Which tests before SLAM?

sxch12

0
May 5, 2015
65
Novi MI
I'm a new pool owner (sand filter, vinyl liner in-ground pool) and have never done any of this. I just got the TF-100 XL option test kit. The pool is black and can't see the bottom. There were leaves, worm, green slime, etc. I think I raked most but I can't see the bottom.
1) Before turning on my system what tests do I do?
2) After test which one of the tests do I regulate or do I just SLAM with bleach and make it clear so I can see the bottom?
3) It terms of SLAMming how many times do you do it or do you just keep the levels high until the water is clean?
Thank you.
 
I'm a new pool owner (sand filter, vinyl liner in-ground pool) and have never done any of this. I just got the TF-100 XL option test kit. The pool is black and can't see the bottom. There were leaves, worm, green slime, etc. I think I raked most but I can't see the bottom.
1) Before turning on my system what tests do I do?
You'll need the pump on at least half an hour to mix the water well before you start testing.
2) After test which one of the tests do I regulate or do I just SLAM with bleach and make it clear so I can see the bottom?
You need to run all of them. Scratch that - you can be reasonably sure you have no chlorine, so save the reagent. But run everything else. If it turns out you have astronomical CH or CYA, you'll need to replace some water first. And you won't be able to test pH once you start, so you need to fix that first, and you'll need to know TA to fix pH.
3) It terms of SLAMming how many times do you do it or do you just keep the levels high until the water is clean?
Thank you.
There's no way to know. Initially, if you can check and add bleach every hour, you'll make rapid progress. You'll see as time goes on that you need to add less and less each time, and when you notice that, you can start to stretch out the intervals a little, in case you have a life beyond the pool. But the more often you maintain the FC level, the faster it will go. I think the record to turn a green pool clear is three days, but that guy got up every two hours all night long all weekend to do it. Most people require a week or ten days. Worst case was about a month. A lot depends on how diligent you are about maintaining the FC and brushing and vacuuming.

Post some pictures so we can follow the progress.
 
Congrats on your test kit! Once you have a full vet of numbers please post them here. That way we can help guide you. SLAM is a process in which you must pass 3 criteria in order to stop. It will not happen overnight.

Not necisarrily in this order

1. Pass OLCT
2. A CC of .5 or less
3. Crystal clear water

Glad you got the gunk out for the most part.
Please read through the SLAM process in pool school.
Prior to SLAM you need to test everything. During the SLAM you will only be testing FC and CC
 
If I add bleach every hour or 2 hours how much do I put in each time? Do I test after each time or not necessary.
If I have to replace the water can I use well or city water? Or is there a service I have to call to get the water? And do I send the water through the waste line in the sand filter? So when do I test ph after mixing the water and make sure ph is fine before I SLAM?
 
If I add bleach every hour or 2 hours how much do I put in each time? Do I test after each time or not necessary.
If I have to replace the water can I use well or city water? Or is there a service I have to call to get the water? And do I send the water through the waste line in the sand filter? So when do I test ph after mixing the water and make sure ph is fine before I SLAM?
You test the FC and plug your numbers into poolmath and add enough to take you to shock level for your CYA.

If you have a lot of iron in your well water, city water would be better. If it's safe to drink, it's safe to put in the pool. Metals just create their own set of problems.

If you need to drain using the pump, shut off the skimmer if possible and set the filter to waste. That will draw from the main drain in the bottom and bypass the filter and pump it all out the waste line. If you can't isolate the main drain, a submersible pump would be best.

If you've had to replace water, you need to let it mix at least half an hour before you test and adjust pH. If you're at the ends of the pH scale, you might need to adjust a second or third time.

Let's just wait until you get some test results and approach the steps in sequence.
 
Here are my numbers. So can I put in bleach, borax (or washing soda or soda ash), baking soda, and CYA all at the same time? If not which do I do first, second, third, and fourth? I'd like to kill the algae asap so can I start SLAM yet?

