cloudy pool results of first test kit, need advice

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R

Robert71

0
May 25, 2015
13
Zeeland
Taylor k2006 kit finally arrived and here are the first test results

PH 7.5
CH 180
TA 180
CYA 54
FC 0.6
CC 1.8

Want to shock but need to know if anything should be adjusted first and if the shock calculations seem okay.

Shock for 37000 gallons: FC target is about 22 for non swg outdoor pools with a CYA of 54. Bleach amount would be 9.5 gallons of 8.25% bleach.
TA appears high-should this be adjusted before shocking?
Should water be added to lower the CYA reading before shocking?

Any other advice or suggestions?
 
Welcome to TFP!

Want to shock but need to know if anything should be adjusted first and if the shock calculations seem okay.
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I would bring the pH down a tick to around 7.2 prior to the SLAM Process. Once you begin the SLAM, ignore pH - don't even test it until you finish the SLAM. The higher FC levels called for during a SLAM will skew the results of the pH test and you do not want to over-compensate.

Shock for 37000 gallons: FC target is about 22 for non swg outdoor pools with a CYA of 54. Bleach amount would be 9.5 gallons of 8.25% bleach.
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Using Pool Math, I'm getting slightly different numbers, but both yours and mine are close enough and both will work. The SLAM target FC is just that - a target - not an absolute minimum or maximum. Going a point or two on either side of the target is fine.

TA appears high-should this be adjusted before shocking?
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Nope. Don't worry about TA until the pool is cleared up and the other parameters are within the ranges we recommend (tested after the SLAM of course). Your sole focus during the SLAM will be on maintaining FC as close to the target as you can.

Should water be added to lower the CYA reading before shocking?
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Optional...I would only add water if it is needed for some other reason. If we are talking about a top-off, it will not impact CYA much, if at all. However, if you choose to do this, do it before you begin the SLAM. Your CYA is just slightly higher than what we recommend for a non-SWG pool, but it is still quite workable. Just focus on maintaining the recommended FC SLAM target.
 
Thanks Bo, much appreciated.

BoDarville said:
Welcome to TFP!

I would bring the pH down a tick to around 7.2 prior to the SLAM Process. Once you begin the SLAM, ignore pH - don't even test it until you finish the SLAM. The higher FC levels called for during a SLAM will skew the results of the pH test and you do not want to over-compensate.

Using Pool Math, I'm getting slightly different numbers, but both yours and mine are close enough and both will work. The SLAM target FC is just that - a target - not an absolute minimum or maximum. Going a point or two on either side of the target is fine.

Nope. Don't worry about TA until the pool is cleared up and the other parameters are within the ranges we recommend (tested after the SLAM of course). Your sole focus during the SLAM will be on maintaining FC as close to the target as you can.

Optional...I would only add water if it is needed for some other reason. If we are talking about a top-off, it will not impact CYA much, if at all. However, if you choose to do this, do it before you begin the SLAM. Your CYA is just slightly higher than what we recommend for a non-SWG pool, but it is still quite workable. Just focus on maintaining the recommended FC SLAM target.
Click to expand...
 
The ph is around 7.4. going to add more muratic acid and then a little later after one mix cycle start with the slam. sound okay

What is the reasoning for getting the PH lower for the slam?

not planning to filter, just recirculate

sound okay?
 
Ph measurements with FC over 10 ppm are not accurate. Since you will be at an elevated FC for an extended time during SLAM and ph has a natural tendency to rise lowering it helps ensure it doesn't rise too much and cause issues.

I usually maintain filter mode whenever I slam - at least once the bright green color changes to bluish gray. Since you have a 'very large sand filter' I would go ahead and filter and backwash after a 25% pressure rise. Sure you will lose some water backwashing, but sand filters can take a long time to clear all the dead algae. But if you want to wait running on recirculate will still kill the green monster.
 
pooldv said:
Pour slowly in front of a return with the pump running.

I have three returns, two at the deep end on the bottom and the skimmer. so, pour it infront of the skimmer?

Where is Zeeland?
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Zeeland is in SW Lower Michigan. Between Grand Rapids and Holland.

The slam call for 9 jugs with a FC target of 22. I put the 9 gallons in and recirculated for 2 hours and checked the FC
It went from 0.6(original) to 3.0 The target is 22. I went back to the pool math calculator and put in 3.0 and is says to add 8 jugs (121 oz). could it really need that much???
 

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I have now added 8 more gallons of bleach and after an hour my FC dropped from 3.0 to 2.5. I also checked for CC and that jumped up to 10.4! This does not seem to be making sense.
Can someone help!

My pool now has roughly 17 gallons of bleach in it. is that amount going to harm anything-like my liner?

could really use some advice.
 
Yes, the return is the jet where water is returned to the pool from the pump. That is the best place to pour the bleach. It is not good for your equipment to pour bleach into the skimmer. Here is more info about The Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.

Chlorine level is set based on the CYA level using this Chlorine CYA Chart. It is safe to swim as long as the chlorine level is between the minimum level and the shock level. And it will not hurt your liner.

