Newbie w/ First Test Results and Questions

[Cayman]

Hello everyone!! I have finally moved into my new house and did my first test today using the TF100 Test Kit. Below are my results.

FC - 7
PH - 8.2
TA - 80
CH - 330
CYA - 10
Salt - 2710
Borates - 15
Temp - 74

I obviously know that my FC & PH are high and my CYA, Salt & Borates are low. I will get these corrected using the Jason's Pool Calculator.

Here are my questions...

1) When testing my TA, after 8 drops it turned a light pink but more of a red after 9. The instructions were looking for Red so which one should I use?

2) My Mineral Springs Unit has a "Sanitizer Output Control %" dial that was set at about 80%. I am assuming that controls the FC basically in my pool by converting the salt to chlorine. After these tests, I dropped that to 50% for now. Should that be a good place to start to bring down the FC?

3) When testing the CYA, I added the mixed sample into the vial but was able to see the black dot even while the vial was full. It was harder to see and bacame cloudier, but I was still able to see it looking down into it. Did I maybe do something wrong or is my CYA just that low?


I also have the details from the SWG unit that it displays as you go through the menus....

In order...

74 - Temp I know
26.0
5.50
96p
-2800
AL -3
r 1.40
2800

Not sure what these are right now or if they help but figured it can’t hurt to provide them.

Well please share your thoughts and opinions. In the meantime, I am off to Jason's Pool Calculator to get things corrected.

Thanks guys!!!

 

[JasonLion]

1) Your TA is 90. The TA test runs till the color stops changing. After the color starts changing, when you add a drop and the color doesn't change any further you are done and you don't count the drop that didn't change the color.

2) You have the right idea. Be sure you measure your FC level at the same time of day each time you measure it, preferably in the early evening. One thing to keep in mind is that the percentage will need to go down much further when your CYA level starts to come up.

3) You simply don't have much CYA. We normally call that test result zero, though 10 is as good a guess as any. You need to get your CYA level up soon. The SWG is not nearly as good at keeping the pool sanitized when the CYA level is that low. The FC level will tend to swing drastically over the course of a day at low CYA levels and the chemistry is generally less stable with a SWG running at low CYA levels.

 

[duraleigh]

Just for reinforcement, Jason's got you headed down the right path.

Go ahead and be very proactive at getting your pH down into the lower 7's with muriatic acid....sooner rather than later.

The CYA test confuses many when you first use it but it will soon become second nature to you.

 

[Cayman]

OK... So here were my previous results...

FC - 7
CC - 0
PH - 8.2
TA - 80
CH - 330
CYA - 10
Salt - 2710
Borates - 15
Temp - 74

I added 50 Lbs. Salt - 8 Lbs. Stabilizer - 152 Oz. Borax - Approx. 30 Oz. Muranic Acid on Saturday. Here are my results from tonight....

FC - 4
CC - 1.5
PH - 7.8
TA - 130
CH - 370
CYA - 60
Salt - 3200
Borates - 30
Temp - 72


While some of these results are looking better, I am a little concerned about the TA andf CH. I am not sure what triggered these up just from the 3 things I added. The water started to have a slight green tint to it now instead of the bright blue that it was. This is what triggered me to test everything again.

Any thoughts on what I should do not and in what order? I am using the pool calculator too to help. I just dont want to make things worse before better.

HELP!!! LOL

 

[JasonLion]

I wouldn't worry too much about your TA and CH. They are both a little high for no apparent reason, but not so high that I would expect problems. You didn't mention doing anything that would have raised TA or CH, so I wonder if there could be testing error involved in one test or the other. Give it another day or two and test them again and see if you are getting consistent results.

I would worry about CC being 1.5. If that result is correct you will need to shock the pool. You should do the FC/CC test again and double check that result first.

 

[Cayman]

Based on my current numbers, what would be causing the slight green tint? The CC? The pool is very clear and sparkly but it is just not as blue as it was since the green tint is there.

Also, I noticed last night that when I had the pool light on and looked in front of it from above, I could see a ton a particles floating in front of the light. Not sure if this is important or not but thought I would mention it. I am currently running the pool 10 hours a day.

I am going to find that article about the electonic mixer/stirer that waterbear wrote up and see how much one of those cost. I think it would be a good investment to help ensure accurate test results each time.

Thanks guys!!

 

[duraleigh]

Based on my current numbers, what would be causing the slight green tint? The CC? The pool is very clear and sparkly but it is just not as blue as it was since the green tint is there.

Your first test reported CC 0 and your second reported CC 1.5. The CC of 1.5 indicates a need to shock your pool.

The green is almost surely caused by algae. Bring your FC up to shock level and HOLD IT THERE until the green disappears. Based on your description and tests, it will probably only take a day or two to clear the pool but it is important that you get to shock level and HOLD IT THERE until your pool clears. There are several pertinent articles in pool school about shocking, FC and clearing an algae laden pool.

The possibiity of the green coming from copper exists but is is very rare and I would not consider it until you have properly shocked the pool.

The "floaties" at night and your other issues, as Jason said, are not particularly relevant to curing your green pool.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

You've gotten great advice so I'll just add welcome to the forum!

 

[Cayman]

Great... Thanks!!!

What is the best, or most used, for shocking? Bleach, Trichlor, Cal-Hypo??? Also, what is plain liquid chlorine that I can get in the jugs from the pool store considered?

Thanks again!!! You all sure make this pool thing much easier!!!!

 

[JasonLion]

Liquid chlorine is bleach, though usually at a higher concentration.

