Jack's Magic-Purple stuff

Thanks for the welcome.
My current readings are: FC-6 TC-6 PH-7.8 TA-120 CH-300 CA-70

About two month's ago I was told by Leslie's to drain my pool half way down and then refill it because my CH. I was getting alot of scale flakes. So I drained and refilled (CH now 240) and have been watching my CH slowly rise to where it is now.

I have trying to keep my PH down around 7.2 but this week it jumped up.

Some information on my setup: Intelliflo pump, Sta-Rite cartridge filter, Pentair IC-40 SWG, Infloor cleaning system and 16,500 gal roman end pool with Pebble Fina finish. Pool is about 1 yr old.
 
be careful using Jack's purple stuff. There was another post here that the Purple stuff has a high level of phosphate as part of the active incredient. High phosphates can cause potential algae issues if you do not keep your FC at it's proper level.

Leslie keeps trying to sell me Phosfree because my phosphates are high-of course I refuse. But, I wondered how they got high in the first place. I did use Purple Stuff my first year with the pool, and have since suspended use

My CH levels are also in the 300 range and I have not had any "flake" issues with my SWG. I do keep my pH in a small band of 7.6 to 7.8 and TA 60 to 80. When I pulled my SWG cell for the winter this past week, I had some minor calcium on the cell grids, but it was all soft and came off easily with some hose water. So, my chemistry control appears to be effective.
 
Phosphonate based metal sequesterants are the most effective type but they do break down into orthophosphates over time. However, high orthophosphate are NOT the limiting factor in algae blooms in the VAST majority of cases and can be prevented by keeping your FC at the proper level for your CYA. Phosphate removers are one of the biggest scams going on right now that make the pool stores a LOT of money. I have not sold a bottle of phosphate remover in about 3 years now! My own pool has orthophosphate readings in excess of 3000 ppm and I have never had an algae outbreak. If you are concerned about it an easy solution is to add borates to your pool to 50 ppm!
 
waterbear said:
Phosphonate based metal sequesterants are the most effective type but they do break down into orthophosphates over time. However, high orthophosphate are NOT the limiting factor in algae blooms in the VAST majority of cases and can be prevented by keeping your FC at the proper level for your CYA. Phosphate removers are one of the biggest scams going on right now that make the pool stores a LOT of money. I have not sold a bottle of phosphate remover in about 3 years now! My own pool has orthophosphate readings in excess of 3000 ppm and I have never had an algae outbreak. If you are concerned about it an easy solution is to add borates to your pool to 50 ppm!

I sat through a recent Bioguard school (not a dealer, but got invited) and I have to give them credit for not buying into this. They could clearly make a lot of money if they offered a phosphate remover, and their dealers were all but begging them to, but they put forth a lot of evidence as to why they should not and how people need to focus on basic chemistry.
 
SCCS - Your levels are tending a bit towards scaling, but not dramatically so. If your SWG has an adjustment to allow you to reduce the reverse time you should try that. A longer term solution would be to bring your TA level down to the 80 to 90 range and keep the PH under 7.8, preferably lower.
 
spishex said:
I sat through a recent Bioguard school (not a dealer, but got invited) and I have to give them credit for not buying into this. They could clearly make a lot of money if they offered a phosphate remover, and their dealers were all but begging them to, but they put forth a lot of evidence as to why they should not and how people need to focus on basic chemistry.
Then again, Bioguard (and some of the other Chemtura owned companies) do offer borate products like Optimizer and the Guardex branded Maximizer so if people use these they really have an algaestat in their water.
Borates will enhance the pH stability of the water and help prevent the pH from spiking above 7.8, which is where scaling is most likely to occur, btw. For this to be most effective the TA does need to be where JasonLion suggested.
 
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