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Thread: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

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    Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    Can Durock be used rather than Hardibacker?

    I am in the planning/design phase of my outdoor kitchen and I never see Hardibacker in any of the box stores in my area, however I do see Durock. If Durock has the same structural integrity as Hardibacker, couldn't that be used instead and then you could apply cultured stone or what have you without the need for a scratch coat?

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    Join Date
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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    I would think it would be ok to use, but there are some drawbacks in using this material over HB.

    1) It is MUCH more difficult to score and snap. I would suggest using a masonry(diamond) blade for the big cuts, and a jigsaw with a carbide blade for tight cuts.
    2) Available thickness. I have never seen it in a thickness less than 1/2". Not saying you couldn't use 1/2" throughout, just harder to handle/more expensive.
    3) When I used it on a shower enclosure remodel, it didn't seem to take the screws as well as HB. They seemed to not want to "flush out", and stuck out above the surface a lot more. When I used HB on my BBQ build, the screws sank even with the surface, making the tile installation on the top much more level/even.
    4) Durock "flakes" much more along the cut edge. It has the netting to hold it together, but the finished edge isn't as clean as with HB.
    5) If curves are part of your design, I do not know how Durock responds to the tried-and-true "soak and bend" method of getting the board to conform to your framing.. May or may not be an issue with your build.

    Whatever material you choose, I would HIGHLY recommend an application of concrete glue, let tack, then a 1/4" to 1/2" application of a scratchcoat before your stone. Just good insurance.

    FWIW!! C-Ya!!

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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    Thanks MCR500! That is the kind of insight I was looking for. I have used Durock indoors in a bathroom before, so I am familiar with the texture and other pitfalls you mention. I do not have any experience with HB though, so it is difficult for me to understand the differences in texture, strength, etc in order to do a decent cost/benefit analysis. Bending will not be an issue as the plan I am currently "noodling" on is a straight shot. Just trying to find as much information as I can on the web before I get started to try to mitigate as many of those "man, I wish I thought of that earlier" moments.

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    DrDave's Avatar
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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    I'm with mcr500 on this.
    If you can find 1/4" HB, use this for your sides. There are no good arguments for using 1/2" on the sides if you have framed properly.
    DrDave
    http://plansbyjorde.tripod.com
    Necessity is the Mother of Invention

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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    I'm in very much the same situation, but am unfamiliar with "concrete glue". Anyone care to elaborate?

    _mike

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    DrDave's Avatar
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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    Quote Originally Posted by nibeck
    I'm in very much the same situation, but am unfamiliar with "concrete glue". Anyone care to elaborate?

    _mike
    There is not much to say that has not been stated several times on this forum.
    Get a gallon of it and brush & or roll it on your Hardie Backer just before you stucco. It allows the stucco to bond to the HB. All you need is a single tinted coat, no more than 1/8" average thickness stucco. With tinted stucco there is no need to paint ever.
    8) I did mine 10 years ago and it still looks new today.
    DrDave
    http://plansbyjorde.tripod.com
    Necessity is the Mother of Invention

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Durock rather than Hardibacker?

    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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