Plumbing help for new VS pump

EvilTwin

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 23, 2014
46
Phila. PA
While I have done basic PVC plumbing in the past, I need a little help with some pool plumbing. I have purchased a new Pentair Intelliflo VS pump and will be replacing an old Pentair Challenger Single-Speed. My concern is about how to go about plumbing the inlet to the new pump, since there is currently not much to work with. Here's a pic:

IMG_0177-small.jpg

So I have two issues:

1. The inlet on the new pump is two inches lower than the pipe. Not really a big deal as i figure I can get some good concrete pad/block to raise up the height of the pump. Anything wrong with this?

2. The new pump requires a run-in length of at least 10 inches. In the photo you can see that the union is butted right up against the valve, so not sure how I would undo this without destroying the valve, etc. I haven't tried to disassemble any of this yet, but after unhooking the union and removing the pump, I estimate I will be left with half a union stuck in the valve with no place to cut.

Suggestions?
 
If you leave the half the union that's connected to the valve in place, do you have enough room to move the new pump back from the union your 10"? Then you could just do a 8-10" PVC pipe with half a new union connected to the old half you leave in place? Not all unions are manufactured with the same threading, etc, so you'd have to find a half that matches with the one you leave in place.

EDIT: On raising the pump up: If you raise it up, try to bolt the pump to whatever you use to elevate it so it stays in place with the riser.
 
If there isn't room behind, could you rotate the pump 90° and install your lead-in that way?

And I echo Joel's suggestion. Leave that half of the union there. take the piece closest to your pump with you to all the plumbing and hardware and even pool stores in town until you find another just like it.

As far as elevating the pump... I'd attach the paver or whatever to the existing slab with mortar or caulk or something. You don't want it getting kicked out accidentally somehow and snapping all the pipes.
 
Well, here is what the pad currently looks like:

IMG_0246_sm.jpg

I am not opposed to re-organizing equipment on the pad. I am even looking into a new multi-port valve for the filter/backwash. I wanted a better one, not the push-pull that is there now. Some of those have side exits which may help with layout. It is my intention to add automation and change over to salt water chlorine generation in the next year or two. Just not there yet. The pump was in this year's budget. So the long return from the heater to the return valves is for the SWG.

Edit, actually, the return is pretty short and SWG is supposed to go after the heater, yes? So that may need redoing. Pool guy did that wrong during the heater install, I think.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.