Aquapure SWG not making chlorine. Salt test/sensor accuracy?

Azmp1

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 20, 2012
311
Maryland
Hi folks,
So I have a newly installed Jandy Aquapure 1400 (installed last weekend). All the lights are on as appropriate (flow, cell on/cell resting/cell reversing are sycling as appropriate.) No errors are being thrown at all. the only problem is that no chlorine is being produced as I'm testing the water directly coming out of the return and getting zero.
I tested with Aquapure being on boost at 100%.
So the Aquapure sensor is telling me my salinity is at 3300ppm which should be enough salt, right? Well, the taylor salt kit I have shows 3000ppm. I have no idea which is correct... To make the things even worse, I took my sample to two different pool stores and both told my salinity was at 2500 and 2600ppm respectively which now definitely isn't enough.
So which ones do I trust here? I don't usually trust the store testing, but now tend to go. I just don't want to dump more salt and then be too too high.
I'm stomped.
My levels as of right now:
FC 1.2
CC 1.8
PH 7.5
TA 110
CH 250
CYA 65
Also I asked the pool store to do the phosphate test and that came back to rather high to over 125. I believe I still have something growing in my pool (though my water looks great) as I'm eating through chlorine like crazy (using my old trichlore puck), but that a different topic.







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The salt reading of the SWG is what matters as far as it functioning. Is that CC level correct?

If you think there is something in the pool, then you need to follow the SLAM process.
 
Don't worry about the salt level, the SWG says it is good and that is what matters. All salt tests are +-400.

What your pool needs is to go through a SLAM process, high CC and can't hold chlorine = SLAM. There are lots of threads similar to your situation right now and they all have clear looking water but nascent algae is consuming the chlorine and the SWG can't make the FC quick enough to get ahead of the algae. After the SLAM if the SWG is not making chlorine then we can go from there, but I have a feeling all will be fine.
 
Thanks i was planning to SLAM the pool on Sunday as the weather will get colder. And I finally just got my DPD test in today.
And I certainly hear what you're saying about the chlorine being eaten up too quickly, but I was testing right outta of the return. Even cracked the union on the SWG outflow side t get some water out and I'm reading 0. How can that be?


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Yes FAS-DPD. I just gone ahead a grabbed a full k-2006 kit as I was running low on about half the chemicals anyway.

So... After adding two more bags of salt I think it's now working. I tested directly on bathe outflow of SWG again and getting chlorine! BUT..... Now I'm getting a lot of air small air bubbles coming as well as white flakes! I assume they're calcium flakes? Why would I be getting them as my CH Is at good levels. Also what's up with the air bubbles?
And finally I just tested my water with the new FAS-DPD kit and getting pretty much no FC, but about 1ppm of CC.
Will be definitely SLAMing this Sunday. Got 10 gallons on 12% liquid chlorine at Lelsies today.
I'll post up the results.

Also should i have the SWG on, or just turn it off for now?


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My SWG releases a lot of air bubbles to the pool too ... it is fairly normal.

The flakes are buildup from the cell plates. The pH most likely was allowed to get too high in the past.

We recommend the SWG be off for the SLAM ... why not start now?
 
Got Ya on the air bubbles, I guess it's also an indication that it's working? As before there was definitely none. Btw, both the Aquapure and the taylor salt kit is now reporting 3600ppm. Should I add more?
As for the flakes, how can it be build up, the cell is brand new! Unless it was able to build up that quickly since in less then a week?
I would SLAM today, but we're leaving tonight and would not be back until Sunday night and I would like to be here to be able to check and the colder weather I think should help.


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That salt level seems fine. Why would you need more?

I don't know.. Lol. Just have no more faith in the reading from the sensor and the Taylor kit. But I suppose as long as it's working it's ok.

Any idea on the flakes though? Could it really build up in just one week on the brand new unit? Plus my pH Has actually been on the low side since I opened the pool.


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Another question in a mean time. Just got done reading the pool chem for salt pools and few other threads and obviously high ph is a big problem for SWG chem as well as life of the cell. But what about low ph? My ph has been around 7.2 as I've been trying to get my TA down, which Ofcourse bringing my ph down as well. Is consistent low ph also presents a big problem for salt pool/SWG or not as much?


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Don't worry about the TA before the SLAM.

PH in the 7.2-7.8 range is fine for a SWG.

When the calcium level is in the recommended range, keeping the pH in the 7.5-7.8 range will tend to keep the pH stable longer than being at 7.2-7.5 range. It's when the calcium level is high it is necessary to keep the pH in the lower 7's to prevent calcium scaling. When the TA is in the 60-80 range, the pH will rise slower or even completely stabilize it.
 
Understood. Thank you. Will keep you guys posted as I SLAM tomorrow.

Problems or not, doesn't stop the kids from enjoying the beautiful Saturday afternoon!
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Started the SLAM today.
Pre SLAM number in the morning were
FC 0.2
CC 0.8
PH 7.2
TA 120
CH 260
CYA 65
Water is still crystal clear.

Dumped 5 gallons of 12% bleach per pool math (it called for 560oz to get up to 28ppm per the CYA/chlorine table)
Just tested and got FC - 22ppm. Should I get more in to get to 28ppm ASAP, or just wait to see how it drops and add more later? I have an autocover closed so that should prevent the sun lose.
The plan is to be checking every few hours and do an OCLT overnight.
I guess the main question I still have that im not sure about is do I need to make sure I keep the level up to 28ppm for a specific amount of time? and do I still need to brush/vaccum since my pool is perfectly clean?
 
So in just few hours the FC levels are down to 10ppm. And that's with a closed cover! I'm about to put another 5 gallons in. Didn't think I had that big of a problem...


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