Help with electrical wiring new dual speed pump

hanesian

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 10, 2013
49
Eagan, Minnesota
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I'm in the process of replacing my ancient single speed pump with a new dual speed one (Pentaire Superflo Dual Speed 1 HP). I'm good on the plumbing side and I'm pretty comfortable on the electrical, but would appreciate feedback/confirmation that my understanding & plan is correct, or suggested corrections. Here's the scoop.

Both the old and the new pump are 230V, and the existing electrical to the pump looks like this: 4 lines - green, yellow and two blues, one of which has had the blue wrap removed to expose white casing, so I'll call it blue/white.

image.jpg1_zpskf6dyttq.jpg


Schematic on the existing pump:

image.jpg2_zpsjljdn4pf.jpg


Pretty dirty inside, but here is the existing wiring: Green - ground, Yellow - A, Blue/white to B, and second blue not connected but just capped off with twist on connector.

image.jpg3_zpsgtqqofez.jpg


Now, moving on to the new pump. Following are shots of the new pump and schematic.

image.jpg4_zpsrp3ih7aj.jpg


image.jpg5_zpswmubzwym.jpg


And the toggle switch:

image.jpg6_zpsw8jfone2.jpg


1. Obviously the green is the ground, but I'm looking for reassurance that for 230 the yellow connects to terminal 1, and the blue/white to the middle black line on the switch. Is this correct?

2. Is the 'extra' blue line there IF I wanted to wire it as 110V instead of 230V, but since I'm sticking with 230V it should continue to be unused/capped?

3. Switch wiring: The yellow on the switch to terminal 2, and the white to terminal 3 or 4; and as stated above, the black on the switch to blue/white line.

I hope I explained that clearly enough, but if not let me know and I'll try again!

Thanks very much for any feedback!
 
Sounds like you are correct
Odd that there are 4 lines. You would still only need 3 for the 115V wiring.
The 4 lines could have allowed you to run the 2 speeds from a remote toggle switch or by automation.
 
Are you certain the existing motor is hooked to a 240 volt circuit? Where do these wires come from, circuit breaker box or a junction box or an automation box? I ask, because the wiring seems to be a bit non-standard.

Edit
OK, just went back and looked at the old motor connections and see that it is wired as a 240 volt. The "cap" on the black wire looks like it will need to be cut off. Either of your hot leads can connect to the black switch wire and the other hot lead to the #1 terminal. The switch wiring is as you thought.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.