green and full of algae. At that time, my pH was over 8.6 and there was 0 copper or iron metal in my water. I left with powder shock and "lo n slo" pH reducer, according to their suggestions.

Due to my schedule, I had to wait until this past weekend to start shocking my pool. It's now blue and looking a lot better, which I was very happy about. Brought some water back into the pool store, and they said my pH was very low ( < 6.6) and there is now metal in my water (copper: 2.1, iron: 0.1), which may suggest is from a damaged heater? And I'm looking at about $200 of more chemicals to clean the metals, and potentially a couple thousand dollars if the heater's broken.

I'm wondering why the pH is so low, if it originally was very high and the intention was to just balance it. Was it my fault that I waited a couple weeks after the initial water test before using the chemicals I bought? Also, do you think these metals appeared from this weekend since I've shocked and lowered the pH the pool? They've recommended the following products: Pool Magnet Plus, Spark Up, and Kleen It. What are your guys thoughts and do you guys have any recommendations on how to clean out the metal? Thanks for the help!

Update: I've looked online and it says copper can come from ground water or algaecide, which makes sense because my water was below the skimmer level so I also filled it last week with my hose and also added some algaecide a couple days ago. Hoping that heater damage isn't the cause of the metal?

 

[Richard320]

The pool store is correct that very low pH can etch the metal in a heater.

Not all algaecides have copper, you;'d have to tell us exactly what you added to be sure.

If you fill from a well, you could get metals that way. If it's a municipal water supply, it;s unlikely.

The good news is, pool stores are notoriously wrong with their tests.

My recommendation is to get your own test kit and follow our methods and stay out of the pool store unless you need to buy some oddball bits of pool hardware.

 

[cta2015]

The pool store is correct that very low pH can etch the metal in a heater.

Not all algaecides have copper, you;'d have to tell us exactly what you added to be sure.

If you fill from a well, you could get metals that way. If it's a municipal water supply, it;s unlikely.

The good news is, pool stores are notoriously wrong with their tests.

My recommendation is to get your own test kit and follow our methods and stay out of the pool store unless you need to buy some oddball bits of pool hardware.

Unfortunately threw away the bottle, but it was only a quart, could it really have changed my copper level from 0 to 2.1?

I have my own test kit, but the pool store is also able to test for metals. What would you recommend for removing the metal in my water?

 

[Richard320]

I'd do nothing about the metal right now. Finish the SLAM. Get everything else balanced. Take samples to a couple pool stores and see if they still show metals. Then worry about it. We know pool stores get the CYA test wrong 95% of the time, why are we always so quick to assume they get the metals tests right?

 

[ethany]

I don't think you can remove metals from pool water unless you drain the water n replace. But you can use a sequestering agent. I have iron stains on my fiberglass walls and the only way to remove them was using the asorbic acid treatment.

Sequestering agents have to be used or applied every week for them to work.

 

[Swampwoman]

Welcome, cta.
Re:

They've recommended the following products: Pool Magnet Plus, Spark Up, and Kleen It. What are your guys thoughts and do you guys have any recommendations on how to clean out the metal? Thanks for the help!

I'd rather see you take a more controlled approach to managing your pool so that you don't have the kind of unintended consequences the pool store advice and testing landed you in I am unclear if you're presently following TFP methods since the pool store debaucle, so I'm gong to back up a bit here to make sure we've covered the bases.

So first:
Is your test kit a tft100 or a Taylor 2006?

Metals are tricky and having one of the recommended test kits (TFT100 or specifically Taylor2006, available at http://www.tfttestkits.net ) would help you properly manage any treatment -- not because they test for metals but because they can accurately tell you your ph daily and FC levels precisely when treating...and help in a more careful dosing of pool when doing things such as adding ph down or performing a SLAM. (Here we tend to use muriatic acid to lower ph, and use the "Pool Math" calculator to be precise about it.)

