question about powder chlorine

lefty51

0
Platinum Supporter
This should probably be listed under dumb questions, but here goes. I am in the process of slamming after opening the swamp for spring. last summer we switched to SWG when new liner was installed. Until the TF-100 arrives I'm guessing how much of my chlorine reading is good chlorine. I have now learned I should be using liquid chlorine instead of leftover granule chlorine from before SWG. My question is --- if I dissolve the granules completely in a bucket before adding to the pool is that basically the same as adding "Clorox" liquid. (Apart from the different chemical makeup of course.) I would like to finish off the bucket I have, plus figure out what to do with the small bucket of 3" tabs. If it would be better to use liquid bleach I do have another use for old stuff instead of pool. Dissolving it first is timing consuming, but hey I'm retired-- so what else do I have to do :sleep: 63 and still learning !!
 
No, it's not the same as liquid. Solid forms of chlorine all have something that the chlorine is bound to to keep it stable in the solid form. Generally this is CYA or calcium.

Stick with true liquid forms unless you need the additional products coming along for the ride.
 
What type of powder is it? Dichlor or Cal Hypo? Either way, no, it's not the same as bleach when dissolved in water. The hypochlorite part is the same, but powders have other chemical components that may make it undesirable. Dichlor will add CYA to your pool, which may be too high already. You won't know until you get a proper test kit. You do not have your pool surface listed but cal hypo may be undesirable as it will add CH (calcium hardness) to your pool as well. Not critical for vinyl surfaces, but more important for plaster.

Stick to bleach until you get a test kit.

As far as the tablets, hang onto them and use when gone from home/vacation. Just know that they add CYA as well, just a bit less than dichlor, if they are trichlor tablets.
 
That's ok, you can stop guessing once you have the kit. Our focus here is knowledge. Start building on what you know with the information in Pool School. The ABCs is a good place to start. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you have them. There will be someone here to answer them for as long as you are willing to learn.
 
ok, a quick follow up on the chlorine. just tested cya with test strip. don't know how accurate, but it looks like CYA has climbed to somewhere between 100-150 ? Is that from using the Dichlor instead of bleach ? Using SWG chart I should be between 70 -80. I hate to replace half the water to lower. Is there a good lowering agent or should I change water slowly and just add more bleach to compensate for high CYA and wait it out for now
 

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I too suspect you have sent you CYA sky high with the dichlor, we will know soon enough, don't feel alone in making this mistake though, as I have seen at least 3 other SLAM threads here in the last week where people did the exact same thing.
 
Thanks for the quick replies fellas, I think I'll just add the bleach and work on the cloudiness for now. I can see the bottom drains (barely) now, so I'm getting somewhere. I can add water from the faucet or when I pump the water from underneath the pool (it's raining regularly right now). That water is clean and clear but has a chemistry of PH-8.2, TA-150 so I guess I'll have to lower those as I replace water. I built a waterfall/aerator using the ones on here as a guide so that will help when I add acid. Now I wish I had told them to ship kit overnight !! :(
 
Thanks Beens, PH says 7.8-- TA 110. I think I leave that alone and work on chlorine. Should I keep aerating so PH doesn't drop ?
I feel you should read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end. As Beens points out, one of the first things you do before raising the chlorine up to shock level is to bring the pH down to about 7.2

To pass the SLAM:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
The water is clear

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

Try not to get too much ahead of yourself before your test kit arrives.
 
your right I am getting ahead of myself. I've been reading up on procedures--- I think I should just kick back and wait till I can determine the score. I'll just keep reading up and do as you say, when I get the kit start from go and follow through. It's too cool to go swimming yet anyway
Well, read through the SLAM procedure a few times.

Then, read these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Then, watch the videos of the tests.
 
your right I am getting ahead of myself. I've been reading up on procedures--- I think I should just kick back and wait till I can determine the score. I'll just keep reading up and do as you say, when I get the kit start from go and follow through. It's too cool to go swimming yet anyway

This is a good plan! With the reading started you'll be ready to go when the kit arrives and you'll receive very specific help once you can post your first set of test results!
 
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