Gas Heater Venting and Changes (Header)

[Shaf77]

Hi!

We have a Raypak PR266 EN 266,000 BTU Gas heater.

Since completing the pool build a couple of years ago, we had a pool cabana built that is 12/x19 and also encloses all the pool equipment. We did this to help with keeping the pool equipment covered and hopefully last longer.

A few questions / issues I have run into now.

1. Venting the Gas heater - Was looking on Raypak's site and they have a power vented heater that has a fan and reducing the almost 9" vent to 4". We plan to vent through the roof and I was wondering if we could not just use a 9" conduit and reduce it to 4" at the exit instead of the power vent? The power vent shows us as costing $500!!

Raypak Residential Pool Heaters - D-2 Power Vent


2. Turning the heater around - The front of the heater is facing the back wall of the cabana where there is very little access Was wondering if I can turn the heater to face forward. I would need to reverse the water headers and maybe the gas line.. Or the gas line can stay where it is and we just reverse the water headers.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Here is a pic of the setup.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

 

[stebs]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

You will need the power vent in your situation... Most headers you can move the water headers to opposite side, manual should explain how to do it... And judging by your pic, looks like a plumber should be able to shorten that gas line and bring it in on the opposite side...

 

[ps0303]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Yes you can reverse the header. Remove the side panels, remove the wiring for the sensors and remove the temp sensor from its well, unbolt the headers, swap them around, and then re install everything rerouting your cabling. Just keep in mind that when you do this, the inlet is now in the back so you will have to change the piping around. Also, I would recommend that you move the salt chlorinator further down the line from the heater. Not sure why a company would put it so close to the heater.

As for the gas line, it would need to be shortened to come back in it's existing hole or you would have to cut a new hole in the cabinet and extend the piping inside.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

You will need the power vent in your situation... Most headers you can move the water headers to opposite side, manual should explain how to do it... And judging by your pic, looks like a plumber should be able to shorten that gas line and bring it in on the opposite side...

Yes you can reverse the header. Remove the side panels, remove the wiring for the sensors and remove the temp sensor from its well, unbolt the headers, swap them around, and then re install everything rerouting your cabling. Just keep in mind that when you do this, the inlet is now in the back so you will have to change the piping around. Also, I would recommend that you move the salt chlorinator further down the line from the heater. Not sure why a company would put it so close to the heater.

As for the gas line, it would need to be shortened to come back in it's existing hole or you would have to cut a new hole in the cabinet and extend the piping inside.

I had a gas guy from a local pool company come in today.

He said that the heater needs to be turned around, plumbing changed, headers changed to other side and gas line re-done to other side.

As for the venting he says he would put in a 7" draft hood, Install 7" B vent. B-C 2-5' vent, roof flashing, rain collar. He also said he would nee to install to room air vents/grates.

He said we do NOT need a power vent.. hmm..

He quoted $1450 for all this! Wow.

I am sure I can do the heater reversal and plumbing myself and get a gas guy to shorted the line.

However - am confused as to why he would not use a power vent and just reduce the 7" to 4"...

ps0303 - Please can you elaborate on why the SWCG needs to move?

 

[ps0303]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

I had a gas guy from a local pool company come in today.

He said that the heater needs to be turned around, plumbing changed, headers changed to other side and gas line re-done to other side.

As for the venting he says he would put in a 7" draft hood, Install 7" B vent. B-C 2-5' vent, roof flashing, rain collar. He also said he would nee to install to room air vents/grates.

He said we do NOT need a power vent.. hmm..

He quoted $1450 for all this! Wow.

I am sure I can do the heater reversal and plumbing myself and get a gas guy to shorted the line.

However - am confused as to why he would not use a power vent and just reduce the 7" to 4"...

ps0303 - Please can you elaborate on why the SWCG needs to move?

I don't like made up pieces and parts where the manufacturer has something to do the job. I would consider the power vent and then let him attach the correct B vent to it.

As for the SWCG, it's way too close for my liking to the return on the heater. It is much better to have it further down the pipe. I would come out of the heater, elbow down to the floor, run s short piece with elbow and then add in the SWCG, then another short piece, elbow back up. Now you can figure out a way to use a 45 maybe so you have one less elbow.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

I don't like made up pieces and parts where the manufacturer has something to do the job. I would consider the power vent and then let him attach the correct B vent to it.

As for the SWCG, it's way too close for my liking to the return on the heater. It is much better to have it further down the pipe. I would come out of the heater, elbow down to the floor, run s short piece with elbow and then add in the SWCG, then another short piece, elbow back up. Now you can figure out a way to use a 45 maybe so you have one less elbow.

Thanks for your help.

As for the venting - why would they not use a power vent? Can this unit really just be vented by reducing it?

If so then why not just leave the door and windows open in the cabana and forget about even spending money on venting?

Pic of cabana...

 

[ps0303]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Nice cabana. I'm a bit skeptical about not using the power vent. Maybe I'm just used to them always being used in commercial applications where needed.

