Light 2 heater won't kick on.

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1031982

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Nov 6, 2013
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I believe we have the LG model, it's control interface uses knobs.
I got the pool ready to go, except the heater won't start. Pilot is lit, and stays lit. We had this before, and had a guy wire it up to that the temp switch was bypassed.
Last year, we had to get some people out to fix it as a few things went bad like the pilot light.

Cutting to the chase, I have some experience with wiring things up, but I don't know how to set this up to bypass the temp switch. We just want ti to go on when switched on, and off when switched off.
We are moving next year, because of financial problems and want to keep this as cheap as possible, hence me coming here to to figure this out.

It's a rotten situation, but I will say that if I don't feel comfortable doing it, I won't do it and we will call someone.

Thank you in advance.

NEW ISSUE AFTER REPAIR - SEE POST 14
 
OK, did some digging, and this is a Teledyne Lars Lite 2 heater, correct? I am going to assume this is a millivolt unit and if so you will need to first check the millivolt output of the powerpile in the pilot flame. It needs to be, ideally, 750 millivolts. as low as 400 sometimes will work but the higher the better. ion the sketch below is a simple diagram of the control circuit on your heater. you need to check for the voltage between terminals d and e with the pilot lit, and terminals e and f .



d and e will tell you if the powerpile is putting out sufficient voltage to run the gas valve and e and f will tell you if the safety circuit is complete or something is open. If you don't have voltage between e and f then something is wrong in the safety circuit and you will need to use an Ohm meter to figure out which one is the culprit.
It sounds like the temp switch is bypassed and that is not good as it is a safety switch and we will not ever condone bypassing safeties on this forum
 
It WAS bypassed, it was no longer from last year.
I'm getting 452millivolts between d & e. E & f give off a low voltage, but it would seem that d & e is the issue. Any quick cheap fixes?
 
Make sure the powerpile is fully engulfed in the pilot flame. You can also clean the powerpile with a scotch-brite pad. Make sure it is not hot when you do this. I forgot to tell you that the pump and heater needs to be running for you to check the volts across e & f as the water pressure switch needs to be closed and the air pressure switch if there is a fan needs to be closed as well. The voltage should be the same for both readings give or take a few millivolts. 450 is on the low end but, I have seen some light at that voltage. A new powerpile from a heating supply house will do the trick
 

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But you also might need a pilot assembly. if the flame is lazy and not strong, you will need the entire assembly and not just the powerpile.

To replace it, you would need to remove the entire burner tray.
 
Well, the pilot has a good blueish flame. Best I have seen it over the past few years.
I'm not real comfterble tempering the assembly, so we will be calling someone.
Any suggestions for the Brookfield,IL area?
 
1031982 said:
Well, the pilot has a good blueish flame. Best I have seen it over the past few years.
I'm not real comfterble tempering the assembly, so we will be calling someone.
Any suggestions for the Brookfield,IL area?
Click to expand...

Best to use Google to find someone or ask friends or neighbors that have pools.

Also, edit your info to add your location of Brookfield, IL. Helps down the road if you have certain questions.
 
Ok, I actually ended up fixing the issue. The Thermalpile was filthy, and after searching online, I found a good way to clean it. Everything was fine until now.

The heater doesn't seem to want to turn on (or stay on) all the time after flipping the switch back to "ON". The switch was replaced last year, but I don't know if that matters.
This still just the thermalpile that needs to be replaced?
 
Possibly. You need to check the voltage output from it with a volt/ohm meter to verify. I am not real big on replacing parts without knowing they need replacing. I was called in to fix a furnace last winter that the owners brother tried to fix by replacing almost all components. Turned out to be a loose wire on the thermostat. Best way to determine is to measure.

If you do want to change it, refer back to the picture of one I posted (post 9). See the threaded connector on it? That is what holds it into the housing/bracket. Remove that, slide it out, unhook the wires and reverse the process to put it back.
 

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