Differences in chem test results

It is much better to use muriatic acid.

Did you have your TA set in PoolMath as that impacts the pH calculation.

Also I see a dreaded Nature 2 in your pictures. We do NOT recommend adding minerals/metals to your pool as you could stain your new plaster and turn your hair green. I highly recommend you remove the minerals from the canister.
I don't think there is any minerals in there but ill double check. I'm pretty sure the only reason they put the nature 2 in is for the month before the salt goes in. Kind of a waste of money but I didn't know what I know now when we started the build.

Pool math tells me that with a TA of 160ppm, 9lbs should have taken me to like a 7.4, but it's still off the charts at a 8.5+.

I'll switch to MA after I use up this last dry acid.
 
Thanks I'll check it out and make sure there's no mineral pack in there.

I'm going to add the CYA and chlorine tomorrow. How much will that lower the PH? I don't want add too much acid now and have the PH dip too low.

Don't let other people do the calculations for you, use PoolMath it's an amazing resource. At the bottom of the page you can enter in different amounts of chemicals (usually by weight) and it will calculate the effects on your water's pH, TA, salt, etc.
 
Ok so I checked the nature 2 and it does have a mineral pack, but I can't figure out how to remove it.

The cartridge in built into the lid, so I can't take it out without removing the whole lid. Can I buy just a lid with no cartidge?
 
It is your pool ... there is nothing he can yell at you about. :mrgreen:
Exactly!

I just added the trichlor tabs and CYA this morning.

I'm a little worried that the month of trichlor combined with my CYA calculations on pool math will push the CYA a little too high. I've been doing calculations at 28000 gallons but I have a feeling the pool is a little less than that.

Is a high CYA at 90-110 for a SWG really a big deal?
 

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Is a high CYA at 90-110 for a SWG really a big deal?
It can be. Fighting algae with elevated CYA can get expensive. I was lucky in that when I got my pool with 200+ CYA it was clear. I was fanatical about keeping my FC up so nothing could get a foot hold and over a little more than years period I have it down to 40.

100 is the limit of the CYA test, so at this level we are unsure if it is 100 or some number above 100. Don't equate “just a little over 100” to a number, the tube is not marked for such extrapolation.
 
It can be. Fighting algae with elevated CYA can get expensive. I was lucky in that when I got my pool with 200+ CYA it was clear. I was fanatical about keeping my FC up so nothing could get a foot hold and over a little more than years period I have it down to 40.

100 is the limit of the CYA test, so at this level we are unsure if it is 100 or some number above 100. Don't equate “just a little over 100” to a number, the tube is not marked for such extrapolation.
Well the pool was just filled with municipal water, and when I did the CYA test this morning (before adding the stabilizer) the dot never disappeared so I'm assuming the CYA was at 0.

I added 16lbs stabilizer per the builders recommendations. Per pool math, that should take the CYA to 68 for a 28k gallon pool. Which would be fine, as long as the Trichlor doesn't add more than 10 CYA the first month. However if the pool is less than 28k, those numbers will be higher which is my concern.
 
Yeah, I would not have added nearly that much stabilizer since you effectively have a non-SWG pool for a month. Maybe 30ppm and then used the tablets to maintain FC and slowly raise the CYA some more.

How did you add it? Hopefully in a sock like we recommend so you can take it out.

Keep an eye on the FC/CYA Chart.
 
Typical trichlor tabs weigh 8oz each and, if they are good quality, they are 99% trichlor. In my pool, it takes ~4 pucks to raise the stabilizer by 9ppm.

I think you over did it on the stabilizer a bit.


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Just my 2-cent, know-nothing, low-priority opinion here -

Are those metal (brass) or plastic spigots on your pipes? I may be in the minority on this but, if they are metal, I, personally, would take them off and put on cheaper plastic ones. I know the plastic ones are more prone to failure and leaks, but I'd prefer that to a possible source of metal contamination.

I am glad to see they put spigots on. A lot of PB's put them on for pressure testing and then remove them later. I like having mine on for extra, slow draining capabilities....
 
Yea I probably overdid it. Added directly to skimmer so it's gonna be a 1 way street. I need to read here more before blindly following pool builders recommendations.

How much water replacement does it typically take to lower the CYA 10-20? Is it something that will lower over time with backwashing?
 
The CYA will slowly come down with splashout and backwashing, etc.
It is lowered by the same % of the water you replace.

Have you tested the CYA level yet? You might be able to clean the filter and remove some before it dissolves.

Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 
I didn't test again because I read it can take up to a week to dissolve.

Should I backwash to try and remove some?

I would think that, rather then blindly flushing water out of your pool and not knowing where you are at CYA, it would probably just be more appropriate to use bleach chlorination instead of any pucks and maintain a proper FC/CYA ratio. Eventually you are going to turn on your SWCG and then having 68ppm CYA will be more than adequate (I keep my pool at 70ppm).

Tell your PB that your using pucks and just use bleach instead.

- - - Updated - - -

Exactly!

I just added the trichlor tabs and CYA this morning.

I'm a little worried that the month of trichlor combined with my CYA calculations on pool math will push the CYA a little too high. I've been doing calculations at 28000 gallons but I have a feeling the pool is a little less than that.

Is a high CYA at 90-110 for a SWG really a big deal?

TFP recommends 70-90ppm. I keep mine at 70ppm. 90ppm means a higher FC which means, ultimately, running your SWCG harder. Anything over 100ppm is asking for trouble. I worked on a pool with a 150ppm CYA level and the SWCG just could not produce enough FC to stay within the TFP Recommended levels. The pool eventually went cloudy when the warm weather hit and I had to do a partial drain to get the CYA down.

70ppm works great for me. 70-90ppm is your target.
 

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