What to expect from Pool service

[dc_dick]

Hi,

I just bought a house with a pool and have been reading up as much as I can on pool maintenance. However, with remodeling other parts of the house and not having time to properly maintain the pool, I've been thinking about getting pool service in the meantime. I got the water tested and have been maintaining it as much as I can. However, I'm not 100% sure if all equipment is functioning correctly. (i.e. automatic sweeper (polaris 180), skimmer (missing gate), pump, filter, water leaks, air leaks). So basically, should I expect whoever I hire to help maintain my pool to also help debug these issues? Fix these issues?

Thx.
-Rich

 

[h2ctpdjl]

Hello Rich! If you have the time and petience, the experts here at this website can walk you through everything. If there is a problem with your pool, be it maintenance, chemicals, repairs, etc., this is the place to go! The people here are terrific.

 

[spishex]

Rich,

Only way to know what you're working with is to get a few estimates. Often the person that fixes your equipment is not the same person that cleans your pool weekly, so be sure to ask if the guy you're talking to is the one you'll be seeing regularly.

If you're buried in stuff, I would recommend getting someone to come out and spend 2 or 3 hours getting your equipment in good shape and showing you the ins and outs, and then use this forum to take care of the pool on your own. Once we get past the leaves there is nothing quite as easy as keeping a pool clean through the winter. It'll give you a chance to get used to it and by summer you should be ready to go.

Paying someone to come out weekly can get expensive if you don't live in Florida or California. Rates here seem to range from $35-65/wk + expensive chemicals depending on what you want done and how often, and even then there's no promise that you won't end up with a green pool. No weekly service can compare to a homeowner who'll take 5-10 minutes a day to look at the pool.

Tim

 

[dc_dick]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely do find this site very useful. I got a buddy of mine to come out last night to walk me through some of the basics. I think one of the main issues has been that the water level keeps dropping below the skimmer box level, thus water isn't getting into the skimmer basket area consistently. I've read that the water level should be kept about 1/3 of the skimmer box, is that correct? When I did do that, the "suction" didn't seem to do anything and the leaves just ended up floating because the skimmer opening doesn't have a door. Is it suppose to?

-Rich (aka Pool Newbie)

 

[cubbybeave08]

Rich,
I always kept my water level to 2/3 of the skimmer box. This is what my pool builder told me. You also need to get a weir the little trap door thingy...about $5-10 dollars at your pool store...if you don't have that the skimmer does absolutely nothing...Make sure it fits right. it should freely move up and down...it keeps the water flowing and suction going like a constant flushing of the toilet. I agree with what others had said...If you are unfamiliar it might not be a bad idea to have an installer come out and do a quick check on your pool to see what repairs need to be made, especially if you are think there are air leaks in the system, and you are losing water...Other than that...You don't need someone to clean your pool and maintain it...You can do that your self in just minutes a day...i am a first year pool owner and this was my first summer. I never spent more than an hour on any day working on my pool. If you follow the methods described by all of us pool geeks...You will be fine...The BBB method is all you need to know...I spent less than $100 this summer from May to September on pool chemicals. You don't need it...Chlorine...is just bleach...That is all I ever used in my pool...and that is all most people ever use. Sometimes you have to buy some things that aren't just bought at the grocery store...but for the most part bleach, baking soda and borax...are all that you need...My pool stayed almost perfectly balanced all summer long at the proper levels...Never had algae, never got scummy water, never had burning eyes or skin...My wife and kids did nothing but compliment me on a great pool...I took it all as my own doing...but truth be told it is all from the people here...They are the real experts...stay away from the teenager who works at the pool store...his or her job is to get you to spend money you don't need to spend...spend the money you save on cool pool toys!!!

 

[dc_dick]

Hi All,

Just wanted to give you guys a quick update. I finally got my cleaner (polaris 180) to work. It turns out all I needed was more water in the skimmer box and to have the booster pump on. That puppy was running all day and picked up those leaves at the bottom of the pool. When I got my water tested earlier this week, my phosphates level was at 2500. I bought the PhosFree and currently have the pump going to circulate it. I will retest afterwards. I read some articles (after purchase) and I guess the verdict is out on PhosFree, but since I bought it already, I decided to use it. I do plan on trying the BBB method soon. Anything that simplifies life and is a cheaper alternative works for me. As for getting a pool guy, I've ditched that idea. With the pressure cleaner running smoothly now, I should be able to handle it. Just need to figure out how to work the vacuum.

Here are my previous test results as fyi.
FC: 2
pH: 7.4
TA: 60
CH: 260
CYA: 50
TDS: 900
Phosphates: 2500

Based on the FC/CYA chart, looks like my FC is on the low side. I've added another puck (bought prior to reading about BBB). I have yet to measure my pool, but plan on doing that and gathering the rest of the info for my signature. Bear with me.

This site rocks!

-Rich

 

[JasonLion]

Your TA level is low, particularly if you are using pucks. You want TA at 100 to 120 while using pucks, 70 to 90 when using bleach.

Nearly everyone here is against using PhosFree, except in rare and unusual situations. It doesn't usually hurt, though it can cause cloudiness, but it is nearly always a waste of money.

 

[spishex]

Your TA level is low, particularly if you are using pucks. You want TA at 100 to 120 while using pucks, 70 to 90 when using bleach.

Nearly everyone here is against using PhosFree, except in rare and unusual situations. It doesn't usually hurt, though it can cause cloudiness, but it is nearly always a waste of money.

That's funny because I always felt like the one thing Phosphate removers do for pools is clear them up a bit since most of them contain a flocculating agent. Not sure if that is the case with phosfree or not.

Nice work Rich!

 

[dc_dick]

Hi,

Yeah, my pool was a bit cloudier after adding the PhosFree. After reading more, I also realized it was a waste of money, but I figured since I bought it already, I might as well use it.

-Rich

 

[Guest]

Your TA level is low, particularly if you are using pucks. You want TA at 100 to 120 while using pucks, 70 to 90 when using bleach.

Nearly everyone here is against using PhosFree, except in rare and unusual situations. It doesn't usually hurt, though it can cause cloudiness, but it is nearly always a waste of money.

That's funny because I always felt like the one thing Phosphate removers do for pools is clear them up a bit since most of them contain a flocculating agent. Not sure if that is the case with phosfree or not.

Nice work Rich!

Phosphate removers work by causing lanthanum phosphate to precipitate out of the water. They will cause the water to cloud in much the same way a precipitating calcium carbonate out of the water will. The older formula phosphate removers based on lanthanum carbonate do contain a floc because they are the worst offenders but also the most effective (but can only be used with a sand filter or a DE filter that will allow vacuum to waste). The more common lanthanum chloride based ones first form lanthanum carbonate which, in theory, is caught by your filter where it then converts to lanthanum phosphate (so keep a close eye on your filter pressure if you use this time). This will make the water cloudy until all the lanthanum carbonate is caught by the filter, perhaps up to a week.

The main purpose of phosphate removers is to make money for pool stores! They are only of value in a very small number of rare cases.