Another I bought a new house and it has a pool thread

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Dave9590

0
Apr 27, 2015
5
Duluth/GA
Hi all!

In my case I bought a house with a pool that is 20 years old and from what I can tell everything is original and needs to be replaced. As I see it I have two major renovations, resurfacing and replacing the pump/filter. I have done research on how to run the filter and what I need to do to maintain it. The problem is I think the motor is almost dead. Most of the time it runs fine (ie relatively quietly), but when I turn it off for anything longer than 10 minutes when I turn it back on it screeches something fierce for a few minutes until it warms back up again. I think the bearings are giving out on it and as a result I am afraid to turn it off and its been running 24/7 even though I have a timer. I only turn it off to clean the skimmers/filter etc.

I need help with the best way to replace the filter and pump. I would like to replace it all, pump, filter, valves, etc and I would like to go with a variable speed pump and possibly change from DE to cartridge, but I don't know what size of filter I need. Can anyone give me some recommendations given what I have now as to what I should get? Also, I assume I need to find a pool filter installer of some sort to do the wiring/pluming. Whats the best way to go about finding someone like that?

Some details:
- I live in Atlanta
- I've been told the pool is around 17,000 gallons
- The filter is a DE American Products Titan from what I can tell, but I have no idea how big it is in sq. ft.
- The pump is a single speed 1hp Century Centurion 220v
- The covers on the skimmers say Pentair if that helps
- The basket right before the pump says Ultra-Flo on it

20150427_171315.jpg20150427_171302.jpg20150409_174740.jpg

Thanks
Dave
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

I see no reason to replace everything. Is there a problem with the valves?
You could just replace the motor on the existing pump with a 2-speed motor. How much is your electrical cost? A VS pump may not make financial sense.

For the filter, I would suggest a minimum of 250 sqft cartridge, 48sqft DE or 24" diameter sand ... if you do not want to just keep what you have.

Have you ever done any PVC or electrical? It is not terribly hard to DIY. If not, you could check Craigslist, or talk to some pool stores for recommendations of installers.
 
I tend to think why replace it if it's working. When my single speed motor dies I'm going to do just what Jason suggests, get a two speed replacement.

I found this schematic "Replacement Parts for the Titan CM Molded Composite Material DE Filter by American Products" and I bet with a little comparing you can figure out what filter you have. The outer molded tanks parts show unavailable/obsolete but most of the parts that may wear are still showing available.

Stick around, learn and have the nicest pool in your area.
 
I too see no reason to replace what you have, at least not now, it seem to be in fair shape (compared to some we see, I would say it seems in great shape), All you likely need is a few replacement rubber seals, and maybe a 2 speed pump motor, since Atlanta is not known for insanely high electric rates I doubt a variable speed pump would ever pay for itself. Pump motors are easy to change, anyone that can change out a light switch or an electrical breaker should have no problem swapping out a pump motor. (there are numerous youtube videos on the subject, and most pumps are very similar in how things are mounted)

Ike
 
Thanks for the welcome. This site is a wealth of knowledge fore sure.

To answer some of your questions, one of the Jandy valves is locked up and I cant move it. Even if I loosen the twisty thing on top. The filter basket before the pump and the connection coming out of the pump leak slowly. I think it costs me about $100 a month, but again its always on. Also, when I turn the pump on and off the top of the filter flexes. The paint is almost worn off and the fiberglass is starting to show. It concerns me when the top where the pressure gauge moves up an inch or two when the pressure inside rises to 20psi which is what it is when the filter is totally clean.

I think I want to hire someone. 220v scares me and I have never done PVC.

What diameter PVC do you think I have? How do I find out?

Things I have replaced so far:
- The pressure gauge on the filter.
- Two of the Jandy valve auto lubricating things (black knobs on the pictures) because it fell off.
- The "power filter" because it was cracked. (Clear jar looking thing in front)
- The O-ring on the filter basket in front of the pump and it still leaks even with tons of lubricant on it.
- The big hex nut drain plug on the bottom of the filter (it leaked as well)
 
220V is not really any more dangerous than 110V, but if you are not comfortable, certainly best to hire it out.

Why does the pipe size matter? Just measure the diameter and you can find dimensions online. Likes like 1.5" pipe to me though.

It does kind of sound like there are enough problems to start over.

You could change the pressure side cleaner into a suction cleaner if that was desired, while replumbing everything.
 
How hard is the PVC plumbing to do? I wanted to know the size so I can make sure I buy a pump with that size inlet right?

I love your idea about changing from pressure side to suction side. Either way I am going to get rid of the power filter thing. Unless I need to keep that for some reason...
 
The power filter is only needed for your pressure cleaner since the water needs to be filtered before clogging up the cleaner.

You can just use adapters to switch the pipe size to whatever you need.
 
I don't have a cleaner so thats a great option for me. There seems to be more options with a suction site cleaner.

So I shouldn't really try to match the pipe diameter with the pump inlet size? That wont cause a problem?

I was looking at this pump. Is this overkill with it being 3hp and I have 1hp now? Could it blow it up? Would a 3hp pump operate more efficiently at 30% compared to a 1hp pump running full on all the time?

http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-011018-IntelliFlo-Performance-Horsepower/dp/B007E4VWNO

Ultimately I am looking for a VS pump and a filter to match to it so I don't to worry about it for another 20 years. I want to get it all settled and then resurface the pool later on this year.
 
PVC pipe is fairly easy to work with, you just have to work fast once you start putting a connection together as the glue will set within 1-2 seconds so you don't get much working time to get your angle right on elbows, etc.

Ike

p.s. I don't like the way your plumbing is set up, way too compact, no room to splice in fixes, all glue together no screw in fittings. Perfect example of a pool builder compact disposable pad layout, one thing goes wrong and you throw out several hundred dollars worth of valves.
 

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That big VS pump is WAY overkill for your needs. Likely a 2-speed pump is the most economical for you since I do not think your power costs are high. Or look at the smaller VS pumps (Superflo, Max-flo, Super Pump).
 
As Jason said filter choice is a very individual thing, I personally like my Hayward EC-75 perflex DE filter, but I know there are members on here that hate them, and they do have a point. Namely that the perflex filters do not stand abuse, you MUST bump or clean them when the pressure rises by about 10 psi or else damage can occur, but as long as you do that they are great. On the topic of a pump, if you are looking at variable speed pumps, consider the smaller Hayward VS pumps like the MaxFlo-VS, the only down side is they don't integrate well with automation systems like the larger VS pumps do.
 
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