SWG Problem

[dartmouthpool]

Hi
I have a 33k gallon, gunite pool. I have the Aquarite, with a T15 cell. I opened my pool a couple of weeks ago, added 1/4 total water volume and appropriate amount of NaCl, things were good. Salt read in the 3200 ppm range. I have had it open a couple of weeks, but didnt run SWG due to cold water temp, just added bleach.

This week, i turned the SWG back on and things were good. I vacuumed the pool, and left the SWG on, which i usually dont. Afterward, I had the message warning, "check cell" and "check salt". I cleaned the cell, which I did when I opened the pool, and put back on. Salt was reading initially at 400 ppm, and then 800. I call Hayward, the suggested getting digital NaCl analysis, I did it came in at 2600. So, the pool store gave me a new T15. I put it on, started it up, and again its reading -900 ppm, and within a couple of minutes the lights came on for 1) check cell and 2) check salt.

The pool stool said I did not have to reprogram the unit for the new cell, because I am swapping a T15 for a T15. I cant help but think it has something to do with reprograming the box or having it recognize that its a T15 cell?

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Im wondering if I need to reset the box somehow, or if there is something else potentially going on. Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

What is the temp of your water? SWG don't work so well if the water is in the 60s, and I don't know what MA pools warm up to in early May?

 

[Divin Dave]

They're right. If you change the cell, there isnt any reprogramming to do.

First, just confirm that the green POWER light is continuously lit up.

Generally, if you have low salt and inspect cell lit up, and cannot clear the fault, then either the cell is bad or the board has gone bad.

Next, write down all of the controller diagnostics values which can be found by pushing the DIAGNOSTICS button beside the LCD .
Here is a list of them, what they mean, and what they values are supposed to be.

Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will
cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
0 amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies
"Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. The cell size (T-15)
On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the
standard salt display.

Hi
I have a 33k gallon, gunite pool. I have the Aquarite, with a T15 cell. I opened my pool a couple of weeks ago, added 1/4 total water volume and appropriate amount of NaCl, things were good. Salt read in the 3200 ppm range. I have had it open a couple of weeks, but didnt run SWG due to cold water temp, just added bleach.

This week, i turned the SWG back on and things were good. I vacuumed the pool, and left the SWG on, which i usually dont. Afterward, I had the message warning, "check cell" and "check salt". I cleaned the cell, which I did when I opened the pool, and put back on. Salt was reading initially at 400 ppm, and then 800. I call Hayward, the suggested getting digital NaCl analysis, I did it came in at 2600. So, the pool store gave me a new T15. I put it on, started it up, and again its reading -900 ppm, and within a couple of minutes the lights came on for 1) check cell and 2) check salt.

The pool stool said I did not have to reprogram the unit for the new cell, because I am swapping a T15 for a T15. I cant help but think it has something to do with reprograming the box or having it recognize that its a T15 cell?

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Im wondering if I need to reset the box somehow, or if there is something else potentially going on. Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[dartmouthpool]

Thanks for the input. Yes, temp is above 60, 67-68.

The green power light is not flashing, on solid

The readings
1) 67
2) 3.9
3) 0.00 (not good!)
4) 40P correct
5) 0 (also not good)
6) AL-3, i changed it to AL-0 which I think was the original
7) r1.59
8) t-15

I should mention, this unit was installed last year. Check cell light just went off on the last day of the season, so probably 500 hours. Cell was clean. Pool chemistry is good, as is salt level.

Thanks
Ill put a call into Hayward today as well.

- - - Updated - - -

I know yesterday the current was in the normal range, and there was between 400-700 output of Cl

 

[dartmouthpool]

Resolved the problem. I started up the pump again today and held the diagnostic button for about 15 seconds, released and everything is fine. I guess it took that to link/sync, something the panel with the new cell. All is good.

Thanks so much for the input. I know I am pushing the temperature range in new england, but am using a heat pump and trying to extend my short season.

Hayward tech staff were very helpful. Suggested 1) hold diagnostic button down for 15 seconds, 2) turn power off and on (to auto) several times, or 3) run 24 hours on super chlorinate. I had no current reading using the new cell, they said the panel didnt recognize the new cell yet. Dont know if that makes sense, but all is good.

 

[Saturn94]

Thanks for reporting back. I also have an Aqua Rite/T-15 cell; this info may come in handy if I have any issues.