I'm noticing the percentage setting I have my salt system set at is not producing chlorine in the amounts I want. The setting I used in previous years was great. I have increased the output and can't seem to get beyond 2 ppm. I added liquid last weekend because of cloudy water and don't know if the 2ppm could still be as a result of that. There are no lights flashing on the unit. I'm wondering if the cell might be finished. Does the unit know when it's not producing chlorine, or at a very low amount?
Does a Salt Cell know when it needs replacement?
- Thread starter jonmar
- Start date
Are you able to clean the cell? If you already cleaned it then it may be reaching the end of its life.
I cleaned it at opening about three weeks ago. It wasn't particularly dirty then but I did anyway.
Low FC levels are usually chemistry problems, but can also be the cell nearing the end of it's lifetime.
What brand/model of SWG do you have? It would be good if you put information like that in your signature.
What brand/model of SWG do you have? It would be good if you put information like that in your signature.
I've turned on super chlorinate to see if produces anything. How long should it take to notice a difference if there is going to be one?
Saturn94
Bronze Supporter
- Mar 11, 2015
- 1,746
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- 20000
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You mentioned cloudy water.....could be you have something eating up you CL. An OCLT should tell you if something is eating up CL or if your cell isn't producing much CL.
I think the cloudy water was as a result of low chlorine. I shocked it with liquid and it was clear the next day. It's been clear since and my other numbers have remained good. What is an OCLT? I'm guessing an overnight CL test?
If I need a cell, does anyone have any experience with the generic cells? I like the clear tubing idea as it's supposed to let you look for build up without removal.
If I need a cell, does anyone have any experience with the generic cells? I like the clear tubing idea as it's supposed to let you look for build up without removal.
Saturn94
Bronze Supporter
- Mar 11, 2015
- 1,746
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
OCLT = Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
Low chlorine usually results in stuff starting to grow in the water. A clear pool doesn't mean nothing's growing. The OCLT will tell you if something you can't see is eating up your CL.
If you lose more than 1ppm overnight, then you need to do a SLAM
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
I do like the idea of the clear cell on the generics, but I've read mixed reviews about them, so I stick with the OEM version.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
Low chlorine usually results in stuff starting to grow in the water. A clear pool doesn't mean nothing's growing. The OCLT will tell you if something you can't see is eating up your CL.
If you lose more than 1ppm overnight, then you need to do a SLAM
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
I do like the idea of the clear cell on the generics, but I've read mixed reviews about them, so I stick with the OEM version.
the OCLT is the thing to do.
If you loose > 1ppm FC, then you need to slam to pool.
Just because the water is clear, does not in the least mean the pool is free of algae. If the water was cloudy yesterday and you didnt do a proper SLAM, I almost guarantee the problem is algae eating up the FC.
Once you have algae, the SWG will rarely be able to stave it off.
You never see algae before its way too late and seemingly all of a sudden the water goes green.
If you loose > 1ppm FC, then you need to slam to pool.
Just because the water is clear, does not in the least mean the pool is free of algae. If the water was cloudy yesterday and you didnt do a proper SLAM, I almost guarantee the problem is algae eating up the FC.
Once you have algae, the SWG will rarely be able to stave it off.
You never see algae before its way too late and seemingly all of a sudden the water goes green.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,831
- Pool Size
- 20000
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FC of 3.0 ppm is a little low for CYA of 80 ppm. You should be closer to 6 ppm. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
If you have a Leslie's nearby, I believe they do test the salt cells. However, I don't know have any experience with their testing or the methods they use. I think I would follow the advice to do the OCLT first and see what your results are.
I've switched off the salt system and CL is now 5.5. So I know the cell can produce some CL. I'll check it in the morning and see what's what.
The best test for an AquaRite cell is to check the salt level reported by the box against a reliable test kit for salt. I would recommend the Taylor k-1766 kit. If the salt is within 400 ppm, then the cell is good. If the box is between 400 and 800 ppm low, the cell is going bad. Over 800 ppm low, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
Can you report all of the diagnostic readings?
Can you report all of the diagnostic readings?
Do you mean what is lit up on the panel or what is going on with each press of the button?
What if the salt reading on the box is too high?
Each press of the button. I don't think that I have ever seen one read salt as too high. If it's within 400 ppm, it's good. If it's more than 400 ppm off, then there's likely to be a problem.
Just did a test. FC is 3.0 so I lost 2.5 overnight. Going to the pool store for some liquid. Any idea how much I need for about 40 000 gallons and CYA at 80?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,831
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)