Cdclw

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cdclw

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Feb 8, 2015
33
san diego
High CYA may be the root of my problems CYA at 99--
Jandy/zodiac SWA quit this winter, just replaced with new 3 port cell, doesn't seem to be producing any free chlorine.. but all tests show working proper... HELP
Pool store (Leslie's) test:
Salt 3000
CH: 550 (high)
CYA: 99
Copper/Iron 0
Phosphates 100
PH 7.5
Free Chlorine goes high after adding Clorox Dichlo, and goes to zero quickly

Leslie's Pool sold me new expensive "Zodiac Perfect weekly" for phosphates

Pool goes green overnight with some black algae on rock scapes

I live in SoCal, very expensive to drain pool.. but chems are expensive too!

Question-- is CYA my problem? pool store didn't say anything about that!! I read the sticky, ready to attack the pool... do i need real chlorine vs. Dichlo packs? am I wasting time with CYA.. is there anything I can do about that? do i need black algae killer.. or just chlorine? ... is my SWG not producing because of CYA?
 
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Welcome to TFP!

The root of your problem is a lack of one of the recommended test kits. But, likely high CYA is your problem and replacing water is the solution. Dichlor adds more CYA, you need to stick to liquid chlorine.
 
Here's a secret: 99 is pool store shorthand for "off the scale."

Here's another secret: phosphates aren't a problem in a balanced pool. I've never had my pool tested for phosphates, and yet, my pool has never had an algae bloom since I've owned it. That's five years. Here's an even bigger secret: You shouldn't add the unnecessary phosphate remover if there's algae!
Important: Algae must be treated prior to testing and lowering phosphates. Chlorine must be under 5ppm before testing phosphates.
Click to expand...
View the Instructions right on the manufacturer's website. and see it yourself. Great advice they're giving at the pool store, huh?

The symptoms you're describing indicate an algae bloom. Your SWG is probably working. It just can't keep up with the demand. The algae uses it all up as fast as it can create it. Let the weather get hot and that pool will probably pick up a green tint.

You're making things worse by tossing in dichlor shock - it just adds more CYA to the water.

You need two things: knowledge and wisdom. The knowledge comes from your own reliable testing. The wisdom is in pool school and these forums. Right now, you haven't got a clue just how high your CYA level really is. It could easily be over 200. That's 3X the recommended level for a saltwater pool! When I took over my pool, I was up around 220 or 240. It's hard to be exact when you have to dilute the sample because the tester won't read above 100.

Assuming you want this fixed fast, the best thing to do is head straight to http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html and order up a TF100 with the XL option. I use a speedstir for all my tests. Could never go back to not having it. And with a SWG, you need salt test strips. It's a chunk o'change, but it's an investment. You probably spent close to that on the phosfree you didn't need. Once the pool is under control, you won't be buying much but acid and maybe a little salt to replace splashout. A couple bucks a week. And you'll never have to go inside a pool store again except to get obscure parts.
 
Ok, so I finally ordered a kit.. should be here soon. Doing my best with the TFP algae protocol...
In the meantime, sent wife to Leslie's for another test (more on that in a minute... sigh)
Was surprised to see that CYA had dropped to 70... not sure how that happened??, although, I have been using liquid chlorine.. didn't think CYA could drop without draining.. this was a different Leslie's, hope there isn't that much test discrepancy between stores...
-FAC/TAC both at 2.0
-Phosphates at 500, i know it doesn't matter, but Leslie's was all over it... gave wife the " Algae Free Guarantee" protocol, called and made me talk to the "so knowledgable" rep... had a special deal on "green to clean" .. which I saw TFP does not recommend.. sent wife to costco to get deal on bleach.. she is convinced I'm crazy.."but honey, I read on this website" .. "yeah right." This better work...

I am in the gray & cloudy stage for most part, keeping TFC high, but still getting light dusting of green algae after 2-weeks...
- is it safe to assume i should run vacum continuously... ?
- BIG QUESTION is about some persistent spots of black algae, only on my fake rocks which are concrete.. is this the algae producer? very hard to get off.. and doesn't seem to be dying ... is this my persistent problem?
- what level does my CYA need to get to?

THANKS! wife's clock is ticking-- ready to go to that knowledgable Leslies guy that was "so helpful"....
 
jblizzle said:
Forget the pool store tests.

If it is really black algae, then you need to scrub it while at shock level FC.
Click to expand...

read description of black algae, hard to get off, etc.. I am pretty sure i have it... have scrubbed, but still dots of it here and there... kind of a complex pool with rocks, infinity trough.. .so harder to find everything....still get light dusting of mustard.. I have been at high FC level for a week, cya 70

Do I need a black algae killer?
 

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cdclw said:
read description of black algae, hard to get off, etc.. I am pretty sure i have it... have scrubbed, but still dots of it here and there... kind of a complex pool with rocks, infinity trough.. .so harder to find everything....still get light dusting of mustard.. I have been at high FC level for a week, cya 70

Do I need a black algae killer?
Click to expand...
Define "high." Is your CYA 70? Shock level is 28 FC. Is it 99? Then shock level is 30 FC! :shock:

You've seen with your own eyes that pool store tests are worth what you paid for them -- nothing!

Once you have your own test kit, get your own test results. Watch the videos to see how to run 'em. And THEN go after the algae. Right now, you're working blind. The only thing all those pool store chemicals will kill is your wallet.
 
As others have pointed out, your CYA didn't go down from 99 to 70, they just didn't do one or both test correctly. the CYA test is the one they mess up the most. Take the wife out to dinner to get her mind off of the nice guy at Leslie's until your test kit comes in......
 
It is a good level for a SWG. However, since you will have to do a SLAM it is easier with CYA around 30 unless you own stock in Clorox. You will not be using your SWG during the SLAM.

Once your test arrives post numbers in this thread.

Follow the advice previously given as well as future advice and you will have a beautiful pool.
 
So I did get my test kit...

Yeah, looks like 2nd CYA test was wrong at Leslie's, I got CYA=100

so i spent the weekend shocking the pool to FC between 20-25.. I know I was supposed to get it up around 32, but seemed impossible at my cya level.. i used 6 boxes of 3-clorox bottles...

Pool is mostly cloudy "chalky-white" looking -- I hope that is good. If not, or if algae comes back, I guess I will have to try to get CYA down. Turned SWG back on, maybe the algae bloom will be under control enough for SWG to keep up.. I don't see any algae, guess i will know soon if I've killed it... I did have some black algae tHat i was able to brush off at shock level...

tks
 
You are not following the SLAM. You have to either lower your CYA or add enough bleach or liquid chlorine to target the SLAM level you should be at. I would leave the SWG off. It is designed to maintain a balanced pool.you are just taking away from cell life.

Also keep in mind the test only goes to 100for CYA. Your CYA may actually be higher.

Can you please post a full set of numbers since you have your kit.
 
pooldv said:
Please add your pool info to your signature as shown here, Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Click to expand...

ok, manana

- - - Updated - - -

Tks AZGirl, will post numbers tomorrow...

Does it make sense to Slam at this CYA-level? will i have to continue to pour a lot of chlorine to maintain levels?

Is it best (cheaper) to take care of CYA first?

(there has to be a govt watch list for buying that much Chlorine!)... TKS!
 

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