Raypack 407A

[socalowner]

I have a Raypack 407A heater that will fire up and run for a few minutes then it stops and displays FAN. Then it does not restart unless by physically turning on/off or by using my control system. Both methods fire up the heater for a few minutes and then same result as above. It is grounded and was working properly for several years.

Any ideas?

 

[JasonLion]

The most likely possibility is that somewhere like the combustion chamber or the flue has gotten clogged with debris, quite possibly from rodents nesting in the heater over the winter. It is also possible that the fan is broken/breaking, but that is much less likely.

 

[socalowner]

Combustion Chamber and Flue are clear. The filter is clean. The heater works perfectly for a period of time (5-20 minutes) and then randomly turns off (the combustion, not actual power) while displaying "FAN" only. It does this on low and high pump speed. Once off, it does not turn on again.

I've reviewed the manual and it doesn't address the exact problem. Online, I've found similar posts that suggest the Air Pressure switch is not working or faulty. In your experience, would the Air Pressure switch cause this problem?

 

[Pool Clown]

Does this heater have a D2 power vent? It is an optional accessory to the heater (a fan). It "pulls" the exhaust out of the heater and of course it makes noise. So you can tell fairly easily if you have one or not. If you do have one, the air flow switch or the wiring to it is having an issue, or there is some sort of an obstruction like stated above, but that wouldn't necessarily explain the on again, off again operation.

If you don't have a D2, it gets tricky. The fact that it works for a while then quits tells me that it could be an expansion / contraction issue. Vent loop (orange wire) on board plug makes connection and satisfies vent switch loop when cool or cold, but when the heater has been operating for a while and heats up the board, connection is lost and wont re-fire. Maybe a broken trace on the board (worst case), or a wire partially eaten through vent loop on plug to board.

There is another diagnostic, if the display is alternating between FAN and TAb. But i wont bore you with that since you have been running ok in the past.

Either way, good luck.

 

[ps0303]

If you don't have a power vent on this unit, it's a bad PC board controller.

 

[socalowner]

I don't have a power vent. Is this the "PC board controller": http://www.amazon.com/Raypak-013464F-Control-Replacement-Digital/dp/B00C7UG3O8

The manual does state to replace the board with my specific issues. However, I'd rather not spend $250 if it could be another issue. Thx

- - - Updated - - -

Also, do you have any idea what component on the board typically goes bad? My father is an electronic/mechanical engineer and may be able to repair/replace any component on existing board................

 

[Pool Clown]

Is this the "PC board controller": http://www.amazon.com/Raypak-013464F-Control-Replacement-Digital/dp/B00C7UG3O8

The manual does state to replace the board with my specific issues. However, I'd rather not spend $250 if it could be another issue. Thx

- - - Updated - - -

Also, do you have any idea what component on the board typically goes bad? My father is an electronic/mechanical engineer and may be able to repair/replace any component on existing board................

That is the board.
If you are loosing sleep over weather or not to buy, a call to Raypak to confirm the cause may help.
Best advice would be to have your father look the board over under magnifier.

 

[socalowner]

Agreed, I previously removed but couldn't see any obvious issues. Thank you very much for the input.

 

[socalowner]

I replaced the PC board and still have the same issue...............any other thoughts?

 

[Pool Clown]

Vent loop (orange wire) on board plug makes connection and satisfies vent switch loop.

If still getting FAN error, both boards are not getting continuity between the two pins corresponding to both ends of the orange wire. Bad plug? Bad orange wire connection to the plug? Bad orange wire? There isn't much more. I suppose first thing would be to make sure the wires are in the plug all the way. Push the orange wire ends into the plug (while its off the board) and note their position within the plug. Then push the plug onto the board and see if the ends got pushed out of the plug at all.

 

[socalowner]

All orange wires appear to be fine. Tested as directed. The new board display doesn't show FAN when it shuts off, now it simply shuts off and displays SPARK while attempting to light. It will not reignite unless I turn off the heater and let it rest for a few minutes. Seems like the heater runs for approximately 6-8 minutes and increase spa temp by 6-8 degrees everytime before shutting off.

 

[ps0303]

I see you have a control system, yes? If it is wired into the heater, I would take the heater out of remote mode and see if it operates manually.

Can you hear the sparking of the heater?

How old is this unit?

How does it look inside where the burners and ignitor are located?

 

[socalowner]

I've run the heater with remote off and have the same result. First start up is immediate but when it shuts off after 5 minutes, I can hear the sparking. Date code on old PC board is 2005. Burners and igniter don't look rusted or corroded as far as I can tell.

At this point, Im probably just going to pay $100 to have a technician diagnose the problem.

 

[ps0303]

And the green ground wire down by the ignitor is connected securely?

 

[Pool Clown]

My guess is you are loosing flame rectification.

 

[socalowner]

The ground wire by starter was secure, but the plate it was screwed into was heavily corroded with rust. I cleaned to bare metal and it appears the issue is resolved. Seems like the board is a common issue with these heaters. I may just leave the new one installed and not return it. Thanks for all the help.