CC is a result of the chlorine doing its job, it will burn off. Scoop as much debris out to speed up the process and will use less chlorine in the process. Also, brush a couple of times per day to expose the algae to chlorine and kill it faster.

Here is the process to SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool.
 
Yes, it is making sense. Like dv said CC is the result of the chlorine working. CC is not a direct (linear) result of FC working but it is a very good indication of where the FC is going. You should see CC start to taper off and stop climbing as you progress. And try not to think of it as 17 gals in your pool. You don't have 17 gals in there, you might have at one time but it is gone. Gone by working on the stuff you don't want in there like algae, ammonia, etc. It is normal to use 'absurd' amounts of chlorine, especially at the start of the SLAM.

Unfortunately, with a high CYA and a pool as big as yours you are going to use a lot of chlorine. Your FC measurements are the only indication of chlorine levels in your pool. Like you have seen, sometimes it is used up as soon as you pour it in. Just keep pouring it in slowly directly in front of the returns, wait 30 minutes and retest. Then keep adding to get to and stay at your 22 FC goal.

Usage is by far worse right at the front end, but it will slow down. Keep your levels at your target even if you feel like you just keep adding and adding. You will shave off several days of SLAMming being diligent at the beginning. You gave that algae a big knockdown punch, letting the FC drop off just gives it time to reestablish. Follow the SLAM process, it works. Good luck.
 
Thanks so much for the replies. I am so paranoid about doing something to hurt the equipment/liner (from I think the pool store propaganda).

Initially I put 9 gallons in and the FC only made it up to a high of 3. Added 8 more. It has dropped to 1.6 over night. I used the calculator to get pool volume of 37k. (22x40, 8'deep& 3'deep at the ends) The pool company gave me the volume after installation of 39,600.

I am puzzled why the FC only made it up to 3 when the target calculation was 22?

Should I add every hour until I bring it up to 22? That could mean 9 gallons every time. Does that sound right. I have read the slam and most of the site several times but I am just beginning this process I am cautious about the investment do not want to damage anything.

Just a side note, the taylor k0006 is great. easy to do and i feel confident about the readings.

I really appreciate the help you are giving me.
 
If you add the chlorine slowly in front of the return jet and only add the amount calculated by Pool Math to reach your target level you will not damage your equipment/liner.

From Pool School - "The goal of SLAMing is to add enough chlorine to oxidize all of the algae, combined chlorine, bacteria, viruses, ammonia, and other organic contaminates." The chlorine you added was used up doing its job. FC only made it up to 3 because in the couple hours between your chlorine addition and your follow up testing the chlorine was used up oxidizing the contaminates in your pool.

Robert71 said:
Should I add every hour until I bring it up to 22? That could mean 9 gallons every time. Does that sound right.
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Yes, that sounds right. I doubled checked the amount based on your pool volume. It's a lot of chlorine because you have a large pool and your cya is on the high end of the recommended levels.

Test every hour, add chlorine per Pool Math - and brush a lot!

It works and the water will be beautiful and clean when you're done.
 
Yes, test and add chlorine per Poolmath to get to shock level (with pump running) every hour or two at first until the chlorine starts to hold better. Pretty soon it will drop off a lot slower and you can test and add 2-3 times per day.
 
Still SLAMMING, but getting close. about 19 ppm after 3 hours with a goal of 22! Everything seems to be progressing like it should. Each time we are putting less and less in.

Just a couple of questions. It is a warm and sunny day...should we put the solar cover on to retain the chlorine?

Is it okay to use the robot to sweep the pool? On the shallow end the pump in the robot ripples the surface a little. will that reduce the chlorine level much?

There is no debris on the bottom at all, but we are seeing a brown/grey powder like dust accumulate on the corners and seams. We vacuum that out. is it dead algae or organic matter?

The Sand Dollar SD 80 filter has about 350 lbs of sand in it. before slamming I cleaned it with the hose, per the video on this site. still cloudy, but pressure is increasing after 8 hours to the point of backwash. any thoughts on how long it will take to clear after I hit the 22ppm target?
 
pooldv said:
Yes, test and add chlorine per Poolmath to get to shock level (with pump running) every hour or two at first until the chlorine starts to hold better. Pretty soon it will drop off a lot slower and you can test and add 2-3 times per day.
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After about 7 or 8 days into the slam some magic started to happen and within a few more days the pool became beautifully clear. I maintained the slam to 22ppm for a few more days until it held to 20ppm overnight. After that I let it come down to 8ppm where I am maintaining daily.

so here are the current readings

FC 8
CC 0
PH 7.2-7.4
TA 140
CH 160
CYA 70. The CYA is actually higher than the beginning test of 54 and it may have been a bad read trying to see the black dot disappear. Anyway I am holding the FC between 5 & 8 based on the CYA. I only used chlorine for the slam and not anything else.

Any suggestions/advice on the current balance and sanitation numbers.
The pool is beautiful and I really appreciate all of the help from all who commented with advice and for the great site.
 
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