intex ultra frame t-joints slipping out of top rail

You can get replacement buttons on the Intex website, if that one is weak. Or just get a big enough metal screw to screw through the hole. That should hold it. I'd get a galvanized one so it doesn't rust.
 
You can also wrap duct tape around the joint, which has the added benefit of keeping water from seeping into the rails and rusting them out from the inside. But it doesn't look very classy and you'll have to replace it every year, as it deteriorates outside in the sun.

I experimented with this to prevent the rust that eventually claimed my last Intex pool.
 
Jeff, you aren't alone. Yes ,mine is doing the same thing. I have the Intex 18ft 52" round.I have 2 buttons that are pressed up not through the holes and I have another one of the white buttons on the outside of the support bar. Looks like only an inch from the T bar is in the support bar instead of the 2-3 inches. The pool is about an inch of level. These are happening on the "low side". I'm going to have to drain pool enough to fix. Not sure how much draining this will take. I'm thinking about adding another paver stone under the low legs instead of sinking down all the others. Bad idea? Any idea how to keep from happening again like maybe using zip ties around the frame? What about using screws in the holes instead of the white pins? Would that make the frame too rigid though? Good Luck!
 
My pool is not even 2 weeks old.....my in laws pool is doing the same thing but completely separating....both are 2 weeks old maximum.....I thought about galvanized carriage bolts all the way through the top rail...I don't know though....mine isn't moving any further ....YET!
 
My pool was level when we first put it up beginning of April. All legs on pavers. All legs straight up. A few hard rains and the pool settled about a week later an inch lower on the one side (5 poles). We are in Fl. so no avoiding the heavy rains. Since then no more moving,but I've been noticing that those few buttons have went in over a few weeks...slowly.Only used the pool a few times. I was thinking about putting screws in the top also to keep secure. Seems like it should use something more sturdy to keep in place anyway. Not sure if my husband will approve. He didn't want pool in the first place,lol. I'm guessing with use, yours will do the same. The frame rocks when using the pool,so if not secure ,the bars start to slowly slip. The shame of it is that my pool is sparkling clear! I'm going to start draining next week, some each day.
 

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I put sheet metal screws in the bottom side of mine because of my in laws pool doing the same thing.....sheared the screw! Thinking about draining....doing a through wall skimmer and carriage bolts all the way through the t-joint and top rail where the button comes through.
 
What it boils down to I guess, is that we get what we pay for........$500-$800 pool that lasts 2-5 years, or a $3000+ pool that lasts 15-25 years (hopefully). Most of the time things boil down to affordability. I know for the first 5 years we have decided to do the Intex route and if we enjoy having a pool and the maintenance that goes with it, then we will purchase a larger permanent APG.

Sad to see the frames rusting the way they are though, one would think last a bit longer.


I'm draining the intex and getting an AGP from a local pool shop......27" round......I've had it with intex
 
I have a 24x48 AGP but I couldn't get all the bottom rail when I moved......and its hard to find since I don't know the manufacturer.....my aunt gave me the pool years ago.....loved it! So me and my wife thought the intex was the way to go because I couldn't find bottom rail for old pool....WRONG! LOL! oh well.....
 
I lost a liner last year at the seam intex replaced it I really think it became an issue when I tried to re-level the pool after draining it down to about 6" of water using a floor jack and doubling up on pavers side that was low refilling with water from the well over 3 days getting the call from my wife saying the pools leaking getting home looking at the leak touching with my finger and literally getting drowned. It just opened up. They sent another but when I put it back together I used stainless steel 3/8 nuts an bolts instead of those white pins(I had broken many taking it apart and found they wanted like $8 for just 4 pins. If you must re-level drain it don't stress it, I to live in fl and this go round I built a retaining wall used paver sand got bigger patio blocks and used a laser and so far so good. Will not buy another Intex though that I am sure
 
Yeah, you can't just get the legs and the top rail level, the floor of the pool has to be level too.
So all jacking up a low spot with pavers is going to do is stress the liner on that portion of the pool.
It'll rip.... unless you drain and level out the liner too.

That being said.... I've had my ultra for a couple years now, this will be it's 3rd summer and have not experienced the joints popping.
But mine is only a 14'..... perhaps it is something that happens with the bigger models, more weight/stress?
 
Update after a year. I left my pool up with the white joint button pushed in. I used a heavy zip tie to secure polls together to stop it slipping. It slowed it down some, but still continued to slip past the hole. After the incredible rainy summer we had last year we only really got to use it a hand full of times after June. The pool was level when initially filled, but couldn't hang with the Florida rainy season. It settled on the low side by about 1.5-2 inches on that side with the slipped joint. It never sank any lower all year. Draining pool now to fix the higher side and pop back in white buttons. I'll give another update once it's "fixed" Fingers crossed!
 
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