Trouble with accurate CH reading

[Avenger1221]

I built my pool myself last August (2014) ... before I was able to get a cover and close it down, the weather turned cold and piled about 5' of leaves in the pool. I cleaned the leaves from the pool in May (the water was absolutely nasty and green ... couldn't see more than 2" below the surface!). Prior to finding the TFP website I was using a local pool store to help me clear up my pool - that was a mistake. They sold me a pint of some "green algaecide" ... which did nothing, 30 #'s of 'Alkanity UP', and 15 #'s of chlorine. I found this site, went through 'The Pool Schhol", purchased the Taylor K-2006 test kit. Using thew information on this site I'm beginning to turn my pool chemistry around - still cannot see the bottom of the deep end, and the pool is cloudy. I can't get an accurate reading on my CH. I called the Taylor company and their rep told me that I probably have some metals in my pool from the algaecide. He told me to purchase some sequestration agent - which I did - but the agent apparently did not clear up the problem with the metals. My qestion is: how can I clear up my pool and what can I do to get an accurate CH reading? Sorry for the long post ...

FC 6.0
CC 0.5
pH 7.8
TA 120
CYA 42
CH - turns 'purple' at 5 drops (50 ppm)

 

[Texas Splash]

Based on your numbers, I suspect the priority will be on increasing that chlorine level to the appropriate SLAM level. In addition, continuing to remove any debris and residue in the pool will be required to help expedite the effects of SLAM. Some of the TFP experts should be able to validate your concerns for the CH and purple drops.

 

[borjis]

If it's turning purple it could possibly be metals in the water...from the algecide.

for vinyl you don't really need calcium unless you are having foaming issues.

 

[Richard320]

Go test your tap water. If it's really soft, your reading may be accurate. And don;t forget that snow and rain have no CH in them either.

If your pH was really high over the winter, any Calcium in the water could be clinging to the walls as scale. Lowering the pH may bring some of it back into solution.

Your immediate concern should be to lower the pH to 7.2 and hit it hard with bleach. Shock level for your pool is 16 or 17. You need to keep it up there until the green turns to blue and any cloudiness is filtered out. I certainly hope you didn't have big plans for Memorial Day involving the pool.

 

[Avenger1221]

Thanks for all the responses!!! I've given up on having a sparkling, inviting pool by labor day. One more question though, how do I SLAM the pool with bleach? I know that I'm supposed to keep the FC level elivated (around 20) until the FC reading drops less than 0.1 overnight and the pool sparkles. When should I add the bleach?; if I add it during the day the UV will eat it up, but if I ad it too late in the afternoon I won't get an accurate reading by nightfall ... what do you suggest is the best way to SLAM a pool?

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the info, Richard. I was born and raised in Upland ... graduated from Cal State Fullerton then UC Irvine. What's the best way to slam the pool? i.e.: when do I add the chlorine?

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum.

Have you read the SLAM article in Pool School. There's no shortcutting it. You must keep your FC elevated until your water is crystal clear.

What does your water look like now? tell us that or better yet, post a pic

 

[Richard320]

Thanks for all the responses!!! I've given up on having a sparkling, inviting pool by labor day. One more question though, how do I SLAM the pool with bleach? I know that I'm supposed to keep the FC level elivated (around 20) until the FC reading drops less than 0.1 overnight and the pool sparkles. When should I add the bleach?; if I add it during the day the UV will eat it up, but if I ad it too late in the afternoon I won't get an accurate reading by nightfall ... what do you suggest is the best way to SLAM a pool?

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the info, Richard. I was born and raised in Upland ... graduated from Cal State Fullerton then UC Irvine. What's the best way to slam the pool? i.e.: when do I add the chlorine?

Complete Directions

Don't gloss over the prerequisites, either.

 

[Avenger1221]

Being a newbie, just want to make sure I get this right and not screw up the pool equipment or liner! Apparently you can begin the SLAM at any time of day ... is that right? Check FC levels two or three times a day? Will all that chlorine fade my liner ... will it mess with the equipment? I went to Lowe's and purchased 20 gal. of Kem-Tek (Chlorox) 10% bleach - we'll see if that is enough. It is supposed to rain here for the next four days ... should I wait 'til after it rains before I begin my SLAM?

 

[Defgufman]

I wouldn't wait. The quicker you start the faster you will be swimming. Pour the bleach in slowly at the return in the deep end. As long as you follow the FC to CYA chart your liner should be fine. Use pool math every time you get a new reading and ask more questions if something seems off. Good luck.

 

[Richard320]

Being a newbie, just want to make sure I get this right and not screw up the pool equipment or liner! Apparently you can begin the SLAM at any time of day ... is that right? Check FC levels two or three times a day? Will all that chlorine fade my liner ... will it mess with the equipment? I went to Lowe's and purchased 20 gal. of Kem-Tek (Chlorox) 10% bleach - we'll see if that is enough. It is supposed to rain here for the next four days ... should I wait 'til after it rains before I begin my SLAM?

If we're talking a couple inches rain, that's perfect. It'll replenish what you backwash out. And the gloomy skies will slow down the chlorine loss to the sun. Follow the FC/CYA chart and don't just dump the jugs as fast as possible in the same spot all the time and you won't bleach your liner. The key is to dribble it into the return flow so it gets diluted and dispersed. You can speed the mixing along and protect the liner by brushing immediately after adding bleach.