Just got Taylor-2006 Test Kit. Want to verify what I should add.

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fiberoptik

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May 14, 2015
18
Hampstead, NC
First off, my pool is still filling. It is around 8200 gallons according to the volume calculator.
I added some bleach yesterday while filling just to keep the water chlorinated as well as to help get the rust to precipitate out of the water so I will be able to filter it. I have a well so my water is VERY high in iron.
Here are my numbers: Keep in mind, the only thing I have added at all to the water is bleach so far.
CYA 0
FC 4
CC .5
TA 240
CH 60
PH 7.2

I do have a water softener which is likely why my hardness is so low. I do have a vinyl liner so does the hardness matter? Should I go ahead and increase it to the recommended level of 260?

Also my TA is VERY high. Reading the website it recommends in order to decrease the TA I need to use acid to lower my PH to 7.0 and then aireate the water until TA drops.
So is this what I should do? Just keep aireating the water until my TA gets to around 100 and then bump the PH back up to 7.5?

Also the water is not full enough yet for me to be able to run my sand filter. It is not to the intake yet. In the meantime I am running 2 homemade filters to remove rust. Bleach jugs filled with polyfill and pumping water through them with fountain pumps. It is doing a good job so far.
I am going to attach a couple pics so you can see my water right now. The second pic is of the rinse water from my homemade filters after about 2 hours of running. I will keep posting updated pics.
Thank you for any assistance.
 
You've got it figured out! Love the rust strainer.

You don't need CH in a vinyl pool. Some people find it foams a lot without the CH. In that case, target 200 and leave it at that.

Use your fountain pumps to aerate when it's time to lower pH. Anything that churns the surface will do it. Just lower pH to 7.2 and then aerate. When pH gets up to 7.8, add acid again. Don't go by the TA, go by the pH. Acid lowers pH and TA, aeration raises pH and the TA stays down. Just keep working it down and keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.8 so people can swim while you're doing it.
 
Welcome to the forum. :wave: Well, (no pun intended), that rust precipitator is just plain cool. This forum is VERY interested in the outcome.

Do not be disappointed if your pool water still contains some iron and precipitates it out when you chlorinate. You may have to use a sequestrant but surely less than you normally would. Here's hoping for crystal clear water.:goodjob::goodjob:

Hardness does not matter for your pool.

Is your test kit pretty new?
 
Thanks Richard. Just went out and cleaned the filters out again and they looked the same as the pic I posted. Ill be doing this every couple hours for the next few days. Once I get the sand filter up and running it should help out quite a bit, but I figure I might as well get a head start on the rust while I wait for my water to get full enough.

PH is currently at 7.2 so I will just start aereating as soon as I can. I'll keep an eye on the PH and lower it back down to the low 7's if it gets up to around 7.8
I'll probably just test the TA after a few days of aereating and keeping my PH in check until TA is where it needs to be.
Also I'll get my CYA in there (waiting for Amazon to ship it to me) and Ill also keep my FC in Check.

Thank you again. I'm loving this site so far. Everyone is very helpful.
 
duraleigh said:
You may not need to. How old is your test kit?
Click to expand...

I literally just got it yesterday.
I got my water level high enough yesterday to run my filter, however the outlet was still above the water level so I just left it like that all night. Water was pretty much spraying halfway across the pool. I was getting really good aereation all night long. I will go out and test everything here shortly and see if that made any difference.
 
tim5055 said:
You are doing a great job!!

A few photos of your home made filter and descriptions on how you built it may help others who have similar problems.
Click to expand...

Updated Test results after filtering over night and aeration.
PH 7.4-7.5 Cant really tell
TA 220
CH 60 (May bump this up to ~100. I have the calcium chloride from last year)
FC 2.5 Just added bleach to raise this back to 4. Will check it in an hour or so to verify.
CC 0
CYA 32ish

Progress pic and a few pictures of my homemade filter as requested:

- - - Updated - - -

It would not allow me to post the other pictures of the filter. Telling me I am above my quota.
Is there a daily quota for uploading?
 
Just a quick update after running my filter all night. I had a few piles of rust on the bottom this morning, but the water is much clearer. Cleaned the homemade filters out again this morning and vacuumed the bottom. Also backwashed my sand filter again.
Looking really good so far. I still have a little ways to go, but the pool should be spotless in another day or 2.
View attachment 36729
 

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I have high manganese in my well water, actual iron level is not detectible.

What I have learned is to add refill water slowly into the skimmer box with a chlorine puck in it and the filter will catch anything that precipitates out. I guess it super chlorinates the refill water causing the manganese to precipitate out.

I know I'm not supposed to use those chlorine pucks, but it works for me.

Don't know if you have a skimmer box or not, but it something you may want to try for refill water.
 
This is an interesting thread. Both HF1 and fiberoptik have demonstrated 2 ways of metal reduction in a pool that are cheap and about as effective as anything this forum has seen.

I hope we see some more folks giving this a try.
 
fiberoptik said:
Thanks Tim. Now if I can just find a good website that will teach me how to take care of my grass lol
Click to expand...

I have a neighbor that is a self proclaimed expert. Maybe I can send him your way???

Pool looks great and love the rust filters. I have a vinyl liner pool and high CH, the only side effect seems to be frequent cleaning of the SWG cell. But since yours is low, I would leave it right there.


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