Newly set up pool. HELP!

We set up and filled last week and knowing nothing added one gallon of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite to help us clean the pool liner as it filled since we purchased it used and it sat for a year before we set it up. It had a lot of stains on the liner that are now gone. We added another gallon the day after it was completely filled noticing a reddish brown silt on the bottom of the pool that quickly turns the pool water rust colored when agitated. I can't get that to go away. < that is one of my needs

>Next need is that I can't seem to get the total alkalinity down. I have added a gallon of muriatic acid in increments of 6 cups at a time every 2 hours and brought it down from 240 to 180 but it was right back up again today when I tested.

Here are my readings:

TH - 250
TC - 0
TB - 0
FC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 240
CYA - 40

We are trying to use the BBB method and would like to stick to it if at all possible.
 
Copper, I think the TFP audience would definitely need to know if you filled with well water as Woodyp asked earlier. In addition, what about the following:
- Please confirm which test set you used to get those readings
- If your FC is truly 0, you need some liquid bleach in there right away. You can use the Poolmath Calculator in my signature to assist you.
- FYI ... I "think" in your readings listed above, "TH" is meant to be Calcium hardness (CH)?; and TC is meant to be Combined Chlorine (CC)? Just confirming. :)

Your reply might help others assist you more accurately. Oh, and welcome! :wave:
 
It was indeed well water.

I used the Auqua Check Test Strips and have ordered a Taylor K 2006 test kit that has not arrived yet. I know the strips are not nearly as accurate.

After I posted I used the Poolmath Calculator and followed the directions on there. I added 51 ounces of 10% chlorine and 76 oz of Borax I will test again after supper to see if there are any changes.
 
Welcome! :wave:

That rust sediment is a good thing. Iron can be filtered out if it precipitates. Let the pH climb and you'll see a lot more of it precipitating out. Check out this thread-- homemade Iron filters. Others have had good success layering paper towels in the skimmer basket or packing it with polyester pillow batting. Hopefully, there's some way to connect a vacuum to your filter. That would be ideal. Let the crud settle, then suck it into the filter, then wash the rust off the filter and be done with it. Then adjust pH down to normal and go along your merry way. You'll never get all of it, so you'll need a metal sequestrant, too. Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
 
Another update:

I tested the pool a few hours after adding the Chlorine and Borax. Here are my new readings:

TC: 250
CC: 1
Borate: 2
FC: 2
pH: 7.8
TA: 240
CYA: 40

I am still worried that the Total Alkalinity is still too high. :(

Richard320 - Thank you so much for the links! I will read up tonight and start working again on it tomorrow.

We have had an above ground pool for years but never had clear water. After finding this forum I am determined to have clear, refreshing water to swim in this year! Thank you for your help!!!!!
 
Copper, before you call it a night, I would also suggest increasing your FC. If you're not sure how much, just check the Recommended Levels and Chlorine/CYA chart links below in my signature. A CC reading over .5 tends to indicate something is trying to brew. The FC will help to keep it at bay. We want you to keep that water nice and clear. :) Have a good evening.
 
I feel I am getting closer, but I need to run into town and get some more muriatic acid to continue. I am also going to pick up some polyfill for the skimmer to try and get the iron sediment out of there. It seems to be less than yesterday after I vacuumed but I didn't have anything to put in the skimmer then. I will vacuum again this evening when I have the polyfill to help me out.
 

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