new pool liner need help

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lonny996

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May 16, 2015
22
frankfort il
first off im a long time lurker first post i had a new liner installed today so i tested my fill water here are results

fc 0
ch 700
ta 190
ph 7.2

i plan on installing a swg my plan is to fill the pool with my hard water enough to get liner set about 12000 gals i measured and have just over 4gm at hose about 250gph which should take about 48hrs now the rest i will fill with water that is softened i can get 1000 gals of soft water per regen doing 2 regens per day i can get 2000 gals per day so the remaining fill will take 9 days hoping to get ch around 300 which i know is still very high my question is i know i need to treat water during this period but what should i be paying attention to most my thoughts were to just keep fc high and wait till pool is full to adjust others does this seem right
 
Welcome to TFP!

Unless you are on well water, you shouldn't need to adjust anything until the pool is full and the pump is running. The fill water will constantly be adding more chlorine, and even that small amount will be enough to keep things stable until the pool is full.

As soon as you have the pool full and the pump running, in addition to starting raising CYA, and adding chlorine regularly, you will want to work on lowering.
 
Use poolmath to calculate volume for you when it gets to be 8" deep or so. It's down at the bottom. Then plug that number in up top and see how much bleach you need to get from zero to 2 add add that into the hose stream. Do the same thing 24 hours later. That'll keep algae at bay until the thing is full, and FC won't be high enough - if any survives without CYA - to affect the pH test. It might be a waste of money.... but a buck's worth of bleach is some cheap peace of mind.
 
lonny996 said:
if i do get my ch down around 300 -350 do you think this will be a problem with swg as far as alot of buildup wondering how high folks on here with swg ch levels are
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The key to avoiding scale, both in your pool and in the SWG cell is keeping a very close eye on the CSI (Calcium Saturation Index). That is what determines whether the calcium stays dissolved in the water or deposits on surfaces. The CSI is affected by a number of factors including CH, pH, TA. If you use Pool Math, after you input your test results, look near the bottom of the chart for your CSI. With high CH levels you want to keep the CSI at or very slightly below zero. Never let it get positive by more than 0.6 or lower than -0.6. If you can, your target should be in the zero to -0.2 range. The higher the CH level gets, the more of a tight wire act that becomes. The biggest single factor in CSI (other than CH level) is your pH. An SWG can cause constantly rising pH and high TA which makes the tight wire act even harder. A fix for that can be lowering the TA to help stabilize pH and adding Borates which even further stabilizes pH.

Short answer- high CH levels can managed, even as high as 1,000, but the higher it gets, the more vigilant you must be about testing and balancing your water chemistry, especially CSI.

i hooked my auto refill to my house water softener to help keep the CH from rising so much due to evaporation. My current CH is right around 500. Every time I get a light to "Check Cell" it's perfectly clean, no scale at all, When my CH gets close to 1,000 I'll have to drain and refill.
 
im thinking my ch would never rise i could be wrong but this is my thinking as the water evaporates the calcium is left behind so at the lower water lvl the ch would be higher but if i added softened water at 0ch it would drop to original ch maybe lower because some water loss would be due to splash out assuming i added no calcium based products does this seem right or is there other ways that causes ch to rise also another question lets say my csi was a constant 0 never changed are you saying that there would never be any calcium buildup absolutely none now im talking in theory of course because calcium would be in dissolved form in the water the reason im asking i have been debating going to swg the main reason i am debating this is possible calciium bu on cells shortening life if i was worry free about the buildup it would make my decision much easier
 
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Even using only softened water for refill your CH will rise. It still contains some CH. But as far as using a SWG in an area with hard water, it's done all the time with very good results. If you keep the CSI level under control you will have no buildup ever in the cell. If you don't watch the CSI you will have scale everywhere, regardless of whether you have a salt pool or not.

The first few years with my pool I had to clean the cell about once a month with acid and I had rough scale building up on my tile and on all the surfaces in the pool. Then I learned about TFP and took control of my pools chemistry including watching the CSI. The scale disappeared and I no longer had to clean the cell. Even with the abuse the first few years my cell lasted over seven years. I replaced it at a cost of $400, making my chlorine cost average less than $57 per year.
 
that is great news think i will pull the trigger and go with aqua rite t-15. Just curious how many hrs a day and at what % you run yours. I know your pool is smaller than mine just hoping the cell is big enough for mine. I know it says produces 1.45 lbs of chlorine in 24 hrs im assuming that is at 100%. I dont know what 1.45lbs converts to in lets say bleach 6%
 
This time of year my SWG is set at 30% and it runs about 6 hours a day. As the temp (and use of the pool) goes up I'll have to boost it. But never above 50% x 8 hrs.
 

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i can't help much with that one. I designed and built my pool to be a salt pool. No stone anywhere, a cantilevered concrete deck with a textured vinyl finish. Nothing anywhere for salt to interact with.
 
started my pump today about 3/4 way full just plugged the skimmers and pumping through main drain lots of iron in pool it is suppose to rain for the next week everyday hoping to fill the rest of pool with rain water at 0 ch that will help alot with my hardness any idea the best way to remove iron
 
ok put chemicals in pool today then took readings this is what i have pool is only 25000 gals full hoping with all the rain coming i will get water with ch 0 was wondering about ta levels and ph levels in rain water if it will raise or lower the ph and ta levels

fc 4
cc 4
ph 7.7
ta 200
ch 600
cya 35

- - - Updated - - -

planning on putting muratic acid in tommorow to lower ph and ta then aerate like crazy
 
My experience has been that the rainwater aerates the pool and raises pH. But with California's strict air rules, I don't think we have acid rain.

As an aside... when I switched from manual swirling to using a speedstir, my CH results dropped about 200, from the 700s to the 500s.
 
lonny996 said:
so you are saying that the manual stiring is not stiring it up to get an accurate reading and my ch could be lower
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Yep. Have you seen a speedstir in action? It's great. I even bought extra stir bars so I can do all my tests before I have to wash the dishes. Sometimes when it's lingering purple, and extra minute on the speedstir will push it to blue. I can mix it for 5 minutes if I want, no problem.

​
 
boy that is neat thats what they had at leslies i watched the guy do my ch test for my fill water he did exactly 70 drops when i got home and did it it took me 81 drops i thought maybe i did it wrong and not wanting to redo it again wasting reagent how much are the speed stirs
 
lonny996 said:
boy that is neat thats what they had at leslies i watched the guy do my ch test for my fill water he did exactly 70 drops when i got home and did it it took me 81 drops i thought maybe i did it wrong and not wanting to redo it again wasting reagent how much are the speed stirs
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Order it for Father's Day. You can get refills at the same time. http://tftestkits.net/SpeedStir-Magnetic-Stirrer-p56.html

Do you use 10 ml or 25 ml for the test? If you use a 10 ml sample, each drop counts as 25, which is plenty accurate when you're up there. Instructions are in post 7 in the notes. It speeds it up and saves a lot of R-0012
 

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