Hayward SWG No longer working?

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SunkissedAdventures

SunkissedAdventures

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May 29, 2015
11
Boynton Beach, Florida
I am a newbie so excuse me if I don't have all the right info. Making the attempt to step away from pool store advice. The pool store guy told me that there is a way to determine when my salt cell was made by looking at the serial number? Is this true? We bought this home in December and the previous owners didnt leave us any info about the pool. Over the last few months we've come to the conclusion that they didn't maintain things very well. Supposedly my SWG is no longer generating cholrine?? Trying to figure out if its an old cell or what!

I will post the two pictures here for assistance.

IMG_0417_zpsmchhuxos.jpg


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Is one of the lights on the controller on or off that makes you thing it has stopped working?

also, that T9 is a bit undersized for a 21K gallon pool. It will have to work extra hard to supply enough chlorine.
If you have to replace the cell, it will worth it in the longrun to upgrade to a T15 cell.
 
Divin Dave said:
Is one of the lights on the controller on or off that makes you thing it has stopped working?

also, that T9 is a bit undersized for a 21K gallon pool. It will have to work extra hard to supply enough chlorine.
If you have to replace the cell, it will worth it in the longrun to upgrade to a T15 cell.
Click to expand...

I had my suspicions the cell is small for my pool's size.

My panel shows "check salt" and "inspect cell."
I added 40lbs of salt earlier today, and I am sure I need more. I'll have to pick some up tomorrow morning.

As far as diagnostics, I have been searching for a manual but can't find one. I don't know what each number means...

IMG_0419_zpsrtqvv9bn.jpg
 
Push the diagnostics button and post all of the readings. First, move the switch to off for 1 minute and then move the switch to auto. Wait two minutes and then push the button and record the numbers.

Also, have the salt level tested. Don't rely only on the box readout. I recommend getting a k-1766 salt test kit as well as a tf100 test kit.
 
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I'll get the hang of this eventually and I probably wont sound like such an idiot!

- - - Updated - - -

Divin Dave said:
I dont know if its just the light or what, but it doesnt look like the green POWER light is on?
can you confirm for us that the Power light is on or is it off?
Click to expand...

It's on. The hot Florida sun beaming down and the angle of my picture made it seem like it wasn't.

Going to get the diagnostics now!
 

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Is that with the switch in the "auto" position?

Also, note that the unit is set to metric. To change to standard, go to temp (showing 33 C) and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

The average salt is showing 1.1 grams per liter, which should change to 1,100 ppm when you switch to standard mode. That's too low and will cause the unit to shut down. See what the instant salt says and compare it to an independent reliable salt test.

33 c is 91f. Is your water that warm?
 
JamesW said:
Is that with the switch in the "auto" position?

Also, note that the unit is set to metric. To change to standard, go to temp (showing 33 C) and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

The average salt is showing 1.1 grams per liter, which should change to 1,100 ppm when you switch to standard mode. That's too low and will cause the unit to shut down. See what the instant salt says and compare it to an independent reliable salt test.

33 c is 91f. Is your water that warm?
Click to expand...

Yes, switch was in auto.

Thanks, I just switched it out of Celsius! I appreciate all of the guidance. I know I sound like an idiot right now, I just don't want the pool to be too far gone by the time I figure out how all of this works. Placing an order for testing kit tonight.

Yeah, my pool is that warm. I live in south Florida, no screen enclosure, and get direct son all day long in my backyard. I am thankful that I don't need a heater :)
 
You dont sound like an idiot. You're doing just fine.
Lots of us use AquaCheck salt test strips to test the salt level. This should give you at least some indication if your Salt is actually low, as your SWG system indicates, or there is a problem with the T9 cell.

Alternately, as much as I loathe pool stores, they could also test your salt level which would be somewhat accurate.

Personally, I have a Taylor K1766 salt test kit just for the sake of sanity and having a good test result. (The TF100 and Taylor K2006 dont have salt test included).
 
Try this:

Move the switch to off for 5 minutes.
Then move the switch to auto
Wait until you hear a click and then scroll through the diagnostics

In any case, you need to have the salt level tested before adding any more.

Use liquid chlorine or regular 8.25% sodium hypochlorite bleach until you get the salt system operational.
 
An update. I had the pool store test my water, and I explained that I need it to determine some issues with Hayward. According to the pool store my salt is at 3,400 but my board only reads 1500. So hopefully I can get some more answers today when I call them. Hoping my system is under warranty if there is an issue with the ell or board. I have to put my son down for a nap or I can't talk on the phone. Two year olds can be demanding! I'll update more later when I get more info.
 
You need to remove the cell from the plumbing and inspect it for a white buildup on the plates inside the cell. This buildup is calcium and must be removed with water and muriatic acid at a 4 to 1 solution.
 

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