Hayward Perflex Filter & Water Pressure Issues

[slew18]

I have some issues going into this swimming season. I just installed a new 1 hp pump which has worked fine with one issue. After the pump I have a "T" pvc connector. One side goes to a valve to my "waste" and the other side goes to a valve to my filter and down the line to my heater and chlorinator. When the system runs to my filter side I get about 16-20 PSI reading on the filter pressure gauge. No bubbles in the pump system, etc. However, the pressure doesn't seem right as my heater isn't operating as I think the water pressure switch isn't trul;y getting enough pressure to the diaphragm. Further, the chlorinator shows no flow. Water is truly flowing thru the system but to a great degree. My confusion lies here: if I switch the sytem to waste I get great pressure. You can tell the pump is pulling much more water frmo the skimmer and main drain.
Why would I be getting so much pressure when it goes to waste and not when I switch the pump to the main system?
I have new Hayward DE filter. One thought I had is that I have this plumbing after the pump to the T connector. Should I have the pump plumbed directly to the filter first and then only have a waste pipe after the filter?
Any other ideas?

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

On waste you have a much lower head loss meaning there is less resistance to the flow. The water is just spraying out and not having to travel through the filter and the heater and the plumbing back to the pool.

The location of the valve should not be a problem.

Please post pictures of your plumbing setup. How To Post Pictures

 

[Isaac-1]

16-20 psi sounds in the right ballpark for a clean EC-65

 

[slew18]

Re: Hayward Perflex Filter & Water Pressure Issues

Here is an image of my plumbing. So my pressure is fine but the two items, that are after my filter, making me question the presure are the heater and chlorinator. The chlorinator still says no flow. I plan on reaplcing the flow switch tonight to see if that is the issue but I doubt it. I replaced the water pressure switch on the heater. The heater now kicks in for about 30 seconds, turns off/on for seconds, then off for about anther minute and turns back on and does the same thing. Thus again making me think that the pressure is screwing with the diapraghm in the pressure switch on the heater. This is a new water pressure switch as well...
Any more ideas!!??

- - - Updated - - -

Here is an image of my plumbing. So my pressure is fine but the two items, that are after my filter, making me question the presure are the heater and chlorinator. The chlorinator still says no flow. I plan on reaplcing the flow switch tonight to see if that is the issue but I doubt it. I replaced the water pressure switch on the heater. The heater now kicks in for about 30 seconds, turns off/on for seconds, then off for about anther minute and turns back on and does the same thing. Thus again making me think that the pressure is screwing with the diapraghm in the pressure switch on the heater. This is a new water pressure switch as well...
Any more ideas!!??

 

[Isaac-1]

Are you sure you did not overfill the DE filter did you use a scale to measure out the 6 pounds of DE for fresh fill or about 5 pounds if recoating after backwash?

 

[slew18]

Are you sure you did not overfill the DE filter did you use a scale to measure out the 6 pounds of DE for fresh fill or about 5 pounds if recoating after backwash?

I'm pretty sure about that. I even pulled off the top yesterday and saw that the filter fingers were generally coated and there was about the two inches on the bottom as stated in the manual. I was thinking about putting in a new set as I have a backup of filter fingers that are clean and ready?

 

[Hayward Pool]

Everything looks good on the plumbing. I am also asking about the DE. Would be nice to know the flow.