I recommend shocking with bleach/liquid chlorine. You don't want to shock with cal-hypo, that will add calcium and your calcium levels are already high enough. You could possibly shock with dichlor just this once, it will raise your CYA level but CYA up to 80 is alright with a SWG. However, CYA is difficult to lower and shocking with dichlor risks raising CYA too high. Trichlor is never good to shock with, it doesn't dissolve quickly enough.

 

[Cayman]

You guys rock!!! I appreciate you all being so helpful as this is all new to me. I am the type to go through something one time and then it sticks and I will remember it for the next time. :lol:

OK... So with my 15K pool with my current CYA being 60 and my current FC being 4, pool calculator shows my shock level to be 18 FC. In order to get there I need to add 261 oz of 10% Liquid Chlorine (10% being what my local shop carries). Ok... makes sense and sounds easy enough.

My SWG had a dial for Sanitization Output % on it and also has a slide switch for Sanitizer Output Boost. Should I change either of these after I add the liquid chlorine to help maintain it? If so, which one and where should I set it? Also, when the shock has done its thing, what should I do then to go back to normal? Just leave it alone and let the FC fall on its own?

Thanks again guys!!! This is the best!!!!

 

[duraleigh]

OK... So with my 15K pool with my current CYA being 60 and my current FC being 4, pool calculator shows my shock level to be 18 FC. In order to get there I need to add 261 oz of 10% Liquid Chlorine (10% being what my local shop carries). Ok... makes sense and sounds easy enough.

From what I could read into your post, it sounds like you may be making a very common assumption.....that bringing your FC to 18ppm will clear your pool of algae.....not so. You must keep the FC at 18 by replenishing it constantly until your pool is clear.

This may take several days (probably not) and you may have to test for FC and re-add to bring it back to 18-20ppm 10-15 times but remember that it is a process not a one-time event.

The process is complete when:
A. You hold FC loss to 1.0 or less overnite
B. Your CC's test .5 or less
C. Your water is sparkling

 

[JasonLion]

You might want to read the Pool School article on Shocking Your Pool.

 

[Cayman]

You might want to read the Pool School article on Shocking Your Pool.

I may be a newbie but I am not that much of a newbie. Yes, I did read that before posting. I was just not sure about what % to change my SWG to and how if I should move the slide switch to Boost instead of auto.

You guy are really helpful an patient. I appreciate that so much.

Anyway, I added my 10% Chlorine last night and brushed the entire pool. I also washed out my filter again even though I just did it this past weekend. I left the pump running and will continue to monitor it to keep the FC at 18. I accientally aded too much chlorine on the first round and it went up to 22 but I am sure that will be ok. LOL

Thanks again and I will keep you all posted.

 

[Cayman]

OK.... I came home today and the pool looks even greener. The pool is perfectly clear, not cloudy at all... just greenish in color. I tested the Chlorine, CYA and PH.

FC - 30
CC - 1
TC - 31
CYA - 60
PH - 7.8

I brushed the pool and cleaned the cartridge filter. I then added 18oz. of Muranic Acid to bring the PH down some.

I have been running the filter 24/7 and I have my Sanitizer Output Control % at 100% and I also have the Sanitizer Boost Switch on.

I called and spoke to my father who has been doing this for years and he said it may be mustard algae and that I may want to pick up some copper sulfate in case it does not clear up by tomorrow. He said mustard algae is immune to chlorine. Is this right? I don't think I like the idea of adding copper sulfate to my pool!!!

Any suggestions or ideas now? This is getting frustrating!!!



NOTE: To recap the changes that I made just before this happened....

Added 50 Lbs Salinity Salt w/ Stain Inhibitor
Added 8 Lbs. Suncoast Sanitizer/Conditioner
Added 152 Oz. Boarx
Added 30 Oz. Acid

Thought this may help some.

 

[JasonLion]

Your CC level strongly suggest an organic contaminate problem, presumably algae. However, mustard algae does not normally color the water. It sits on surfaces, typically on the shaded side of the pool.

Mustard algae can certainly be killed with chlorine, though it can take a while to get it all. High FC levels should make any mustard algae appear to vanish, even though it sometimes comes back when the FC level falls again. With CYA around 60, it can take a couple of days with FC around 35 and regular brushing of the pool and *all* surfaces (including ladders), to kill off mustard algae for good.

I would avoid any algaecide with copper in it. Copper can cause problems.

 

[Cayman]

Thanks for the information Jason!!!

I tested again this morning and the FC is up to 35 and the CC is down to .5. I assume the FC is climbing a little since I have my SWG on 100% with the Sanitization Boost on. It has climbed 5 ppm since last nights test. The CC has also dropped .5 since last night as well.

Looking at the trend, my CC was at 1.5 originally and then 1.0 last night and then 0.5 this morning so it appears to be doing the job. I guess I just need more POP.

I can not see the water this morning but will see what it looks like tonight when I get home and then test again.

 

[vtowntom]

A belated welcome to you Cayman. It's nice to see a fellow newbie in here. I'm at the same stage as you are, as far as testing water. With my pool being new, my readings are quite different from yours. I'm going to watch your postings closely.
Good luck!

 

[Cayman]

Thank you!! Hopefully with the help of other, I can get this resolved.

I have to say that I love my TF Test Kit and will love it even more when my Apollo Magnetic Stirrer gets here next week. I think that will help me get more conistant and accurate readings, plus save me a ton of time.

 

[vtowntom]

Magnetic stirrer? Please elaborate.