CL: .5
PH 6.8
CYA: none
CH: 100 ppm
TA: 30
 
Here are my numbers. So can I put in bleach, borax (or washing soda or soda ash), baking soda, and CYA all at the same time? If not which do I do first, second, third, and fourth? I'd like to kill the algae asap so can I start SLAM yet?

CL: .5
PH 6.8
CYA: none
CH: 100 ppm
TA: 30
First, take a picture and post it for our edification. Do a good job and you might end up in my Inspirational Threads list.

Then, if you have washing soda/soda ash/pH up laying around, use that to raise pH. If not, use Borax to raise pH and deal with the low TA afterwards. You have a vinyl pool, so etching the plaster is not a concern.

Third, weigh out enough CYA to get to 30. Put int in a sock and set it in the skimmer or hang it in front of a return.

Fourth, thirty minutes after adjusting pH, recheck it. You might need a second dose of whatever to get it up to 7.2, since you're off the bottom of the scale. Recheck that again in 30 minutes.

When the pH is up, jugs away. Target 12 FC since your CYA will be 30 soon enough. If the pool is pig filthy and scary black, the small excess won't last very long. And then keep checking and adjusting FC up to 12 every hour or two. Once it stops losing the majority of the FC in that time, you can stretch the interval out a little. But the more consistent you are, the faster it will clear.

- - - Updated - - -

So I put in all my numbers in Pool Math and it says use 10 for SLAM. I choose bleach 121oz. does that mean use 10 bottles?
No. The target is parts per million. Use 12 as your target, since you'll have added some CYA as noted in my earlier reply. The dose is given in ounces, but conveniently poolmath tells you how many jugs that is in case you want to just eyeball it. I see it says 3.9 jugs. Might as well dump 4 the first time, because by the time you're done dribbling the first 3.9 jugs in and rinsing the empties to get every drop, that extra will be used up.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Where do I get CYA? How do I hang it in front of return? I would think it's better there than Skimmer?
Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, the pool store... It's usually less work to just set the sock in the skimmer. The pump's on the whole time, so there's just as much water flow across it as there is in front of a return. But it's up to you. There are some pictures in this thread that show different approaches.

Which chemical does what, and how to add it is in Recommended Pool Chemicals You really should read it carefully.
 
Can I get liquid CYA to make it go faster? Any downside?
Expensive. And last year we had a bunch of reports of it not being full strength or something. The sock will be dissolved in a couple days. That should be plenty fast. The algae will get to the bleach faster than the sun. If you added it the day you started this thread, it would all be dissolved by now!
 
Can I put in all of it at one time or one at a time?
With the exception of the CYA, you wait thirty minutes between chemical additions. And be sure to read Recommended Pool Chemicals so you add things properly. I laid out the sequence earlier in this thread.
First, take a picture and post it for our edification. Do a good job and you might end up in my Inspirational Threads list.

Then, if you have washing soda/soda ash/pH up laying around, use that to raise pH. If not, use Borax to raise pH and deal with the low TA afterwards. You have a vinyl pool, so etching the plaster is not a concern.

Third, weigh out enough CYA to get to 30. Put int in a sock and set it in the skimmer or hang it in front of a return.

Fourth, thirty minutes after adjusting pH, recheck it. You might need a second dose of whatever to get it up to 7.2, since you're off the bottom of the scale. Recheck that again in 30 minutes.

When the pH is up, jugs away. Target 12 FC since your CYA will be 30 soon enough.
 
Here are new numbers:
PH- between 7.5-7.8
TA- 110
FC - 4.5
CC - 1
CYA is still low. I will add more. I didn't have enough yesterday.
So how many more jugs do I need? I assume now is 4.5 and change target to 12 is that correct? That would make 3.6 jugs. Bleach says 121 oz. concentrated 8.25% but says makes 182oz. I assume I go with 121oz.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.