Shocking pool turns water milky white

Aug 24, 2014
20
Tampa, Fl
Every time I shock my pool, the water immediately turns milky white and cloudy. The pool guy says its normal and is some how related to the Chlorine (sodium based) interacting with the Super Metal Control that we add every week and that its a good thing - keeps scale from forming? I am not quite sure, I am new to pools so I am just learning. It seems odd though and it usually takes 48 hours for the filter to clean it all up. The water goes from crystal clear to milky cloudy. All test readings are normal before.
Any thoughts on this - i think I should be able to add chlorine without it clouding up my pool. Thx!
 
I would ask how are you testing and what test kit are you using?

What are your test readings?

FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Following our recommended methods we never "shock" our pools, but maintain the correct amount of chlorine in it all the time.
 
Welcome, Jnp!
If you're in learning mode, I hope you enjoy pool school as it will help you have a trouble free pool. I can't tell from your post how you're presently caring for your pool.

While we normally ask for someone to post test readings to assist in solving mysteries, there are generally two things that cause white, cloudy water at shock/slam levels...dead algae that turns white, or, as you mentioned, calcium combining with sequestered metals. In either case, since it clears, the temporary cloudiness not actually concerning in your case.

What might be concerning is that it does sound like you "shock" a lot, which suggests that you may not presently be following TFP pool care methods (forgive me if this is incorrect ;)

If you were to consider following the TFP method of pool maintenance, I think you'd find you don't have to shock at all, and enjoy your pool with fewer headaches.

As you will learn in pool school, it starts with testing with a good test kit, then maintaining your sanitation with liquid chlorine to avoid high CYA (stabilizer) levels from pucks or dichlor. While some CYA is needed to protect chlorine from sunlight, pucks over time add too much, so eventually, users are always riding a nascent algae bloom and start a cycle of frequent shocking, since it takes more and more chlorine to work when the CYA is high.

So, if you're already TFP, its most likely that the cloudiness is just the effect of oxidization on the sequestered metals -- no worries...just observe your calcium levels for optimal range.

If you're not using TFP and are using bags of shock, (eg cal hypo, which will more readily combine with sequestered metals if you already have a high/saturated calcium level), then you might wish to consider learning about an approach that doesn't rely on constant or haphazard shocking here in pool school.

I'm on a well and have metals and am really grateful that I no longer have to shock/slam at all since learning TFP. It was more than worth the learning curve!

Best wishes for a trouble-free pool!
 
Great post Swampwoman! Poolschool set me straight so I can't overstress how important it is to study that, along with investing in a good test kit. I've been following the TFP principles since last spring and haven't looked back. And no more dealing with the pool store!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well, I guess I need to go to pool school. Local pool co has me using 3 pucks weekly, use of liquid chlorine once a week to shock the pool, weekly use of All in One Algacide, and Super Metal control. They test the water and recommend Alalinity increaser and Calcium for Calcium hardness on when the test readings so indicate. My CYA seems to be on the upper end - 60 to 80 range. The milky condition the about 2 days to filter out, cleaning the filter daily. It doesn't seem to matter if one of the readings are a little of or all within range, the water gets cloudy with the liquied chlorine. My chlorine readings before I shock are generally FC 2.0 o4 3.0. The pool is used spraringly and the CCis almost always zero (which i have read means no need to shock if cc=0). T
hanks for the comments, I'll start pool school. Any other thoughts?
BTW - when you use bleach, do you use normal chlorox laundry bleach or something else??
 
Normal Clorox works, but generic from WalMart is less expensive. Being in Tampa higher concentration 10/12.5% is usually available at pool stores.

2 - 3 FC levels is way too low for your CYA.

You are correct, Pool School for you. Don't forget, you need one of the recommended test kits as pool store testing has been found to be lacking.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
No I am not testing my own water - pinch a penny tests it for free. I understand that I need to buy my own test kit and test it more frequently. Why do you ask with respect to this problem? Just trying to learn.
as Jason points out, free pool store testing is worth what you pay for it. If you read through old posts on this site you will be amazed at the number of folks who were shocked when they started testing themselves with a quality test kit. Using me as an example two,different pool stores both told me my CYA was in the 80 - 100 range. When I got my test kit I discovered it was well over 200.
 
If you spend the money on the TF 100, I promise you will not regret it! It is easy to use and understand. I would only add chlorine/ bleach to shock. I will never again add shock bags to my pool. Please don't get down about asking for help. These guys and gals know what they are talking about and if you follow exactly as they recommend it works!
 
One of the test kits recommended here is a great investment. You get a lot for your money with the TF-100. Last year I struggled greatly with my pool because my money was really tight and I couldn't come up with the extra money for the test kit. I ended up having to almost completely drain my 18ft round AGP to ever get it near right and it still stayed a tad cloudy all year. Finally managed to get the test kit and it has made my life so much simpler these past few days since my cover came off a bit in the winter and I got leaves and an algae outbreak.
 
I took over my pool maintenance about a year ago. Learned how to regulate and control during the summer and then during the winter, as they are different animals. Also learned and can attest to the pool store testing issues and advice. Asked a lot of questions, read a lot, asked more questions, read more, etc.

So read, ask questions, take it step-wise and test and "teach" yourself. You'll pretty quickly get the hang of it and find your water looks much better than you ever thought possible.
 
So i learend today that if i add a quart of acid to the pool it clears the white milky condition that is created when I add the liquid chlorine. Not sure why, the pool store guy said that it would work so I tried it and it worked. The pool was clear within 30 minutes whereas it would have taken 2 days to filter the milky condition out. Any thoughts on that?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.