What to do first???

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Harry26

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May 9, 2015
35
Myrtle Beach SC
I have an oval 14 x 28 inground vinyl pool....I figure about 12000 gallons.....I have had a lot of green algee problems...I've used all the algesides at different times....As of now,the algee is gone from the walls and floor...
But,the water is green...I have been vacuuming it almost daily....I bought some green to clean but,haven't gotten it yet....

My question is in what order do I adjust the water....PH is low low,off the scale....I'm not getting any chlorine reading...When trying the alkaline test,I put in reagent 006(2 drops)when I put in 007 it doesn't turn green but, goes right to red...

I bought gallons of 8.25% bleach and the Borax as well as some PH up.....Which do I do first????Get the PH right or the chlorine level up???
 
Harry26 said:
I have an oval 14 x 28 inground vinyl pool....I figure about 12000 gallons.....I have had a lot of green algee problems...I've used all the algesides at different times....As of now,the algee is gone from the walls and floor...
But,the water is green...I have been vacuuming it almost daily....I bought some green to clean but,haven't gotten it yet....

My question is in what order do I adjust the water....PH is low low,off the scale....I'm not getting any chlorine reading...When trying the alkaline test,I put in reagent 006(2 drops)when I put in 007 it doesn't turn green but, goes right to red...

I bought gallons of 8.25% bleach and the Borax as well as some PH up.....Which do I do first????Get the PH right or the chlorine level up???
Click to expand...
Add pH up first.

It adds more TA than the Borax, and you need some. Use poolmath to calculate the dose, let it mix at least half an hour - brushing helps mix it, too - and recheck the pH. If you're off the scale, it might need a second or third dose.

When the pH is right, then you can worry about clearing the green.

It would be helpful if you post all your test results, including CYA. CYA level determines how high the FC needs to be.
 
Yours is a classic example of the benefit in posting complete test results. Now that we know the CYA is over 100, we can suggest you lower CYA first, then raise your pH.

To lower CYA, you'll need to do partial drains and refills.....it's the only way. Once your CYA is manageable, you can then adjust pH.

Don't wait too long. Algae is gonna take over your pool so you need to SLAM, but CYA then pH should come first.

PS - I just now saw and deleted your thread about CYA. It is VERY confusing to talk about the same subject in two threads. Keep ALL your posts here under this thread.
 
OK,will do.....My pool doen't have a drain.I can only empty upto skimmer level..In this case,what to do???Drain as much as I can,refill and repeat???? Whoops,just saw that the drain,refill and repeat is the way...Thanks....I've had the pool 10 years and always used Home Depot chemicals..I get alge every year but,manage it with algesides and clarifier...I've been using the tri chlor 3" tablets all these years and I keep the pool open all year long...That explains the super high CYA level....Your way sounds way better and much less expensive...Glad I found you...I'll have to buy the FAS-DPD test from you...My Taylor 2005 has everything else,I think....Probably need some fresh reagents as well...
 
I would suggest you go out and rent or buy a submersible pump. Or if you put a hose in the skimmer hole and run it to the bottom of the pool you might be able to drain more that way if you have a Waste function on your filter. Do not use backwash.

You just need to add the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test to your kit to have the equivalent of the K-2006.
 
No the OTO is a good simple color match (shades of yellow) kit, that is great to detect the presence of chlorine, but not good to tell the exact amount, we often suggest using it as a sanity check, and perhaps as routine daily testing, saving the more expensive FAS-DPD test once / twice per week. There is also a color match DPD test which is shades of pink (which bleaches out at high FC), this is also NOT the FAS-DPD test which is a drop counting for color change test.

The FAS-DPD test is generally only available as a stand alone test, or included in the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kits. (I think it is also included in a couple of other Taylor kits, that are not appropriate for swimming pools, so don't get mentioned). The FAS-DPD part of the kit is the difference between the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006 kit, often we have members go to Leslies and are told they are the same kit, they come back with the K-2005 which has the color matching DPD test and we tell them they can fix the mistake by buying the stand alone FAS-DPD part of the kit.
 

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I did 2 partial drain and refills today..I added a gallon of bleach and a 3.5 LB box of Borax....I tested about 3 hours later and have the same results as before I started....CYA off the chart,no chlorine,super low PH....I have a submersible pump and tomorrow I'll drain about 2/3 and then refill.....Am I on the right track????
BTW,I stocked up on bleach,Borax and Baking soda...So, I have the 3 B's waiting.....
 
Can't get pH up or a chlorine reading

After draining my pool by about 1/2, My CYA is about 90..My TA is 70...I added about 12 pounds of Borax..I still can't get a readable PH...I added 12 gallons of 8.25% bleach and still can't get a readable clorine level....Now What do you suggest????
 
I drained at least 1/2 the pool and refilled along with 2 drains down to skimmer and refill...My numbers now are CYA 90.TA 70.....I added 12 pounds of Borax and 6 pounds of baking soda and 2pounds of PH up...I added 12 gallons of 8.25% bleach and still can't get a readable level of chlorine...I guess I need more bleach for the chlorine..What do you suggest to raise the PH to a normal level???Adding the Borax raised the TA but,not the PH. I still don't have even a readable level of PH...
 
Borax raises pH much more than the TA. It is the baking soda that raised your TA. I would suggest you keep adding borax, but given we do not know what your FC level is ... the pH test may not be valid.

You are using the pink color matching DPD chlorine test aren't you? Since you say you have the K-2005. Well, that is the worst chlorine test because it will bleach out and show low chlorine even if it is very high.

You need to add the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test to your kit.
 
OK,I just ordered the FAS-DPD from you.....Hopefully that will give a better chlorine reading

BTW,I retested the PH and it's showing like 7.5....I think you're right about my chlorine test being bleached out...I get like a light orange color,not on the scale....As soon as you send the new test I'll let you know..Thanks...My pleasure supporting this great site..Especially with something I obviously need...
 

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