My new intelliflo arrived today. I plan to install tomorrow. I pulled the old pump out tonight to test fit the new one. The old one was bolted to the cement with rusty bolts,that was enjoyable to remove. I had planned on just sitting the new pump on the cement. Is it bad if I don't screw it down somehow?
new pump install question
- Thread starter robl45
- Start date
That's what I figured. I was just worried I would stress the PVC when opening the pump cover. Any ideas on the wiring? I need it like 3 inches longer. HD sells 6 foot whip I was gonna use, but then I need to slice somehow.
I actually think it is less stress on the pvc because things can expand and contract a little without resistance.
I'm not clear on the wiring question. Sounds like you need to wire it back to the timer/breaker with new work. I would try not to have a splice near the pump. A pic might help.
I'm not clear on the wiring question. Sounds like you need to wire it back to the timer/breaker with new work. I would try not to have a splice near the pump. A pic might help.
I'm so angry now I'm not thinking straight. I spent 3 plus hours today installing this thing. Got a little plastic 90 degree elbow for the electrical, everything was good and I turn it on and there were leaks. On the output side two joints had leaks. That was the first bad news. The real bad news is the output union was leaking. I figured it wasn't tight enough so I tightened it more, and more and more and it still leaked. Finally I said let me swap it for the front union and see if the union is the problem. The union that I tightened wouldn't come off. I had to destroy the union finally getting it off with a pipe wrench and a hammer and my plastic 90 degree elbow broke off inside the screw whole and that wasn't fun to screw on in the first place. When I finally did get the union out, imagine that it spun right into the input threads with no issue and the union that was working fine had the same problem on the output threads. I know stuff happens, but this is a collosal nightmare for me now.
Sounds like the Marines when they work on their UAV's.. a bit of Teflon Pipe Tape works wonders when assembling (or dis-assembling..) threaded fittings.
Yea, put that on the leaking one and then screwed it to the point I thought I would crack something and it still leaked. The o ring on the union is hitting the housing on one side and not on the other, on the input side it's flat all around on the housing. Both unions are the same way depending on where they are placed. I'm guessing bad threads on the out put port. I'm hoping pentair covers the union considering their defect caused it to be destroyed.
Yes, either the Pump Housing has a defect, or the original Union got cross-threaded, and now nothing will seat properly. Pentair will cover the Pump Housing if defective, but if its been cross-threaded, you may have to replace it yourself. As well, look in the big box stores for the thick blue pipe tape. It seals the best, and holds up better over time. The brand name escapes me at the moment.
Not possible that it got cross threaded,I mean anything is possible but it starts somewhat normally and then like halfway through tightens up. Do I have to ship it back to them or do you take it somewhere to exchange?
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What do you mean cover the pump housing? Its a brand new pump. I hope they don't expect me to swap it. That's more leaks and problems waiting to happen.
The Pump Housing is the part that holds the Impeller, and moves water from the Suction Port to the Discharge Port. The Unions are a large pipe thread, and are designed to tighten as they are further screwed in. The tightening alone will most likely not stand up to pressure, hence the need for Thread Sealant Tape, or Silicone Sealant, and with regard to the pipe tape, many more wraps than with a smaller fitting, for instance a small metal pipe and metal fitting. Are the threaded areas on this pump metal, or is the housing made of a Fiber Reinforced Plastic? If it is FRP, there it's a very good possibility that there could be cross-threading, or otherwise damaged threads. If metal, I doubt it, but there could also be a small split or other damage from tightening the original Union the way you described. I would call Pentair, and talk to them. As for coverage, discuss that with them as well.. however, if there is damage to the Discharge Port threads, due to overtightening, or other improper installation or tooling use (on your part) you can not very well expect them to cover this. Just sayin..
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I just typed a whole long thing and then my computer decided to erase it. At any rate, it surely wasn't me who damaged it. I'm sure they very well could be damaged now due to their defective threads. I got a 15 dollar union that's destroyed now. I expect them to cover that too.
anyway, I went and tested it again, the union goes in probably 80 percent easy turn by hand, then it gets stuck. Same as the first time I put it in. I fail to see how anyone could cross thread something that spins in 80% of the way with little effort.
On a different note, has anyone tried the process of sucking glue into leaking joints?
On a different note, has anyone tried the process of sucking glue into leaking joints?
I've seen some comments about that, but can't comment directly on it. Does the heavy pink teflon tape not seal that? Craziness. Hate it when stuff doesn't go according to plan.
If youre set on salvaging your existing setup, yes, sucking glue will work on the Suction side fitting.. (great trick if you've gone cheap initially, and not used a Union.. ) but glue will not suck into the pressure side. Your best bet is to get some strong EXTERIOR silicone caulk (clear), and completely, thoroughly coat the threads on BOTH the Union fitting, and the Pump threads, then assemble, and tighten. Be sure to let the Caulk dry for at least 24 hours, preferably 48 or more, before turning the pump on. If you become impatient, and turn it on before the Silicone is completely cured INSIDE the threads, as well as out, you will be doing the job again. Personally, I'd probably try to RMA that thousand dollar Pump, especially if it's a manufacturing defect.. QA Personnel miss stuff on the final checks on ocassion.. you could then start again with fresh everything. Good luck ..
By the way, are you using actual Pentair Pump Unions, that maybe shipped with the Pump, or some other manufacturers Unions?? They may be proprietary.. just wondering.. and regarding thread damage, it would not have been the first 80% that damaged anything, but that last 20% was obviously a real mess, given the brute force techniques you described using to extract the stuck fitting..
Yes the pump I'm calling pentair about tomorrow. My pressure side plumbing that I had to redo has a couple of slow leaks. I hooked up a shop vac and let more glue suck in so hopefully that fixes it. The way the plumbing is,it will be a pain to cut it out.
At any rate, I couldn't do the silicone idea even if I wanted, the thread sealant I put on the threads the last time didn't even stay on as the threads in that housing seem to be cut wrong. I'm thinking of getting a steel pipe and trying to thread that in to fix the threads like I read about in another thread. Hopefully pentair will take care of it but I can't wait forever.
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They are pentair or maybe another brand made for pentair. Both work perfect on the intake. I scraped the threads of the destroyed union and I think I saved it, so now I just need a pump that won't leak.
I spoke to Pentair, they are sending another housing. Not really thrilled to be taking a brand new pump apart, but hopefully that fixes it. They were going to send someone out, but told me I had to pay for labor which was utterly ridiculous that I'm supposed to pay for their defective part to be changed. I don't think I'll be using Pentair again.
So meanwhile its Thursday and still they haven't shipped it. Yesterday they claimed that their was a machine problem and it would definately go out yesterday. I do not think I will be using any pentair products again.
Wanted to update, I got my new housing and installed it. No joke the threads were fine in the new housing yet the union on the output still didn't want to go in that freely, the input side went in no problem same as last time. I purposely swapped the unions too from output to input to alleviate any issues. The input side was fine, the output side leaked yet again. I tightened down the output union with a strap wrench until the oring was slightly compressed and now it appears to not leak. At least the union went in straight this time. So far the pump seems to be working. The Salt generator however is another issue for another thread.