If you have one of the recommended test kits, then finish the SLAM following the TFP instructions, but note that so-doing might oxidize metals if they're present and cause a tint to your water that you can later resolve with a sequestrant.

If you truly have metals (pool store testing can be unreliable on this front too...staining when the ph gets high or at high FC levels is the likeliest indicator) these are your longer term options:

1. Drain or dilute if practical -- caution needs to be taken with fiberglass pools if you have a high water table, so partial changes may be best...

2. Or use a full startup dose of a recommended sequestering agent, specifically Jacks Magic or Metal Magic. Then replenish throughout the season to keep the metals bound up and prevent staining.

3. By maintaining ph on the lower end, eg 7.2, you can often prevent staining from metals...but you'd want to be testing and controlling your ph regularly, which is kinda the TFP way. Eg. I test my FC and ph daily, takes about a minute

4. I will post a link to a relatively inexpensive home use metal test kit in a minute, but I'll say people have mixed results with metal testing...when the metal has precipitated into a stain, for example, you might get a zero...etc.
Amazon.com: LaMotte 2994 Insta-Test Iron and Copper Multi-Factor Test Strip, 0-5ppm Iron Range, 0-3ppm Copper Range (Pack of 25): Industrial Scientific

So, hope that helps give you an idea of options. Stick around TFP and you'll find that its much nicer to be self-sufficient on your testing and troubleshooting.

Pool stores may mean well, but they violate what i like to think of as the first law of unintended pool consequences...never put anything into your pool without knowing what it is, how it will behave, how it will interact with other things you use, and precisely how much you need

Most of that starts with good testing and simple products (as opposed to compound products).

 

[cta2015]

Thanks everyone! On another note, if copper is in fact in my water, will my pool still be swimmable? Also, I live in Seattle where summers will be around high 70s - low 90s, can I expect the water to swimmable without using a pool heater?

I am unclear if you're presently following TFP methods since the pool store debaucle, so I'm gong to back up a bit here to make sure we've covered the bases.

No I have not been following TFP methods. To correct myself, I've only shocked my pool once and have mostly been bringing my water into the pool store. My test kit was a Guardex 4 in 1, but I just ordered a TFT-100 and it just shipped this morning. After spending some more time reading through pool school, I am definitely going to try and rely less on my pool store from now on. For now, I will wait unless the test kit comes in and will do my own testing and move on from there. Thanks for the help!

 

[Swampwoman]

Cta, I think you made a wise decision After the early learning curve you will honestly have the easiest time managing your pool!

Once you have your test readings and if needed, ultimately sequester the copper, you can swim through the season by maintaining the sequestrant and making sure your ph doesn't get too crazy high.

You may be in for some trial and error regarding use of the heater to see whether or not it adds more. The sequestrant should help buffer the metal parts as well. I'm not particularly knowledgeable on equipment but perhaps someone with more mechanical experience will come along.

In the mean time, post up your test results when you get your kit and we'll see what steps make sense in what order

PS if you get a chance, post up some pics of your pool...it may help us assist you. You might also want to take a pic of the inside of the heater...you may not have much, or any, damage...that could be a pool store upsell

 

[cta2015]

Cta, I think you made a wise decision After the early learning curve you will honestly have the easiest time managing your pool!

Once you have your test readings and if needed, ultimately sequester the copper, you can swim through the season by maintaining the sequestrant and making sure your ph doesn't get too crazy high.

You may be in for some trial and error regarding use of the heater to see whether or not it adds more. The sequestrant should help buffer the metal parts as well. I'm not particularly knowledgeable on equipment but perhaps someone with more mechanical experience will come along.

In the mean time, post up your test results when you get your kit and we'll see what steps make sense in what order

PS if you get a chance, post up some pics of your pool...it may help us assist you. You might also want to take a pic of the inside of the heater...you may not have much, or any, damage...that could be a pool store upsell

Hi! I have uploaded some pictures and have moved my SLAM process into this thread. If you want to check it out and give me your feedback I'd appreciate it!