Replumbing the pad advice

[dickeystorm]

Hi all,

I'm preparing to replumb my equipment pad. To many leaks and to many patchs, time to do it right, any tips are welcome. I've been looking at the Jandy neverlube valves vs a less expensive ball valve with a union on either side for easy replacement should it fail, thoughts?

For pipe, is schedule 40 or schedule 80 typically used? For all the various fittings and unions, are the box store components reliable enough? I'm under the impression that they are the same regardless of where I get them.

I'm removing a heater and simplifying the run. I'll post before and after pics eventually when done.

Thanks

 

[jblizzle]

Definitely use the Neverlube (or equivalent) valves. I suggest the 2/2.5 versions so 2" pipe will slip into the valve.

Schedule 40 is the standard, I recommend using 2" ... and only use Sch 40 fittings, no DWV fittings.

 

[crabboy]

No plans to use the spa in the future? As for your plumbing, Jason already said exactly what I would have.

 

[dickeystorm]

Ooops, forgot my primary question. Is it normal for the intake lines to be 2" and the return lines 1.5". Seems odd.

I'll post a before picture as soon as I remember how to do it.

 

[jblizzle]

That is not uncommon ... head loss on the suction side is a little more of a big deal. There can also be issues if the head loss is too low on the return side (but this would require some pretty special circumstances I think).

Certainly safe to use 2" everywhere.

 

[dickeystorm]

No, no plans to use the spa. We picked up a used Hot Springs spa I'm going to fix up. Much cheaper to run and better jets.

 

[dickeystorm]

The before picture.

 

[dickeystorm]

The plan.

 

[crabboy]

Looks like a good plan to me. Is here a concrete pad beneath the heater, that filter will weigh quite a bit more.

 

[msumoose]

Use rigid 3/4" for the booster pump. I hate hate hate Polaris hose. Inevitably the retaining ring on the Polaris fitting will slip and water will spray everywhere. They are also a pain to install/remove/reinstall.

Use unions on both sides of everything!!

 

[dickeystorm]

Here are some shots of the process...

- - - Updated - - -

Crabboy, yes there is consrete under the heater. You can see it in the pic in the previous post.

msumoose, I agree, didn't think of it though. A future upgrade. Those retaining rings you mentioned ripped my hand up and fought me every inch of the way.

 

[dickeystorm]

For the curious, here's what a dirty DE filter looks like. With a clean view, an inside view and all the parts that makeup the filter.





- - - Updated - - -

And finally, my reward for all the work...more work ... (sarcasm) ...



dead stuff and nasty and smelly tomorrow begins the slam

 

[Richard320]

No, THIS is what a dirty DE filter looks like.

 

[dickeystorm]

WOW

 

[dickeystorm]

Post SLAM. Well, ok, I didn't follow the SLAM process super accurately but it worked. I brought the pool to shock level after dark on the 17th and got this next morning...



1 bottle of bleach during the day and some raking and some vacuuming...

 

[dickeystorm]

Day 2, more raking and vacuuming...




so far we had to backwash and recharge the DE filter 3 times. I expect to have to backwash once more. Hopefully I'll get the vacuuming done and without backwashing and I'll break it down and clean it out thoroughly.

The dark stuff in the bottom is a mix of oak leaves and oak pollen due to a large tear in the BRAND NEW cover, doesn't pay to buy cheap.

Took about 10 bottles of bleach.

Thanks for the help.

 

[dschribs]

Cool post. I have a cartridge filter and have never seen the inside of a DE filter.

That looks like a nice pool. Lots of privacy.

 

[jblizzle]

Since you did not follow the SLAM process and pass the 3 criteria to stop (especially the OCLT), do not be surprised if problems start again.

 

[dickeystorm]

Follow up: I did follow the SLAM process and passed all 3 criteria. Just wasn't well focused,