We are converting from Baquacil. We removed all the Baquacil with a non chlorine shock, confirmed by pool store test. I have been trying unsuccessfully to balance the pool chemistry. I have been adding about a gallon of 8.25% bleach twice a day as recommended by pool math to bring the FC level to shock levels, 11+, but have never seen a reading above 1.5. CYA is now 60. Pool has been crystal clear but today it is the bright green color it turns as I add the bleach. I am at a loss about what to try next.
CC 4.0 and climbing
- Thread starter grahahw
- Start date
Welcome to TFP, 
Ok, so are you testing yourself, or using the store readings? You say the Cya is now 60, so what Chlorine source are you using?
Ok, so are you testing yourself, or using the store readings? You say the Cya is now 60, so what Chlorine source are you using?
8.25% liquid bleach,
I am using a Talylor FAS/DPD chlorine test
Am I correct in assuming the pool is currently unsafe to swim in?
I am using a Talylor FAS/DPD chlorine test
Am I correct in assuming the pool is currently unsafe to swim in?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
grahahw, with your test kit, you should be able to list a more accurate number of FC - not just 11+. That's very important because to SLAM properly, you/we need to know "exactly" what your true FC level is based on the Chlorine/CYA chart for SLAM and your pool (link below). Just adding 2 gallons of bleach twice a day may actually not be meeting the required FC level for SLAM. Might be a good idea to also post your other test readings so the readers can see all of them - most notably (FC, CC, TA, PH, and CYA).
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You will not want to be in the pool when you are SLAMming. The chlorine level will be too high.
- - - Updated - - -
You will not want to be in the pool when you are SLAMming. The chlorine level will be too high.
the 11+ was just the tfp target for shock level FC.
I have never seen an FC reading higher than 1.5
Pool math keeps telling me to add roughly a gallon of 8.25% bleach every time I test. Is that the wrong amount?
I don't have the other values here with me but they were all near their targets
I have never seen an FC reading higher than 1.5
Pool math keeps telling me to add roughly a gallon of 8.25% bleach every time I test. Is that the wrong amount?
I don't have the other values here with me but they were all near their targets
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Lets' see if we can help you some more..... If your CYA reading is correct as noted above (60), then the chlorine/CYA chart shows a "minimum" FC SLAM level of 24 required. So when you do SLAM, you have to keep your FC at/above 24 until you meet ALL of the following:
A. CC is 0.5 or lower;
B. You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
C. And the water is clear.
You MUST meet all three. No shortcuts.
Continue to enter all of your pool info into the Poolmath Calculator (link in my signature). Ensure you enter the "NOW" and "TARGET" numbers and then look to the details on the right for amounts required. You have to be real vigilant with SLAM and bleach at first because your pool may be eating-up all the new bleach (chlorine) shortly after you dump it in. But stay with it. Also, once you post all of your test readings we should be able to get a better picture of your overall water chemistry,
A. CC is 0.5 or lower;
B. You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
C. And the water is clear.
You MUST meet all three. No shortcuts.
Continue to enter all of your pool info into the Poolmath Calculator (link in my signature). Ensure you enter the "NOW" and "TARGET" numbers and then look to the details on the right for amounts required. You have to be real vigilant with SLAM and bleach at first because your pool may be eating-up all the new bleach (chlorine) shortly after you dump it in. But stay with it. Also, once you post all of your test readings we should be able to get a better picture of your overall water chemistry,
Did you follow the conversion procedures on the site? If you just added MPS to get rid of your baqa then you probably still have some hiding in your pool eating your FC quickly and spitting out CC. Also have you replaced your sand? It is highly encouraged to do so with a conversion as a lot of baqua-goo can remain, causing ongoing filtering issues.
Here is the link to the Conversion Process if you haven't seen it already. It sounds like you might need to start from the beginning and treat your pool like it is still a baquacil pool until you pass steps 7 and 8.
Here is the link to the Conversion Process if you haven't seen it already. It sounds like you might need to start from the beginning and treat your pool like it is still a baquacil pool until you pass steps 7 and 8.
I see your site recommends replacing the filter sand after depleting the Baquacil. Does that apply when non chlorine shock is used to burn off the Baquacil? The pool store recommended the shock but made no mention of changing the filter sand
I'm gonna shoot straight with you, please don't interpret bluntness as negativity towards you. If anything, it is towards the pool store.
Non-chlorine shock does not magically make the baqua disappear. Your inability to hold FC and CC readings indicate that there is still baqua in your pool that it is reacting to. As for the pool store not mentioning changing the filter sand, no surprise there. Right now your best bet is to go back to the start and treat your pool like it is still full of baqua and go through the process I posted above, except since your CYA is 60 then you need to target 24 for a shock level, not 15.
Alternatively, with a pool that size it might be cheaper to just dump the water and start fresh. You will still need to change your filter sand and the residual baqua in your hoses will cause some minor FC demand, but nothing major.
Also, when you say green, do you mean cloudy green or clear green? Actually, this is a pretty important question, could you answer this before you do anything else?
Non-chlorine shock does not magically make the baqua disappear. Your inability to hold FC and CC readings indicate that there is still baqua in your pool that it is reacting to. As for the pool store not mentioning changing the filter sand, no surprise there. Right now your best bet is to go back to the start and treat your pool like it is still full of baqua and go through the process I posted above, except since your CYA is 60 then you need to target 24 for a shock level, not 15.
Alternatively, with a pool that size it might be cheaper to just dump the water and start fresh. You will still need to change your filter sand and the residual baqua in your hoses will cause some minor FC demand, but nothing major.
Also, when you say green, do you mean cloudy green or clear green? Actually, this is a pretty important question, could you answer this before you do anything else?
the water is a clear green. not visible particulate. something in solution in the water
:cop: Stop everything :cop:
Clear green usually means metals in the water. What source do you use to fill your pool? A well by chance?
Clear green usually means metals in the water. What source do you use to fill your pool? A well by chance?
i don't know where the truck that originally filled the pool got it from but we get our water from a small community well which serves 60 houses.
The water is chlorinated but not fluoridated
This color has appeared every time I have added chlorine, but until today always disappeared within a few hours
The pool is 4 years old and has never been this color before
Do metals have problems in chlorine pools which are not seen in baquacil pools?
The water is chlorinated but not fluoridated
This color has appeared every time I have added chlorine, but until today always disappeared within a few hours
The pool is 4 years old and has never been this color before
Do metals have problems in chlorine pools which are not seen in baquacil pools?
Everything I said about baqua remaining and needing to change the sand is still true, but if it is turning a bright clear green when you add chlorine then it sounds like you have a separate metal issue. I'm not an expert on metals in water (luckily), but here is the pool school article. All of this makes me think it would be a good idea to have new water trucked in. It will solve your baqua issues, metal issues, and get you started on the right foot. Hopefully others with more metal experience will throw their 2 cents in as well.
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