Code dictates when and how an appliance is to be vented. Sorry but open windows and doors isn't code.

 

[stebs]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Here's the main question you need to ask yourself.... Is it not worth the expense to do it right with the power vent and have peace of mind in knowing that it's not rigged and possibly lethal to you or someone else?

 

[tim5055]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

I agree with using the power vent. As to venting to bring make up air into the room, check the units installation instructions They will usually have a formula for how many square/cubic feet must be in the room to provide make up air. if you fall below that, you will have to put vents in the wall.

 

[danpik]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Thanks for your help.


If so then why not just leave the door and windows open in the cabana and forget about even spending money on venting?

If the gas co in your area is anything like mine and finds it that way you will have the gas shut off at the meter, red tag applied with a lock and an order to have the entire system repaired by a certified gas fitter. $$$$$$$$.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Man.. Building this cabana over the pad has turned into a costly issue.

So, If I turn the heater myself, then get a power vent and install, can all this be DIY? Except for the gas line re-connect?

As for the SWCG - I am still not clear as to why having it where it was installed is wrong. Please can someone help explain? Why does it need to be further?

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Just wanted to say thank you to all that helped me on this thread.

I have turned the hearet, plumbing and wiring around.

Now just need the gas guy to come in and reconnect the gas line for me and do the vent.

Does everything look ok?

 

[ps0303]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Looks better but I think you have your in/out piping backwards. If the header is flipped correctly, the "in" would be in the back and "out" would be in the front. Check the header as there should be little arrows imprinted on it as to which way the flow goes.

 

[LFrankow]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

I had a gas guy from a local pool company come in today.

He said that the heater needs to be turned around, plumbing changed, headers changed to other side and gas line re-done to other side.

As for the venting he says he would put in a 7" draft hood, Install 7" B vent. B-C 2-5' vent, roof flashing, rain collar. He also said he would nee to install to room air vents/grates.

He said we do NOT need a power vent.. hmm..

He quoted $1450 for all this! Wow.

Installation of any gas appliance or plumbing system is always subject to the local Authorities Authorization. The local gas guys will know what he can and cannot do. Where I live out west ( Alberta ) the unit had to be turned as the inspectors require two feet of access to the front of any gas appliances, just to ease servicing.
Reading the units manual it actually states Canadian gas code as it applies to normally aspirated venting situation, so it should work with a draft hood. If the manual and the local gas guy who deals with the local Inspector almost daily, says it will work in a safe manner, no doubt they have installed and approved a few of these boilers. The local gas guy will be taking out the permit and by doing that has to insure it will work right.
About the cost even after being a plumber/gasfitter/steamfitter for over 30 years, my bills still scare me it adds up quickly.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Looks better but I think you have your in/out piping backwards. If the header is flipped correctly, the "in" would be in the back and "out" would be in the front. Check the header as there should be little arrows imprinted on it as to which way the flow goes.

Oh man. I flipped the plumbing as you had suggested.

Here is how the flow was / is.

Before - Skimmer / Main Drain -> Pump -> Filter -> Heater -> SWCG -> Returns to pool

After - Skimmer / Main Drain -> Pump -> Filter -> Heater -> SWCG -> Returns to Pool

HOWEVER, I do see that the arrow is wrong. I flipped the headers, and flipped the plumbing so that the water from the filer was coming in through the front of the heater.

Is the in always at the front or do I follow the arrow? Since it was flipped, would the arrow not be wrong now?? Am so confused and upset that I would have to re-do...

Now what? Do I have to cut and re-do all the plumbing again??

 

[ps0303]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Follow the arrows. That's why they have them marked. It has to flow in the direction of them. Sorry, re-do. You just need two couplers to correct this.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Follow the arrows. That's why they have them marked. It has to flow in the direction of them. Sorry, re-do. You just need two couplers to correct this.

Thanks again. So previously the in arrow was in front. Now it's at the back. Is that right?

I think I'll need only one coupler.

I can disconnect, move the heater forward 5 inches so inlet matches the arrow. Then only have to cut the line that has the swcg shorter and use one coupler.

I can move the heater since I have the space and also since the gas line is not connected. Does that make sense?

Need a sanity check.

 

[Shaf77]

Re: Question Gas Heater Venting and Changes

Here's what I have done. I disconnected the plumbing. Moved the heater a few inches to the front. Connected the plumbing from the filter to the inlet of the heater (following the arrow).

Now I assume I just shortern one side of the other plumbing and I should be good?

Please can you confirm if this will be ok, before I cut and get one more coupling?

Thanks!!!

 

[ps0303]

Yes looks like it should. Inlet in the back and the return on the front.

 

[Shaf77]

Yes looks like it should. Inlet in the back and the return on the front.

Thanks Paul.

In hindsight I didn't need to do any plumbing work. All the cuts, coupling, glue, etc were not needed since the inlet is still in the back and the return in the front.

Picked up one more coupling just now and will cut the return shorter and set it up.