Need to lower TA

Welcome! :wave:

No, you don't need to aggressively lower TA. But you do need to lower the pH. Lowering the pH will slightly lower TA. Just keep the pH in range and TA will come down over time.

You would do well to buy a better test kit. Strips are not reliable. The colors can bleed or bleach out with high FC levels, and if they get damp, they might appear to work but they won't be accurate. You're at a disadvantage in Canuckistan because TFtestkits can't ship there and the good Taylor test kits are massively overpriced up there.
 
Question! My TA is at 180, is this too high, do I need to lower it? Using the HTH 6-way test strips my readings are as follows FAC = 3; TCI = 3; Alk = 180; pH = 7.8; CyA = 30-50. Aquarius 3 way testing is FC = 3 and pH = 7.8 Salt is at 4140.

Thanks Richard320!
I should have mentioned that the Aquarius 3 way is OTO. I did the poolmath, it's recommending that I add muriatic acid in which I don't have. I have the HTH pH minus, will this do the same? If so, how long do I wait to do the test again?
 
Thanks Richard320!
I should have mentioned that the Aquarius 3 way is OTO. I did the poolmath, it's recommending that I add muriatic acid in which I don't have. I have the HTH pH minus, will this do the same? If so, how long do I wait to do the test again?
The dry acid pH Minus will do the same thing. Since you have it, use it. But when it's gone, hunt for some Muriatic Acid. It's generally cheaper and doesn't add Sulfates to the water.

If you've got things set up to aerate vigorously, a couple hours ought to be sufficient to see the pH rise again. From personal experience, the first round knocks TA down a lot. Each additional pH adjustment requires less acid and gets less TA drop and takes longer for the pH to rise again. So just expect it, and don't panic if things seem to be slowing down.
 
The dry acid pH Minus will do the same thing. Since you have it, use it. But when it's gone, hunt for some Muriatic Acid. It's generally cheaper and doesn't add Sulfates to the water.

If you've got things set up to aerate vigorously, a couple hours ought to be sufficient to see the pH rise again. From personal experience, the first round knocks TA down a lot. Each additional pH adjustment requires less acid and gets less TA drop and takes longer for the pH to rise again. So just expect it, and don't panic if things seem to be slowing down.

Great!!, GTG and lower the pH! Thanks a bunch!! :)
 
Ok, so I backwashed my filter with the intensions of removing water because the salt level was too high (4140). I added more water, tested the salt level the next morning and it was too low (1970). Added more salt (now @ 2310), it's rising however about an hour later, the pool seemed to be cloudy.

I just tested the water balance and my readings are as follows using Aquarius 3 way OTO test FC = 3; pH = 7.8.

Using the HTH test strips readings are as follows... FAC = 3; TCI = 3; AlK = 180; pH = 7.8; TH= 250; CyA = 0.

I know I still need to get my salt up to 3000 - 3400 I'm not concerned about that as my SWG isn't alarming. I need to know if I should add shock to the water or do I add something else such as pH minus or a stabilizer to bring up the CyA?

Thanks in advance! :)
 
Welcome bon. Hope things are working out for you
 
Welcome bon. Hope things are working out for you

Thank you Casey, I'm still trying to raise my CyA, I've been adding stabilizer a little at a time. I just added the recommended amount needed according to the poolmath. Hopefully this will do it. This is my third year with the pool, my first year opening it up as it's an intex pool, you normally take it down and store it for the winter. All my other chemicals are good for now. :grin:
 

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