Green Pool = Mad Wife

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

mattyd34

0
May 11, 2015
6
Kent Store VA
I have a 24000 gal in ground vinyl lined SWG pool

I am suspect of the SWG but I don't know where to start. Couple questions:

1) I ordered a new Digi-Key resistor, can I just pull the old one off? Im fairly confident in my soldering skills.
2) Can I add chlorine tabs to get the water clear for the time being while I troubleshoot the SWG?
3) What do the numbers mean in sequence when I push the button?


IMG_0527.jpg

I don't have a test kit but I am going to get my numbers from the pool store tomorrow.
 
Welcome to TFP. You will find that the best way we can help you is if you purchase a recommended test kit. We don't trust pool store testing. We also don't recommend chlorine tabs as they may add CYA to your water. We recommend bleach for chlorination if you don't or cannot use your SWG.

Unfortunately I know nothing about your SWG so I cannot help you there.

What does your water look like right now?
 
You are going to definitely have to SLAM. There is a link in my signature for the TF 100 test kit, I recommend adding the speed stir and upgrade to the XL option.

I am assuming you cannot see the bottom. You can still try to use a leaf rake to drag stuff out of the bottom. I will let someone else chime in on how much bleach you should add since we don't have a full set of numbers.

You can read about the SLAM process in pool school. You are welcome to read my SLAM process as well it is in my signature.

- - - Updated - - -

Please if you go to the pool store tomorrow do not buy anything other than Stablizer if they say your CYA is low and a leaf rake and pole if you don't have one. Just tell them you will have to talk to your wife.
 
Matty,
if your POWER light is lightig up, the the problem is not the Current Limiter. When the current limiter goes, you dont get any Power Light at all, or it will only come one for a few seconds, then go off after it warms up.
If you do swap it out someday though, its easy. Just unsolder the old one from the board and put a new one on. Anyone even remotely familiar with a soldering iron can do it. I just replaced one for a friend last week.

Your Cell is most likely in need of replacement. Although, a bad PCB could also be the culprit, but it's rare and not likely that's the case.

Others have provided the best info to you available about clearing your green water. A good test kit is require because of the FAS-DPD type of test is only avialable in the recommended kits. You have GOT to have that test.

And do some reading in Pool School while waiting on a kit. No one expects you to learn it all at once, so feel free to ask questions.


Here are the definitions of the diagnostic codes for the Aquarite
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
0 amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies
"Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
On the 8th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the
standard salt display
 
Most algaecide's contain copper as it is an algae inhibitor. No reason to put copper in your water. The only one I know of is polyquat 60 algaecide which doesn't contain copper.
The only way to kill algae is high levels of chlorine. Algaecide's won't kill algae.
All you need to do to prevent algae is to keep your FC in the sweet spot for your CYA level by not letting the FC fall below the min for the CYA level and you'll never have an algae outbreak.
I've never used algaecide's and I've never had an algae outbreak.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Agree 100%
What you need to rid the pool of algae is chlorine, and you need to maintain that chlorine a SLAM level until it is gone, gone, gone...

then after that, if you maintain FC to TFP recommendations. If you do that the FC will be sufficient to fight off any more algae spores that tries to get in the pool.

pwrstrk said:
Skip the algaecide ! It won't help.
Click to expand...
 
The stuff I used was a tan color - no copper - and worked fine. It was while I was opening last summer I started getting some while I was getting to spec. I don't get the hue and cry, here...

And the question "What's up with the FC 1-3 in your signature?" that's what's in the manual for the salt generator. Since I have water solar it's a battle to keep it below 5+, since it runs a lot. I'm at 35% run time on my SWG.
 
Chuckiechan said:
The stuff I used was a tan color - no copper - and worked fine. It was while I was opening last summer I started getting some while I was getting to spec. I don't get the hue and cry, here...

And the question "What's up with the FC 1-3 in your signature?" that's what's in the manual for the salt generator. Since I have water solar it's a battle to keep it below 5+, since it runs a lot. I'm at 35% run time on my SWG.
Click to expand...

I asked because 3-4 should be your minimum with the 50-75 cya in your signature, not the maximum.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply