We just purchased our house fall before last (foreclosure), it had a pool, we fired it up last spring and it worked... However it was filled with leaves and stuff, we cleaned and replaced sand, and spent roughly two grand on chemicals, and never had a blue clear pool all last summer, and this summer is starting off the same. 800 into it, still green. We need help and I think our pool guy in town is just enjoying all the money we are giving him... I read some posts the other day about using bleach and started reading about slamming, the only test kit I have is the little dip it sticks, but I have ordered a tf 100, and my dip it stated everything was within normal limits, I tested for phosphates as per a another local store, 300-500. The other store called there help desk and said the same thing add like 20 gallons of bleach... I added 14 yesterday still green and cloudy.... I need help!
New from MN!
- Thread starter Meli
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!
I would stop going to pool stores and adding stuff until you get your test kit and we can see some accurate numbers.
But, you do have a homework assignment while waiting. You need to narrow down the volume of your pool to something we/you can work with when adding chemicals.
I would stop going to pool stores and adding stuff until you get your test kit and we can see some accurate numbers.
But, you do have a homework assignment while waiting. You need to narrow down the volume of your pool to something we/you can work with when adding chemicals.
Welcome to TFP!
You've taken the very important first step of ordering one of the recommended test kits, so
on that. I would wait for your TF100 to arrive before doing anything else at this point. You'll have it in a couple of days. In the meantime, remove as much debris as you can from the pool.
You've taken the very important first step of ordering one of the recommended test kits, so
on that. I would wait for your TF100 to arrive before doing anything else at this point. You'll have it in a couple of days. In the meantime, remove as much debris as you can from the pool. You can ignore phosphates. Adequate chlorine will prevent algae regardless of what the phosphate level is. We have some members with phosphate levels into the thousands, but have never had algae due to maintaining proper chlorine levels.
Welcome to TFP! 
I highly recommend reading through the introductory topics in Pool School and for sure knowing the SLAM procedure very well. It's important to understand that it's a process of maintaining chlorine until you pass the criteria. Especially here in MN it's important to get every day you can out of your pool and the TFP methods are the way to do that.
Best of luck to you and ask specific questions when they come up. Post your first test results when you get the kit and we'll be able to help you from there. Let's help you enjoy that summer up on the Iron Range!
I highly recommend reading through the introductory topics in Pool School and for sure knowing the SLAM procedure very well. It's important to understand that it's a process of maintaining chlorine until you pass the criteria. Especially here in MN it's important to get every day you can out of your pool and the TFP methods are the way to do that.
Best of luck to you and ask specific questions when they come up. Post your first test results when you get the kit and we'll be able to help you from there. Let's help you enjoy that summer up on the Iron Range!
This is the part of learning your pool. Once you get your test kit and start adding chemicals using Pool Math you will actually narrow down the volume. Pool Math will tell you to add X to get Y result. Pay attention and as you see differences you can adjust you additions to get the desired result.
Ok we got the test kit... My CYA is 50, my free chlorine is 27 and the total chlorine was 28.5.... That's all we measure since we added the 14 gallons of bleach on Tuesday. Now what?
Well, here are the numbers we normally deal with:
FC - 27
CC - 1.5
pH - FC too high to test.
TA - Unk
CH - Unk
CYA - 50
TC/Total Chlorine is something we generally don't deal with.
Well, you are well above shock level, which for 50 CYA is 20. How has the pool been looking, still green?
Your ultimate goal is to read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.The problem is unless you got a pH reading before you started adding bleach you have no idea where your pH is. To start a SLAM you should lower your pH to 7.2, because once FC is above 10 the test is invalid.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
- CC is 0.5 or lower;
- You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
- The water is clear.
If the water has been clearing I'm tempted to say just keep the FC continuously above 20 (that is the maintain part of the SLAM), and continue on. If it is still a swamp, let the FC drift below 10 so you can get a good reading on pH, adjust and then SLAM again.
CC =
Combined Chlorine
- The stuff that smells like chlorine and burns your eyes that you get rid of by SLAMing your pool.
I have to ask, how did you get your TC (Total Chlorine) number?
Sounds like you might want to review the ABCs of pool chemistry article in Pool School so we can speak the same language.
You're in good hands following the advice of the above posts so I just want to say welcome and show you the kind of "foreclosure swamp" clearing hat is possible if you follow the TFP methods 
Also -- take pics...you'll be glad you had!
And make sure you've annually removed all the crud you can (though clearly in my case I missed some )
Also -- take pics...you'll be glad you had!
And make sure you've annually removed all the crud you can (though clearly in my case I missed some
)
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,751
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Wow! Great pics Swampwoman! What a transformation. That's what it's all about right there.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,751
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Stay with the SLAM Meli. Remember the 3 requirements to passing SLAM are:
A. CC is 0.5 or lower;
B. You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
C. And the water is clear.
Good luck!
A. CC is 0.5 or lower;
B. You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
C. And the water is clear.
Good luck!
What make the combined chlorine go down? And just keep the free chlorine above 20? Until the 3 requirements are met?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,751
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Your CC will eventually go down simply by ensuring your FC stays at or slightly above the required SLAM level based on your CYA. The bleach will eventually do the trick. Having gone through this for a few days, now you can probably see what having a good test kit that reads an accurate CYA is so important. If someone was off on their CYA reading even by just 10ppm, it could lead them to believe their FC was high enough when in all actuality it needed to be higher. So Meli, as long as you are at or slightly above the SLAM level on the Chlorine/CYA chart linked below, you will be fine. Stay with it and let us know if anything changes. Maybe tonight or tomorrow try to post all 3 critical readings (FC, CC, and CYA) just to ensure all factors related to your SLAM are appropriate.
You r hard work will save your pool. This site just provides information for you to use should you choose to. OK, maybe a little encouragement every now & then