Is my TA OK?

[gablueliner]

This morning my level tested like this:
TA 90
pH 7.6
FC 3.5
CH 100
CYA 40
Temp 74

My question...using the TFP app to do my logs, the LSI says my pool water is corrosive. If I adjust the TA to read 110 the LSI says it's all balanced. Should I raise my TA to 110? For several days I have been checking the levels and the TS and pH have remained unchanged.

 

[tim5055]

Corrosive water applies to plaster/gunfire pools. Don't worry about it for now.

The thing that concerns me more is the frog in your signature. Are you still using it? The metals it is putting in your water are a bigger problem due to the possibility of staining as well as the expense.

 

[duraleigh]

Virtually no one here uses LSI as a meaningful parameter. Keeping your parameters within the values we suggest will result in a troublefree, non-scaling pool and you can disregard LSI.....we do.

 

[gablueliner]

Corrosive water applies to plaster/gunfire pools. Don't worry about it for now.

The thing that concerns me more is the frog in your signature. Are you still using it? The metals it is putting in your water are a bigger problem due to the possibility of staining as well as the expense.

I actually do a hybrid if you want to call it that. I use bleach for shock, baking soda to raise the TA, MA to lower the pH, and trichlor 1" tabs that I put into a converted frog PAC. I do use the twice a year mineral pack which allows for lower chlorine levels. I put algaecide in only once at the beginning of the season.

 

[gablueliner]

Virtually no one here uses LSI as a meaningful parameter. Keeping your parameters within the values we suggest will result in a troublefree, non-scaling pool and you can disregard LSI.....we do.

So on the Pool Pal app, it suggests a TA of 100-120. I should shoot to keep my TA at 110?

 

[tim5055]

LYou are trying to mix/match advice from multiple sources. We do not advocate minerals or algecides to lower recommended FC levels. The only calculator that follows our recommendations is the Pool Math (link above).

Obviously it's your pool and how you decide to take care of it is up to you. The methods we teach have worked in thousands of pools and save money by eliminating unnecessary purchases like algecides and minerals.

Our recommended levels are here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels

The theory and science is taught in Pool School (link above). TA is the parameter we worry about the least and generally don't recommend additions to adjust it unless your pH is moving rapidly.

 

[gablueliner]

Tim, I agree on the money savings. My problem is staying on top of checking daily and adding the bleach. I just don't always have time to do it like it should be done...but I will give it another shot. Thanks for the advice. I found what I was looking for in one of the links.

 

[tim5055]

Tim, I agree on the money savings. My problem is staying on top of checking daily and adding the bleach. I just don't always have time to do it like it should be done...but I will give it another shot. Thanks for the advice. I found what I was looking for in one of the links.

I'm not that far fom you and once you get the feel for your pool you maynot need to check daily.

I do check at least three or four times a week, but my chlorine is automated by way of a Stenner Pump.

 

[gablueliner]

Interesting reading on the Stenner pump. I may have to look into it.

 

[tim5055]

Interesting reading on the Stenner pump. I may have to look into it.

It has made my life easier. Today I happened to be in WalMart so I picked up 8 gallons of 8.25% bleach. That went into my tank so I'm covered for chlorine for just shy of a month.

If in my testing I find I'm a little shy I just add manually and turn up the % on the pump. I will keep having to slowly turn it up as the summer arrives, then start turning it down in the fall. I still test, but not every day