Check valve issues/need a recommendation

Apr 9, 2013
131
Hey guys, hope this is right section for this...

We installed a solar controller and all was good until today. The solar panel has a pinhole leak, and I assumed when the controller shut the flow to the panel off the leak would stop...not the case though. I'm thinking the check valve isn't closing and allowing water to flow back to the panel. I manually shut off flow to the panel with the pvc ball valves and when I opened everything back up the leak stopped. So it seems like when flow to the check valve is cutoff the flapper has a chance to close and do its job, but the solar controller turning the valves doesn't give it that chance and the flow continues.

Does this sound like what's going on? Do I need a different better check valve?

Pipe is 1 1/4"

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I would replace both of those flex sump pump fittings, they are only designed to hold a little water from draining back into a sump pit. With those you are on borrowed time, the entire flex fitting is usually only rated to 4.3 psi. Your 2 hp pump has the ability to blow those out very easily draining your pool below the skimmer in minutes, leaving your pump running dry. I would look at the Jandy ones linked below or find a rigid flapper style that is sched 40 and hard pipe it, no flex couplers. Flex connectors are not pressure rated.
 
Some solar valves have a pin hole drilled in them (either at the factory or by the installer) to allow the pipes to drain back when the pump is turned off. The factory ones have a tiny check valve in them, the installer drilled ones don't.
 

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Well, the pool swing/flapper check valves like in the link do have a spring. But they add less head loss than the cheap PVC check valves.
Personally I wouldn't use a no-spring swing check in this application, for sure. The spring requires pressure to open, rated by the spring used. No-spring checks require only flow to open.

For example a spring loaded check valve rated at 5psi won't open at 4. The springs are color coded too.
 
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