Hayward H400ED2 heater code HF

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nexx2

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Bronze Supporter
Jun 27, 2014
63
Slidell, La
Hi,

When i push the on button the unit makes a clicking noise for about 5 sec and then the display shows error code HF which my manual says is a flame fault failure and to replace the igniter. However, I unscrewed the bracket for igniter and pulled out from under heater. I can clearly see the spark across the electrodes when i push the start button . I verified that gas valve was in open position and also took off the nozzles and cleaned some spider webs out.
Any suggestions on what direction to go now.

Thank you
 
Usually when these unit try to light, it will try three times and then display a IF code. IF indicates ignition failure and then it could be the ignitor. HF could be a bad board or even a bad gas valve. Do you smell any gas when it tries to light?
 
The manual says HF for the code, Flame sense failure for diagnosis step, and Replace igniter for remedy. The igniter sparks so I do not see how that could be whats wrong.

I was reminded that the last few times the heater was used this past winter it would cycle a couple of times before lighting. Not sure if that has anything to do with current problem.
 
When the ignitor sparks, the gas valve would open to allow gas flow. You should smell gas. So it tries three times to light and then displays the HF?
 
The problem now is it tries only one time and then the HF code displays and I do not smell any gas while it tries to light that one time.

This past winter it would cycle 2 or 3 times before lighting and I would smell gas during the cycles. I mentioned this in case it would help diagnose the problem above.
 
nexx2 said:
Hi,

When i push the on button the unit makes a clicking noise for about 5 sec and then the display shows error code HF which my manual says is a flame fault failure and to replace the igniter. However, I unscrewed the bracket for igniter and pulled out from under heater. I can clearly see the spark across the electrodes when i push the start button . I verified that gas valve was in open position and also took off the nozzles and cleaned some spider webs out.
Any suggestions on what direction to go now.

Thank you
Click to expand...

I trouble shot the same problem. My ignited worked just fine when I pulled it out. I was getting an IF code after 3 unsuccessful attempts to ignite. I could smell gas, but apparently it wasn't enough. So, it looks like after 10 years, the gas supply line has filled with water from a bad stab fitting underground. I uncoupled the line and blew out about a half-gallon of water. This line will be repaired next week, so hopefully that takes care of everything.
 
Just from my experience, HF was not the ignitor. But I might be wrong this time. You could try cleaning the ignitor with a little steel wool and see if that makes any difference. Keep in mind, do not bend the fingers on the ignitor. They are spaced a certain distance apart, like a spark plug. Get that gap off and you will have issues lighting.
 
Yesterday I took the ignitor off and cleaned with steel wool, made sure it was making ground and reinstalled. Next, I put heater in standby mode and disconnected the two wires going to the gas valve and measured 15vac. I then pressed until light was on pool, vaguely hear the ignitor sparking for a couple of seconds and then goes to HF code. The 15vac never changed. Could this mean the flame sensor on ignitor is not working therefore is not sending info to control board to open gas valve or is the board not processing the info, or neither. Hope this new info will help in troubleshooting.
Thanks
 
You should have closer to 24V at the valve. You should also feel and hear the gas valve click to open. If you don't feel or hear the gas valve click, it's not opening. The flame sensor won't sense anything until after the unit has lit. Once the unit lights, it has about 4 seconds to send the signal to the control board it is lit. During this entire process the gas valve is open. Do you smell any gas? I'm on the fence between a control board or the gas valve but teetering more towards the side of the control board though.
 

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Well if you don't smell any gas and don't hear/feel the valve click then it isn't going to light. I did rethink about the comment I made about having close to 24V at the valve and 15v would probably do it. A new gas valve is cheaper than a board so you could replace that.
 
Just came in from double checking my findings. I removed the white and orange wire from gas valve. Across the 2 wires I have approx. 15 vac all the time. Whether just the yellow standby light is on or i push the button and it goes to red on spa or pushing it again and going to red on pool, even when i hear igniter for a few seconds, and when it goes to HF in display, always 15 volts. Across the 2 spade terminals on gas valve I read 3meg ohms with toggle switch in on position and it goes to wide open when moved to the off position.
Just triple verified that if i quit cycling the heater for about 15 minutes, or longer, I can feel and hear the gas valve click when I put the red led to pool and then shortly after HF appears. The gas valve will not click on subsequent attempts unless i let it rest for awhile. Scratching my head!
 
That is what i was doing, power cycling. what I noticed was during the first cycle the gas vavle would make clicking noise and if i power cycled immediately afterwards the gas valve would not click again until the heater sat for awhile.
Last night sitting by pool, I had not messed with the heater for several hours, display was still flashing the way I left it. I heard the familiar click from gas valve and looked up in time to see that hf had cleared , it tried to light, and then went back to HF!

The user manual says I should be getting 24ac at the gas valve.
I checked the voltage to the unit and got the 120 and 240.
 
Yes you should have 24v at the valve but it can be +/- a few. If it were me, of course I have access to all the parts, I would try a board as it's an easy replacement.
 
You have to buy the entire assembly unless you can find just the board on ebay buy not sure it would be much cheaper. As for the return if it's not the right part, not sure.
 
Just out of curosity, take a look at the control board and see if where the ignitor plugs in is solidly soldered. I do recall having a few of those spots come unsoldered and caused issues.
 

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